---
product_id: 1871041
title: "Kenwood KSC-SW11 Compact Powered Enclosed Subwoofer for CAR"
brand: "jvc"
price: "223.88 DT"
currency: TND
in_stock: false
reviews_count: 13
url: https://www.desertcart.tn/products/1871041-kenwood-ksc-sw11-compact-powered-enclosed-subwoofer-for-car
store_origin: TN
region: Tunisia
---

# Compact 11" x 7.5" x 2.75" 150W max power Wired remote bass control Kenwood KSC-SW11 Compact Powered Enclosed Subwoofer for CAR

**Brand:** jvc
**Price:** 223.88 DT
**Availability:** ❌ Out of Stock

## Summary

> 🎵 Compact Powerhouse: Big Bass, Zero Compromise

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Kenwood KSC-SW11 Compact Powered Enclosed Subwoofer for CAR by jvc
- **How much does it cost?** 223.88 DT with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Currently out of stock
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.tn](https://www.desertcart.tn/products/1871041-kenwood-ksc-sw11-compact-powered-enclosed-subwoofer-for-car)

## Best For

- jvc enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted jvc brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Plug-and-Play Installation:** Simple wiring harness and RCA/speaker-level inputs make setup effortless for busy pros.
- • **Fits Anywhere, Sounds Everywhere:** Ultra-compact design fits discreetly under seats or in trunks—perfect for any ride.
- • **Powerful Bass, Minimal Footprint:** 150W built-in amp delivers deep, room-shaking bass without bulky gear.
- • **Engineered for Clarity and Durability:** Aluminum enclosure ensures robust sound and long-lasting performance.
- • **Precision Bass Control at Your Fingertips:** Wired remote lets you dial in the perfect bass level without leaving the driver’s seat.

## Overview

The Kenwood KSC-SW11 is a compact, powered subwoofer featuring an 8-1/4" x 5-1/8" driver housed in a durable aluminum enclosure. It delivers up to 150 watts of amplified bass with a frequency response of 32Hz-120Hz. Designed for tight spaces, it fits easily under seats or in trunks and includes a wired remote for convenient bass control. With versatile RCA and speaker-level inputs, this plug-and-play system offers professional-grade sound enhancement for trucks, sedans, and SUVs.

## Description

If you are limited in space or just looking to add some bass to your system, this kit is for you. The Kenwood KSC-SW11 is a compact low profile powered subwoofer system that can be added under car seat, in tight spaces or just in your trunk. This subwoofer is powered, so no need for an external amplifier, it also comes with remote bass control and power and ground wire harness. It's made by Kenwood, so you are getting quality made subwoofer that will last you years! This 150 Watt subwoofer is the perfect system for you if you are looking for that all in one system that is incredibly easy to install. Just wire the subwoofer to your battery, ground it, connect it to your head unit using RCA cables (Wiring Kit not included).

