---
product_id: 173860599
title: "[Gulfcoast Robotics] All Metal Hotend Conversion Kit - Polished Titanium Heatbreak for Creality Ender 3 Pro and V2, Ender 5 Pro and Plus and CR10 3D Printers"
brand: "gulfcoast robotics"
price: "12.25 DT"
currency: TND
in_stock: false
reviews_count: 8
url: https://www.desertcart.tn/products/173860599-gulfcoast-robotics-all-metal-hotend-conversion-kit-polished-titanium-heatbreak
store_origin: TN
region: Tunisia
---

# Polished titanium heatbreak reduces heat creep Silicone sock for faster heat-up & stable temps All-metal drop-in upgrade [Gulfcoast Robotics] All Metal Hotend Conversion Kit - Polished Titanium Heatbreak for Creality Ender 3 Pro and V2, Ender 5 Pro and Plus and CR10 3D Printers

**Brand:** gulfcoast robotics
**Price:** 12.25 DT
**Availability:** ❌ Out of Stock

## Summary

> 🔥 Elevate your 3D printing game with titanium precision!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** [Gulfcoast Robotics] All Metal Hotend Conversion Kit - Polished Titanium Heatbreak for Creality Ender 3 Pro and V2, Ender 5 Pro and Plus and CR10 3D Printers by gulfcoast robotics
- **How much does it cost?** 12.25 DT with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Currently out of stock
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.tn](https://www.desertcart.tn/products/173860599-gulfcoast-robotics-all-metal-hotend-conversion-kit-polished-titanium-heatbreak)

## Best For

- gulfcoast robotics enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted gulfcoast robotics brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Heat Creep? Not Here!:** Titanium heatbreak sharply separates hot & cold zones to prevent clogs and filament jams.
- • **Seamless Drop-In Upgrade:** Fits popular Creality models with zero mods—upgrade your printer in minutes.
- • **Future-Proof Compatibility:** Supports Ender 3 V2, Ender 5 Plus, CR10 series, and more—stay ahead with versatile hardware.
- • **Print Faster, Print Smarter:** Silicone sock insulation accelerates heat-up times and maintains consistent extrusion temps.
- • **Broaden Your Material Horizons:** Print high-temp filaments like ABS and PETG reliably at lower temps without PTFE breakdown.

## Overview

The Gulfcoast Robotics All Metal Hotend Conversion Kit is a precision-engineered, drop-in upgrade for Creality 3D printers, featuring a polished titanium heatbreak that drastically reduces heat creep and clogs. Its silicone sock insulation ensures faster heat-up and stable printing temperatures, enabling reliable printing of high-temp filaments like ABS and PETG at lower temperatures. Compatible with a wide range of Creality models, this kit transforms your printer’s performance with minimal installation effort.

## Description

The All Metal Hotend Conversion Kit from Gulfcoast Robotics is a drop-in upgrade for Creality 3D Printers such as the Ender 3, Ender 5 and CR10 series. As a direct replacement for the stock hardware, installation requires no additional parts or modifications to use. It bolts up to the original mounting plate, reusing the same heater cartridge and thermistor wiring for a quick 5 minute setup.The improved aluminum cooling block design offers better heat dissipation, removing the need for PTFE lining inside of the thermal barrier tube.Instead, a polished Titanium Alloy heatbreak is used to replace the traditional stainless steel, which has considerably lower thermal conductivity than its counterpart. This creates a sharply defined point of separation between hot and cold zones, minimizing the chance for heat creep and clogs.Compatible 3D PrintersEnder 2Ender 3 / PROEnder 3 V2Ender 3 MaxEnder 5 / Pro / PlusCR10 / 10SCR10 S4CR10 S5Tevo TornadoPackage Contents(1) All Metal Hotend for Creality 3D Printers(1) 0.4 mm MK8 Nozzle(1) Blue Silicone Sock(1) Bowden Collet

