---
product_id: 13018341
title: "Dorman 917-107 Exhaust Manifold Clamp Repair Compatible with Select Models (OE FIX)"
brand: "dorman"
price: "392.78 DT"
currency: TND
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 13
category: "Dorman"
url: https://www.desertcart.tn/products/13018341-dorman-917-107-exhaust-manifold-clamp-repair-compatible-with-select
store_origin: TN
region: Tunisia
---

# Complete repair kit included Saves hours of labor Precision fit for GM & Isuzu Dorman 917-107 Exhaust Manifold Clamp Repair Compatible with Select Models (OE FIX)

**Brand:** dorman
**Price:** 392.78 DT
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 🛠️ Fix the tick, save the day—your LS engine’s new best friend!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Dorman 917-107 Exhaust Manifold Clamp Repair Compatible with Select Models (OE FIX) by dorman
- **How much does it cost?** 392.78 DT with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.tn](https://www.desertcart.tn/products/13018341-dorman-917-107-exhaust-manifold-clamp-repair-compatible-with-select)

## Best For

- dorman enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted dorman brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Time-Saving OE FIX:** Skip the stud extraction—seal broken exhaust manifold fasteners in minutes, not hours.
- • **All-Inclusive Repair Kit:** Includes clamp and fasteners for a secure, professional-grade repair without extra trips to the store.
- • **Tailored Fit for Select GM & Isuzu:** Engineered specifically for front right or rear left manifolds on vehicles without EGR valves—guaranteed compatibility.
- • **Durable High Carbon Steel Construction:** Built to withstand extreme engine heat and vibration, ensuring long-lasting performance.
- • **Trusted Quality with Lifetime Warranty:** Backed by over a century of automotive expertise and a limited lifetime warranty for peace of mind.

## Overview

The Dorman 917-107 Exhaust Manifold Clamp Repair is a high-carbon steel clamp designed to quickly and securely seal broken exhaust manifold fasteners on select GM and Isuzu vehicles. This OE FIX solution eliminates the need for costly stud extraction or cylinder head removal, saving significant labor time. The kit includes all necessary fasteners and fits specific front right or rear left manifold locations on vehicles without EGR valves. Backed by a limited lifetime warranty and trusted automotive expertise, it’s the go-to fix for common LS engine exhaust leaks.

## Description

When an exhaust manifold fastener breaks on certain General Motors and Isuzu vehicles, repairing it conventionally usually requires significant labor, up to and including removing the cylinder head. This Dorman OE FIX repair clamp saves time by creating a seal without needing to extract the broken stud.