Review: Great bass for the buck in an easy-to-fit box - These are hands down the smallest powered bass boxes in the mass market today, and with a super low price point it was easy to get two. Such small units made finding space for them a snap; most cars will take these under the seat with no modifications. All their wiring attaches via included wiring harness that plugs in at the bass box. I've got them in a small Euro compact from the 80's, so when I carry backseat passengers for more than a half-hour drive, I can unplug and leave the subs at home. Did I just call these subs? They're not. As bass boxes they truly excel - the crossover can be adjusted up to 125 Hz, or as low as 50 Hz they'll still have plenty from a good CD to push out. But these are not competing with a 12" cone in a 40-lb box on a 500-watt amp. If you want to rattle the seals loose on your windshield these will not go there. They supplement your existing system. They also don't filter the low-end signal from the rest of your speakers: if you want to cut your main speakers' low bass, you'll need to either add high-pass filtering at those speakers or, more likely, look for an amp with sub outputs and main-speaker trim controls to do the filtering for you. But as good, economical bass in a good, economical car audio system, these little boxes are superb. I'm using 2 to augment my 1980's head unit, which puts out just 12 watts RMS per channel; with 2 of these hooked up to the speaker-out leads, I get plenty of sound and all the bass I could want. To be fair, one was doing the job fine, but I bought 2 and put 'em both in for just that little bit of overkill. :) Speaking of "modification" I did open the speakers and added 100 square inches of Dynamat Extreme to each box. The base is solid metal - feels like aluminum billet, it's that solid - but the upper is fairly thick but fairly flexible plastic. The plastic's flex helps keep the box from breaking things or cracking itself when jammed hard in a tight spot, so I still like the design. Opening the case was 6 easy screws; the speaker 4 more; reassembly was a snap. Adding the extra 2mm of dynamat to the inside (just the plastic surfaces)helps the sound a little. If you like Dynamat for the speaker enclosures in your car, you'll like it in these bass boxes, and you'll find it's easier to apply. (If you wouldn't bother with dynamat in your car, of course, you won't miss it in these great little bass boxes either.) Update: These little bass boxes just get better by the day. After a couple weeks' break-in using the default cabling setup, I re-cabled to try and get Left-Right channel separation. With the speaker cables all running to the center hump between seats, I connected both Lefts to the left speaker, both Rights to the right speaker, and set the Phase to 0 on both controllers. It works! True low-bass is omnidirectional, of course, so in the 40-60Hz range there's no impact. But the 60-125Hz range has a fair amount of directional bass on some works - think "Dark Side Of The Moon" for instance - and these boxes really shine on those stereo-separated bass/drum/synth instrumental licks!
Review: Please Read! Professional Installer Notes! - So I'm an MECP Certified Technician Professional Installer. I bought my truck a little over a year ago (2000 Chevy 2500) So please pay attention to what I'm going to tell you about this subwoofer. The installation is much easier than installing a Kicker Hideaway system. The sound is close to it (The Kicker has a little bit better lower sound). Now I had plenty of options to put in my truck I could have went with a custom built box however I have tools under the seats that I keep away from the elements and tend to use my back seat for storage (It's rained for the past 53 weeks in my area). So keeping in mind that I Needed something that was going to deliver enough bass that I enjoy without breaking the bank or getting my pulled over for a noise violation (3 communities in my area have Noise Ordinances that are STRICTLY Enforced with $400 fines). So when I bought the truck the previous owner blew the speakers, the AC Delco Radio was trashed, so I decided to install a high end pioneer touchscreen single-dinn radio with back up camera. Fronts I went with the new Kenwood 6 1/2's and swapped out the suicide door speakers with Rockford Fosgate 5 1/4's since I was going to have a hide away subwoofer. The Installation can be done a few ways if you have a good understanding of your vehicles electrical system. Running aftermarket I decided to go with the RCA's instead of military tapping into the speakers rear wires or using a Line out Converter to give it a better sound. You can run the power wire to the battery if you'd like to or if you want to you can also run it to the accessory wire of the Radio or another accessory wire in the vehicle. I ran mine to the accessory wire to the radio which pulls more than enough current for this subwoofer after testing it with a Digital Multi-Meter. The ground wire is slightly shorter so please find a VERY good place to ground it on the chasis (I ran mine under the carpet stripping the paint and tapping in with a self tapping screw & Star washer sealing the bottom with Silicone as to prevent any water leaks). The sound pressure level in the cab is amazing. It's not too loud and believe me you're not going to win any sound competitions with this subwoofer however for as small as it is, fit firmly and neatly underneath of the drivers seat. I used some 3M Velco Strips to ensure that it didn't slide around underneath in case I hit a bump or went up on an incline. Impressive Yes. Easy to Install Yes. Great Sound Yes. Competition NO. But those who get in your vehicle will know that you have a subwoofer. The controller is wired and will need to be mounted somewhere (I ran mine to the 3rd Seat and left it there in case I have to turn the sub off when I go through these Ordinance enforced communities nearby) and my only complaint IS the remote. It takes about a half second to react, but that's not a big minus to me for me to mark it down any. Now with all speakers, your initial sound on installation isn't going to be the best. The speakers have to flex for a while in order for them to mature but after 2 weeks the sound was just amazing. Parked and watching movies on break makes me feel like I'm in a theater setting. Listening to Rock, Metal, Rap, Hip Hop and other various genre's will need some tweaking within your head unit but the subwoofer itself is very reactive and doesn't phase out the other high end woofers I added to the doors. In fact it enhances the over all performance (The Rockford Fosgate 5 1/4's have bass blockers built in so there's no bass overpowering coming in from the back other THAN the subwoofer) Overall a great performing subwoofer, with easy installation and for the price WAY worth the recommendation. I still give it 5 stars because of the fact even though I'm not very pleased with the remote control it's NOT the selling point for me on an inexpensive self contained AMP/Sub. Great Job Kenwood!