Review: Amazing Results, night and day difference to my stock Ender 3 hot end - Prior to getting this hot end, I was struggling with printing PETG and having it stick to my bed. After the first 2 good prints, I couldn't get another reliable print from that spool to save my life, and it was very frustrating. Whether it was not sticking to the bed, excessive stringing, not extruding enough, or a slew of other issues I was having, it was just being difficult. Finally, I was able to get that print to stick (on the stock hot end), but I had to be at 235C in order to do it! I took a look at my PTFE tube and it was charred and breaking down at that temp. SO I ordered this kit and was very impressed. Build quality is good. No instructions came with it, but their support team responded to an email without a few hours with a detailed guide and answered all my questions. (Installation is very straightforward, but I'm glad I asked the questions I did because I didn't know about the Heat to 250C then tighten the nozzle). My first print with the same material I was having issues with printed just about perfect. There was still minor stringing issues, but that can be dialed in with settings. What really shocked me is that this material, which the old hot end needed to be at 235C in order for a possibly-ok print printed fantastic at 215C! thats a whopping 20C lower, the stock hot-end would barely extrude properly at that temp. I'm curious how this compares to the TH3D titanium all-metal conversion, which just replaces the heat break on the stock hot end. I had that as well in case I didn't like this, but am so satisfied with this product I think I'll save the other one as a spare / if I decide to go to a dual-hot end setup.
Review: Works Nice and Cheaper than The Big-Name - This works nice and I am happy with it. I originally installed per instructions (at least I thought I did). After a few nice prints it started to leak. This only caused issues with PETG where a blob would build on the side of the nozzle, brown up, and then drop on the print. This lead to either a random brown blob on my print or a collision and layer shift. So... I took apart and cleaned/polished the heater block and heat break with a heat gun, wire bush, and file. Then I put the block and break back together, using a heat gun to get em hot and tightened up good. Then added a new nozzle, heated it all up and tightened good. Been running perfect since. Im saying to make extra sure that the break is tightened into the block with heat and then the nozzle into the block so it is all tight and there is no way anything can ooze past those threads.

## Features

- All Metal Hotend Conversion Kit is a drop-in installation for Creality 3D Printers
- Fits the Creality Ender-3, Ender-3 PRO, Ender-5, CR10, CR10S and more
- Polished Titanium Heatbreak prevents hotend clogs caused by heat creep
- Silicone sock insulates the heater block for faster heat-up times and stable temperatures
- Compatible with more recent models such as Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Max and Ender 5 Plus

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| Customer Reviews | 4.2 out of 5 stars 977 Reviews |

## Images

![[Gulfcoast Robotics] All Metal Hotend Conversion Kit - Polished Titanium Heatbreak for Creality Ender 3 Pro and V2, Ender 5 Pro and Plus and CR10 3D Printers - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/510fQT8OgyL.jpg)
![[Gulfcoast Robotics] All Metal Hotend Conversion Kit - Polished Titanium Heatbreak for Creality Ender 3 Pro and V2, Ender 5 Pro and Plus and CR10 3D Printers - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51X5DJ77EXL.jpg)
![[Gulfcoast Robotics] All Metal Hotend Conversion Kit - Polished Titanium Heatbreak for Creality Ender 3 Pro and V2, Ender 5 Pro and Plus and CR10 3D Printers - Image 3](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51vX8YwFVpL.jpg)
![[Gulfcoast Robotics] All Metal Hotend Conversion Kit - Polished Titanium Heatbreak for Creality Ender 3 Pro and V2, Ender 5 Pro and Plus and CR10 3D Printers - Image 4](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51PT+N5XvAL.jpg)
![[Gulfcoast Robotics] All Metal Hotend Conversion Kit - Polished Titanium Heatbreak for Creality Ender 3 Pro and V2, Ender 5 Pro and Plus and CR10 3D Printers - Image 5](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51v91IbS3JL.jpg)

## Questions & Answers

**Q: What is the maxium operating temperature? Or what is the print temp range?**
A: I have a CR-10S and the firmware will only go up to 260C. When I read up on the unit, it is rated up to 300C, but you need to change the firmware through Marlin. You will have to change the bed temperature throughout the firmware as well if you are going to print with Nylon or Polycarbonate.

**Q: Is this compatible as a direct replacement on the Ender 5 Plus? Any  issues with install and operation on that machine?**
A: I installed the GCR on my ender 5 Plus - Works great, printing over a year with it, no issues, no clogs, printing PLA+ and TPU. Retraction for PLA+ is set to 3.8mm & 35mm/sec. Getting another one for my 3 Pro.