Review: Good old Chevy tick its gone! Silverado 2500 HD - Well, you are reading this is probably because your Chevy sounds like a Chevy i.e. the classic header tick tick tick. I stalled this to a 2009 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD but it will fit basically any LS engine (5.3, 6.0, 6.2 etc). Prior to my manifold head bolts sheering off, I did not know this is actually a very common problem for LS engines... Way to go Chevy, have a known problem and still use crap manifold bolts. Its so common that Dorman has this band aid fix to save you hundreds fixing. FIRST, I want to clarify the part numbers and locations to be installed because some of the reviews are misleading. The are 2 different brackets to be used depending on which of your manifold bolt heads sheared off. Dorman 917-107 (This product) - Locations to be installed is for either the drivers side rear or passengers side front. Dorman 917-142 (looks completely different) - Locations to be installed is either the driver side rear or passengers side front. The reason is because the heads are basically the same but rotated 180 degrees. So be sure you get the correct part. Top bolt: Okay, now to the installation. I had BOTH rear manifold bold head sheered off, so I needed both part numbers mentioned above. But this is the installation for the drivers side rear (917-107). As you will read from other reviews, it is in fact a pain in the butt. The heads are so close to the fire wall I was left with some scratched up knuckles from holding the fire was back to try to get the top bolt threaded. Note used some anti seize on the bolts. Anyways, you do want to start with the top bolt and come from the top of the engine. My truck (2009 Silverado 2500HD), already had a bolt with a ground strap attached to it (I believe that one was a 14mm, the bolts for this kit is a 9/16"). I removed that bolt (easy part) then you have to do a dance of holding the bracket with the ground strap, pushing the fire wall back and trying to find the hole (Come on, we've all been there) for the top bolt. It will depend on what vehicle you are working on as to where to position your body, but for my applicable I was basically sitting in the spare battery tray (where the second battery would go for a Duramax diesel). I have also seen pictures of some people laying on top of the engine. Anyways, it took my on the order of 10-15 minutes of doing this dance to finally get the treads started on the top bolt (by hand, no tools yet). I then started to tighten the bolt using a 9/16" ratcheting wrench (This tool is pretty key in saving time). There is not enough room with the bracket, bolt and fire wall to fit a socket wrench down there, so a normal box wrench is really you only choice and having a ratcheting one makes this WAY easier than a standard box wrench that you would have to line up basically a 1/8th of a turn because that is all the room you have. If you don't have a ratcheting 9/16" wrench, you are on desertcart... Add it to your cart. I did not tighten it all the way, you want to leave it loose to the bracket is still kinda dangling for the bottom bolt. Thankfully with the top bolt threaded in, it does align the bottom hole of the bracket to the proper mounting position for the bottom bolt. Bottom bolt: I have head mixed ways of getting to the bottom bolt, some come from the top others the bottom. For my application there was absolutely no way to get at it from the top, so I went from the bottom. If you have beef cake arms, I really don't know how you will do it, but I have pretty slim arms and had just enough arm length to wedge it between the exhaust down pipe and torsion spring. Its a very awkward position, but I was able to get the bolt threaded. I then used a 9/16" socket with 2 swivels and about 24" worth of extensions to tighten the bolt because the location is to hard to get to... To confirm your thoughts, YES it did look sketchy but it works. There is no way to get a toque wrench either bolts, so get them pretty snug but don't reef on them. If you strip the threads or sheer the bolt then you have just bought yourself into a head repair, which is the whole reason to buy this band aid fix anyways. After the bottom one was snug, I went back to the top bolt and snugged that one down with the ratcheting wrench. Lastly the final bolt you want to use some high temp loctite and torque to spec (I think it was like 18 lbs-ft). That one is simple enough and straight forward. After I completed both sides and started the truck it was significantly better, but I gave and extra one flat turn on the bolt to the manifolds past the recommended torque just to give it a little extra sealing. The whole process took about an hour. Tick tick tick is gone so the brackets do work. The brackets really are more expensive than they should be (around $30), but it sure beats the price of removing the head.
Review: Pain to install, but worth it in the end! - Let me start by saying this. I am a full time mechanic with access to lifts to work on my vehicles on my off time. I installed this bracket with use of said lift. And even that was not easy. I also have smaller hands, and I had trouble starting the damn bolts haha. The way I did it was this: after fiddle farting with the bolt for over 20 mins and my arm cramping I figured there had to be a better way. I stared at it for a good five mins before I got the game plan. Yes, I did remove the front driveshaft to give me a few extra inches but I just removed it from the front axle, not the t case which was fine, so I would say start there to give your arm the room to reach up to the spot. I then grabbed a smaller bolt and put that thru the top hole on the bracket and then put it into the hole in the cylinder head to kinda support the bracket so I can just get the bolt on the bottom to start. This is the tricky part. Since the bolt is just flat cut, you have to be dead buts straight when you thread it in. After about another 15 mins of trying I finally got it started. I snugged that bolt down just enough to hold the bracket still, lowered the truck and climbed ontop of the motor and reached down and removed my support bolt and threaded the top bolt in. Same scenario with the top bolt but since the bottom was already started, it wasn't as much of a fight. Once you get those ran down, I used a flex wrench and tightened them down nice and good. Then I put the top manifold bolt in, which was simple, and ran it down against the manifold, and boom, done. Started the truck and no more ticks. It is a great option vs 1500 to have the studs replaced and works fine. Super cheap solution if your willing to cuss, cramp and fight to get it done. Overall it was a easy install, but you have to put in some effort. Took me about 45 mins to install but I love to take my time. Hope this helps!