## Features

- Housed together in a cast aluminum enclosure is 8-1/4" x 5-1/8" subwoofer with a built in 150W amplifier
- The compact size measures just 11” L x 7.5” W x 2-3/4” D so it can be installed under or behind a seat in a truck, in a sedan’s trunk or in an SUV’s hatch
- 32Hz-120Hz frequency response, Power Rating: 150W with Auto-Sensing preamp- (RCA) and speaker-level inputs
- Wiring harness and mounting brackets are also included
- Small Package but Powerful Sound, and Comes with wired remote to control all the bass from the Drivers Seat
- Aluminum enclosure with 8-1/4" x 5-1/8" Sub
- Compact powered subwoofer
- wired remote for control over: volume level, variable low-pass crossover(50-12)
- sub built-in amplifier: 75 watts RMS power (150 watts maximum)

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B00BO8O9XQ |
| Additional Features | Compact Size, Built-in Amplifier, Wired Remote |
| Antenna Location | For Smartphones or Tablets, Car Audio |
| Audio Driver Size | 8 inches |
| Audio Driver Type | Dynamic Driver |
| Audio Output Mode | Stereo , Surround Sound |
| Best Sellers Rank | #285,369 in Electronics ( See Top 100 in Electronics ) #1,479 in Car Component Subwoofers |
| Brand | JVC |
| Built-In Media | Subwoofer System |
| Color | BLACK |
| Compatible Devices | Smartphone, MP3 Player, Tablet |
| Compatible with Vehicle Type | Trucks, Sedans, SUVs |
| Connectivity Protocol | Wired (RCA and speaker-level inputs) |
| Connectivity Technology | RCA |
| Control Method | Remote |
| Controller Type | Remote Control |
| Customer Package Type | Standard Packaging |
| Customer Reviews | 4.3 out of 5 stars 3,539 Reviews |
| Enclosure Material | Aluminum |
| Frequency Response | 35 hertz |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00019048202215 |
| Input Voltage | 144 volts |
| Is Waterproof | FALSE |
| Item Dimensions D x W x H | 1"D x 4"W x 5"H |
| Item Type Name | Compact Powered Enclosed Subwoofer |
| Item Weight | 6.2 pounds |
| Manufacturer | KENWOOD |
| Maximum Range | 25 meters |
| Model Name | KSC-SW11 |
| Model Number | 21549898 |
| Mounting Type | Trunk Mount |
| Number Of Circuits | 1 |
| Number of Audio Channels | 5.1 |
| Number of Items | 1 |
| Power Source | Battery Powered |
| Series Number | 21549898 |
| Speaker Maximum Output Power | 150 watts |
| Speaker Size | 8 inches |
| Speaker Type | Subwoofer |
| Specific Uses For Product | personal |
| Subwoofer Connectivity Technology | Wired |
| Subwoofer Diameter | 8 inches |
| UPC | 617407337327 132018523735 080000289988 019048202215 |
| Unit Count | 1 Count |
| Warranty Description | 1 YR Manufacturer |
| Warranty Type | Limited Warranty |
| Water Resistance Level | Not Water Resistant |
| Wireless Technology | Wired |
| Woofer Diameter | 8 inches |

## Product Details

- **Audio Output Mode:** Stereo, Surround Sound
- **Brand:** JVC
- **Connectivity Technology:** RCA
- **Frequency Response:** 35 Hz
- **Speaker Maximum Output Power:** 150 Watts

## Images

![Kenwood KSC-SW11 Compact Powered Enclosed Subwoofer for CAR - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71zdXtPOgFL.jpg)
![Kenwood KSC-SW11 Compact Powered Enclosed Subwoofer for CAR - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51eAp9rY+cL.jpg)
![Kenwood KSC-SW11 Compact Powered Enclosed Subwoofer for CAR - Image 3](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81GiwkIuxxL.jpg)
![Kenwood KSC-SW11 Compact Powered Enclosed Subwoofer for CAR - Image 4](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71R7Xz1HJUL.jpg)
![Kenwood KSC-SW11 Compact Powered Enclosed Subwoofer for CAR - Image 5](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71dCHSLzo0L.jpg)

## Questions & Answers

**Q: Would I be able to install this into my 2014 Subaru Impreza? And if so would I need to buy anything else, or would this have everything that I need?**
A: None whatsoever. To keep your wire runs to a minimum remove your driver or passenger seat. It fits under either. They always harp about using heavy gauge wire, yet the supplied 12v wire is two 14ga wires that terminate @ a tiny fuse??? The biggest Hassel is pulling out your seat. Try it first and see if you like the sound. I've installed 3 of these exact units and audio quality has diminished.

**Q: Is it better to tap into the front left/right speaker wires or use a rca on the subout of a head unit? is one better than the other or is it the same?**
A: The RCA output from the head unit for the sub would be the best connection. It will allow controlling sub frequencies and volume levels with the controls built in to the deck. The signal quality is also better with the RCA connection.