**Q: Do the stock ender 3 silicone socks fit this?**
A: Yes, the heater block is the same size as the stock heater block

**Q: Does this come with new cables by any chance? I cut mine :(**
A: No, this is just metal parts kit with silicone sock. You can contact us directly and hopefully we can supply cable you need.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Amazing Results, night and day difference to my stock Ender 3 hot end
*by B***T on April 3, 2020*

Prior to getting this hot end, I was struggling with printing PETG and having it stick to my bed. After the first 2 good prints, I couldn't get another reliable print from that spool to save my life, and it was very frustrating. Whether it was not sticking to the bed, excessive stringing, not extruding enough, or a slew of other issues I was having, it was just being difficult. Finally, I was able to get that print to stick (on the stock hot end), but I had to be at 235C in order to do it! I took a look at my PTFE tube and it was charred and breaking down at that temp. SO I ordered this kit and was very impressed. Build quality is good. No instructions came with it, but their support team responded to an email without a few hours with a detailed guide and answered all my questions. (Installation is very straightforward, but I'm glad I asked the questions I did because I didn't know about the Heat to 250C then tighten the nozzle). My first print with the same material I was having issues with printed just about perfect. There was still minor stringing issues, but that can be dialed in with settings. What really shocked me is that this material, which the old hot end needed to be at 235C in order for a possibly-ok print printed fantastic at 215C! thats a whopping 20C lower, the stock hot-end would barely extrude properly at that temp. I'm curious how this compares to the TH3D titanium all-metal conversion, which just replaces the heat break on the stock hot end. I had that as well in case I didn't like this, but am so satisfied with this product I think I'll save the other one as a spare / if I decide to go to a dual-hot end setup.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Works Nice and Cheaper than The Big-Name
*by B***D on October 15, 2021*

This works nice and I am happy with it. I originally installed per instructions (at least I thought I did). After a few nice prints it started to leak. This only caused issues with PETG where a blob would build on the side of the nozzle, brown up, and then drop on the print. This lead to either a random brown blob on my print or a collision and layer shift. So... I took apart and cleaned/polished the heater block and heat break with a heat gun, wire bush, and file. Then I put the block and break back together, using a heat gun to get em hot and tightened up good. Then added a new nozzle, heated it all up and tightened good. Been running perfect since. Im saying to make extra sure that the break is tightened into the block with heat and then the nozzle into the block so it is all tight and there is no way anything can ooze past those threads.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ I have this on 4 of my 6 Ender 3 Pro printers and it is very good.
*by J***R on May 24, 2023*

When I started printing PETG, I used to get blocked hotend's all the time. The issues with using an all metal is to follow instructions on installing. If you want a good result, then understand how they work. 1/ You must get the heat break to fit tight against the nozzle to stop any leaks. 2/ When you change nozzles, NEVER allow the heat block to move as you remove the nozzle. This hot end does not have the two screws (that screw up the function of high temp printing). Hold it tight with a pair of good pliers or with a crescent wrench and only change nozzles at the full temperature. The printing results are extremely good with this. Along with normal maintenance of the printers. Before you print anything make sure all the screws are tight, and the rollers have a clean track, have no wiggle, and the rollers are snug against the tracks. When I start a print, I will always check the bed for having no movements, and runs very smooth on the rollers. If you find any movement up or down after snugging the rollers, then you have a bad roller bearing or two. After 300 prints the quality is still nearly perfect. The layers look really nice. And I print my PETG parts at 0.12 layer height and some at .36 width for extra strength. I print mostly PETG and have great results. For TPU you want the teflon tube in contact with the nozzle, because you need all the "slick" you can get to make it into the nozzle and make nice flexible prints. For that I use the "Hot End Fix" on Thingiverse.

## Frequently Bought Together

- [Gulfcoast Robotics] All Metal Hotend Conversion Kit - Polished Titanium Heatbreak for Creality Ender 3 Pro and V2, Ender 5 Pro and Plus and CR10 3D Printers
- [Gulfcoast Robotics] HEX EPCOS Thermistor Upgrade for Creality Ender 3 Ender 5 CR10 3D Printers 1 Meter Extension Cable
- Sovol PTFE Tube 2.5mm ID 4mm OD, Length 5M/16.4ft, with 2 Couplers & Tubing Cutter for Bambu lab X1/ X1C/ P1P/ P1S/ A1/ A1 Mini, Prusa MMU3, Creality K1 Max/Ender 3 V3 & Direct Drive 3D Printer, Gray

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*Product available on Desertcart Tunisia*
*Store origin: TN*
*Last updated: 2026-08-13*