## Features

- Saves time - When an exhaust manifold fastener breaks, this exhaust manifold repair clamp saves time by creating a seal without needing to extract the broken stud
- Location-specific - engineered to fit the exhaust manifold on specified GM and Isuzu vehicles on the front right on vehicles without EGR valve, or rear left
- Complete kit - includes clamp and fasteners for a thorough, secure repair
- Trustworthy quality - backed by a team of product experts in the United States and more than a century of automotive experience
- Ensure fit - to make sure this part fits your exact vehicle, input your make, model and trim level into the garage tool

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B00GHT9L4O |
| Brand | Dorman |
| Brand Name | Dorman |
| Color | Black |
| Customer Reviews | 4.8 out of 5 stars 1,109 Reviews |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00019495782513 |
| Included Components | Dorman - EXHAUST COMPONENTS |
| Item Dimensions | 3.5 x 4 x 1.5 inches |
| Item Part Number | 917-107 |
| Item Type Name | Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head Repair Clamp for Select Models (OE FIX) |
| Item Weight | 1.06 Pounds |
| Item dimensions L x W x H | 3.5 x 4 x 1.5 inches |
| Manufacturer | Dorman Products |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 917-107 |
| Manufacturer Warranty Description | Limited Lifetime Warranty |
| Material | High Carbon Steel |
| Material Type | High Carbon Steel |
| Model Number | 11518860 |
| Part Interchange Info | 11518860 |
| Style | Modern |
| Style Name | Modern |
| UPC | 019495782513 |
| Unit Count | 1.0 Count |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** Dorman
- **Item dimensions L x W x H:** 3.5 x 4 x 1.5 inches
- **Color:** Black
- **Style:** Modern
- **Item Weight:** 1.06 Pounds
- **UPC:** 019495782513
- **Global Trade Identification Number:** 00019495782513
- **Manufacturer:** Dorman Products

## Images

![Dorman 917-107 Exhaust Manifold Clamp Repair Compatible with Select Models (OE FIX) - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/91RZR7zRfyL.jpg)
![Dorman 917-107 Exhaust Manifold Clamp Repair Compatible with Select Models (OE FIX) - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/91gNBiRwDkL.jpg)
![Dorman 917-107 Exhaust Manifold Clamp Repair Compatible with Select Models (OE FIX) - Image 3](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71eUtUXPsVL.jpg)

## Questions & Answers

**Q: Will this work on both sides of the engine on the rear?**
A: No, it works on the left rear, or on the right front for the 1999-up 4.8/5.3/6.0/6.2 V8 (the ones with the itty-bitty pretzel-stick 8mm exhaust bolts that snap off in the heads)

**Q: What mm wrench will I need to install**
A: The bolts have a 15mm head.

**Q: Will this fit a 99 f350 v10**
A: HiLooking at your question I would say you’re looking for a Ford 350 in one of those big V 10 motor’s. I do not know as I used it on a Chevy 350 Vortech which fit like a glove. Sorry

**Q: Will this fit a 2014 Chevy Silverado 5.3**
A: Yes it will fit a 2014 Silverado 5.3. Three of them go on within five minutes real quick the driver side rear took me like three hours but I figured out some tricks I can let you know if you don’t get it. Real tight quarters in that rear

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Good old Chevy tick its gone! Silverado 2500 HD
*by T***R on May 31, 2020*