**Q: Did i read correctly: this does not have to connect to the battery?**
A: Yes,you don't need to connect it direct to the battery, you can connect it directly from any constance(Yellow) 12Volt power. I tap mine together with my radio head unit and it's running fine. But you can definitely connect directly to the battery if you wanted to. The power it consume is not much for it to connect directly to the battery. But please do not cut away the 10amp fuse if you decide to tap it with your head unit or some other fuses, it's for the safety of your car. The only wire that you don't need to connect directly is the ACC 12Volt(Red) supply for the power control that comes in Blue/White(P.Control).

**Q: I have a factory deck and a 4 channel amp powering my four car speakers.  Would I need anything extra to install this sub?  RCA cable, fuse, etc?**
A: If you want to run RCA cables from the back of your radio to the amp without chopping up wires you need to buy a RCA cable with male ends on both sides.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Great bass for the buck in an easy-to-fit box
*by T***S on May 16, 2017*

These are hands down the smallest powered bass boxes in the mass market today, and with a super low price point it was easy to get two. Such small units made finding space for them a snap; most cars will take these under the seat with no modifications. All their wiring attaches via included wiring harness that plugs in at the bass box. I've got them in a small Euro compact from the 80's, so when I carry backseat passengers for more than a half-hour drive, I can unplug and leave the subs at home. Did I just call these subs? They're not. As bass boxes they truly excel - the crossover can be adjusted up to 125 Hz, or as low as 50 Hz they'll still have plenty from a good CD to push out. But these are not competing with a 12" cone in a 40-lb box on a 500-watt amp. If you want to rattle the seals loose on your windshield these will not go there. They supplement your existing system. They also don't filter the low-end signal from the rest of your speakers: if you want to cut your main speakers' low bass, you'll need to either add high-pass filtering at those speakers or, more likely, look for an amp with sub outputs and main-speaker trim controls to do the filtering for you. But as good, economical bass in a good, economical car audio system, these little boxes are superb. I'm using 2 to augment my 1980's head unit, which puts out just 12 watts RMS per channel; with 2 of these hooked up to the speaker-out leads, I get plenty of sound and all the bass I could want. To be fair, one was doing the job fine, but I bought 2 and put 'em both in for just that little bit of overkill. :) Speaking of "modification" I did open the speakers and added 100 square inches of Dynamat Extreme to each box. The base is solid metal - feels like aluminum billet, it's that solid - but the upper is fairly thick but fairly flexible plastic. The plastic's flex helps keep the box from breaking things or cracking itself when jammed hard in a tight spot, so I still like the design. Opening the case was 6 easy screws; the speaker 4 more; reassembly was a snap. Adding the extra 2mm of dynamat to the inside (just the plastic surfaces)helps the sound a little. If you like Dynamat for the speaker enclosures in your car, you'll like it in these bass boxes, and you'll find it's easier to apply. (If you wouldn't bother with dynamat in your car, of course, you won't miss it in these great little bass boxes either.) Update: These little bass boxes just get better by the day. After a couple weeks' break-in using the default cabling setup, I re-cabled to try and get Left-Right channel separation. With the speaker cables all running to the center hump between seats, I connected both Lefts to the left speaker, both Rights to the right speaker, and set the Phase to 0 on both controllers. It works! True low-bass is omnidirectional, of course, so in the 40-60Hz range there's no impact. But the 60-125Hz range has a fair amount of directional bass on some works - think "Dark Side Of The Moon" for instance - and these boxes really shine on those stereo-separated bass/drum/synth instrumental licks!

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Please Read! Professional Installer Notes!
*by R***E on July 16, 2019*