Well, you are reading this is probably because your Chevy sounds like a Chevy i.e. the classic header tick tick tick. I stalled this to a 2009 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD but it will fit basically any LS engine (5.3, 6.0, 6.2 etc). Prior to my manifold head bolts sheering off, I did not know this is actually a very common problem for LS engines... Way to go Chevy, have a known problem and still use crap manifold bolts. Its so common that Dorman has this band aid fix to save you hundreds fixing. FIRST, I want to clarify the part numbers and locations to be installed because some of the reviews are misleading. The are 2 different brackets to be used depending on which of your manifold bolt heads sheared off. Dorman 917-107 (This product) - Locations to be installed is for either the drivers side rear or passengers side front. Dorman 917-142 (looks completely different) - Locations to be installed is either the driver side rear or passengers side front. The reason is because the heads are basically the same but rotated 180 degrees. So be sure you get the correct part. Top bolt: Okay, now to the installation. I had BOTH rear manifold bold head sheered off, so I needed both part numbers mentioned above. But this is the installation for the drivers side rear (917-107). As you will read from other reviews, it is in fact a pain in the butt. The heads are so close to the fire wall I was left with some scratched up knuckles from holding the fire was back to try to get the top bolt threaded. Note used some anti seize on the bolts. Anyways, you do want to start with the top bolt and come from the top of the engine. My truck (2009 Silverado 2500HD), already had a bolt with a ground strap attached to it (I believe that one was a 14mm, the bolts for this kit is a 9/16"). I removed that bolt (easy part) then you have to do a dance of holding the bracket with the ground strap, pushing the fire wall back and trying to find the hole (Come on, we've all been there) for the top bolt. It will depend on what vehicle you are working on as to where to position your body, but for my applicable I was basically sitting in the spare battery tray (where the second battery would go for a Duramax diesel). I have also seen pictures of some people laying on top of the engine. Anyways, it took my on the order of 10-15 minutes of doing this dance to finally get the treads started on the top bolt (by hand, no tools yet). I then started to tighten the bolt using a 9/16" ratcheting wrench (This tool is pretty key in saving time). There is not enough room with the bracket, bolt and fire wall to fit a socket wrench down there, so a normal box wrench is really you only choice and having a ratcheting one makes this WAY easier than a standard box wrench that you would have to line up basically a 1/8th of a turn because that is all the room you have. If you don't have a ratcheting 9/16" wrench, you are on Amazon... Add it to your cart. I did not tighten it all the way, you want to leave it loose to the bracket is still kinda dangling for the bottom bolt. Thankfully with the top bolt threaded in, it does align the bottom hole of the bracket to the proper mounting position for the bottom bolt. Bottom bolt: I have head mixed ways of getting to the bottom bolt, some come from the top others the bottom. For my application there was absolutely no way to get at it from the top, so I went from the bottom. If you have beef cake arms, I really don't know how you will do it, but I have pretty slim arms and had just enough arm length to wedge it between the exhaust down pipe and torsion spring. Its a very awkward position, but I was able to get the bolt threaded. I then used a 9/16" socket with 2 swivels and about 24" worth of extensions to tighten the bolt because the location is to hard to get to... To confirm your thoughts, YES it did look sketchy but it works. There is no way to get a toque wrench either bolts, so get them pretty snug but don't reef on them. If you strip the threads or sheer the bolt then you have just bought yourself into a head repair, which is the whole reason to buy this band aid fix anyways. After the bottom one was snug, I went back to the top bolt and snugged that one down with the ratcheting wrench. Lastly the final bolt you want to use some high temp loctite and torque to spec (I think it was like 18 lbs-ft). That one is simple enough and straight forward. After I completed both sides and started the truck it was significantly better, but I gave and extra one flat turn on the bolt to the manifolds past the recommended torque just to give it a little extra sealing. The whole process took about an hour. Tick tick tick is gone so the brackets do work. The brackets really are more expensive than they should be (around $30), but it sure beats the price of removing the head.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Pain to install, but worth it in the end!
*by M***E on April 27, 2023*

Let me start by saying this. I am a full time mechanic with access to lifts to work on my vehicles on my off time. I installed this bracket with use of said lift. And even that was not easy. I also have smaller hands, and I had trouble starting the damn bolts haha. The way I did it was this: after fiddle farting with the bolt for over 20 mins and my arm cramping I figured there had to be a better way. I stared at it for a good five mins before I got the game plan. Yes, I did remove the front driveshaft to give me a few extra inches but I just removed it from the front axle, not the t case which was fine, so I would say start there to give your arm the room to reach up to the spot. I then grabbed a smaller bolt and put that thru the top hole on the bracket and then put it into the hole in the cylinder head to kinda support the bracket so I can just get the bolt on the bottom to start. This is the tricky part. Since the bolt is just flat cut, you have to be dead buts straight when you thread it in. After about another 15 mins of trying I finally got it started. I snugged that bolt down just enough to hold the bracket still, lowered the truck and climbed ontop of the motor and reached down and removed my support bolt and threaded the top bolt in. Same scenario with the top bolt but since the bottom was already started, it wasn't as much of a fight. Once you get those ran down, I used a flex wrench and tightened them down nice and good. Then I put the top manifold bolt in, which was simple, and ran it down against the manifold, and boom, done. Started the truck and no more ticks. It is a great option vs 1500 to have the studs replaced and works fine. Super cheap solution if your willing to cuss, cramp and fight to get it done. Overall it was a easy install, but you have to put in some effort. Took me about 45 mins to install but I love to take my time. Hope this helps!

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Manifold bracket for 2004 chevy silverado 2500hd
*by A***R on March 20, 2026*

Works amazing and is still holding. Definitely recommend. Not as hard to install as i originally expected.

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*Product available on Desertcart Tunisia*
*Store origin: TN*
*Last updated: 2026-07-21*