So I'm an MECP Certified Technician Professional Installer. I bought my truck a little over a year ago (2000 Chevy 2500) So please pay attention to what I'm going to tell you about this subwoofer. The installation is much easier than installing a Kicker Hideaway system. The sound is close to it (The Kicker has a little bit better lower sound). Now I had plenty of options to put in my truck I could have went with a custom built box however I have tools under the seats that I keep away from the elements and tend to use my back seat for storage (It's rained for the past 53 weeks in my area). So keeping in mind that I Needed something that was going to deliver enough bass that I enjoy without breaking the bank or getting my pulled over for a noise violation (3 communities in my area have Noise Ordinances that are STRICTLY Enforced with $400 fines). So when I bought the truck the previous owner blew the speakers, the AC Delco Radio was trashed, so I decided to install a high end pioneer touchscreen single-dinn radio with back up camera. Fronts I went with the new Kenwood 6 1/2's and swapped out the suicide door speakers with Rockford Fosgate 5 1/4's since I was going to have a hide away subwoofer. The Installation can be done a few ways if you have a good understanding of your vehicles electrical system. Running aftermarket I decided to go with the RCA's instead of military tapping into the speakers rear wires or using a Line out Converter to give it a better sound. You can run the power wire to the battery if you'd like to or if you want to you can also run it to the accessory wire of the Radio or another accessory wire in the vehicle. I ran mine to the accessory wire to the radio which pulls more than enough current for this subwoofer after testing it with a Digital Multi-Meter. The ground wire is slightly shorter so please find a VERY good place to ground it on the chasis (I ran mine under the carpet stripping the paint and tapping in with a self tapping screw & Star washer sealing the bottom with Silicone as to prevent any water leaks). The sound pressure level in the cab is amazing. It's not too loud and believe me you're not going to win any sound competitions with this subwoofer however for as small as it is, fit firmly and neatly underneath of the drivers seat. I used some 3M Velco Strips to ensure that it didn't slide around underneath in case I hit a bump or went up on an incline. Impressive Yes. Easy to Install Yes. Great Sound Yes. Competition NO. But those who get in your vehicle will know that you have a subwoofer. The controller is wired and will need to be mounted somewhere (I ran mine to the 3rd Seat and left it there in case I have to turn the sub off when I go through these Ordinance enforced communities nearby) and my only complaint IS the remote. It takes about a half second to react, but that's not a big minus to me for me to mark it down any. Now with all speakers, your initial sound on installation isn't going to be the best. The speakers have to flex for a while in order for them to mature but after 2 weeks the sound was just amazing. Parked and watching movies on break makes me feel like I'm in a theater setting. Listening to Rock, Metal, Rap, Hip Hop and other various genre's will need some tweaking within your head unit but the subwoofer itself is very reactive and doesn't phase out the other high end woofers I added to the doors. In fact it enhances the over all performance (The Rockford Fosgate 5 1/4's have bass blockers built in so there's no bass overpowering coming in from the back other THAN the subwoofer) Overall a great performing subwoofer, with easy installation and for the price WAY worth the recommendation. I still give it 5 stars because of the fact even though I'm not very pleased with the remote control it's NOT the selling point for me on an inexpensive self contained AMP/Sub. Great Job Kenwood!

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Very compact, relatively simple setup, decent sound, affordable!
*by S***D on March 20, 2014*

I have been listening to this sub in a Subaru Forester paired with my Hybrid Audio Unity speakers for a couple of weeks now, and I am satisfied with it. I am now blown away - and don't expect to be - but the very noticeable gap in my audio spectrum is no longer missing. I chose this sub because I did not want to sacrifice any trunk space and I didn't want to do any battery modding to support some giant thumper. This sub fits cleanly under my passenger seat with room to spare, and comes with a handy remote that I velcro'd to the side of the center shifter area. The remote gives you control over sub power and low-pass frequency, which is great for tailoring the amount of bass you want for the track of the moment. It also glows high-tech blue -- albeit uselessly, since the light goes through two strips on the sides of the remote and not anywhere that makes the controls visible. As other reviewers have pointed out, the audio spectrum from this sub does cut out on the low-end. It does not hit very deep, which means those vibrations you get from really fancy setups that make your heart tremble are not to be found here. It does stay relatively clean though, and for the most part it is not boomy (although I do have to turn it down from time to time when boomy occurs). I set the low-pass frequency to cut off at 63 hz and set the high-pass for my mid-woofers to 65 hz. This makes the two blend nicely and keeps the sub from getting boomy and my mids from getting muddy. I keep the low-pass on the remote at 125 hz so the head-unit can stay in control and vary the sub power from 50-100% depending on what I'm listening to. I installed this sub myself, and it was the first time I really took a car apart. That made a fun (but nervous) experience, particularly with dealing with the battery. For those who are interested in doing this themselves, here are some things that I've learned that I hope can help you too. The videos on Crutchfield are a good start and cover most installation basics. Google 'Crutchfield Powered Subwoofer Install' to see. 1) The manual that comes with this thing is very hard for a beginner to understand. But Google can answer most of your confusion. One thing in particular was that the blue P.Cont wire means Power Control -- it connects to the blue/white wire in your head unit sometimes called remote antenna. 2) The connectors on these wires generally need to be removed and replaced with other terminals. Coming from building computers, I thought everything just snapped in place. Not really. Make sure you have all the tools you need going into this. 3) These are the tools / parts: - RCA male to male cable (the 6ft HOSA sold on Amazon is a very good deal) - Wire cutter / stripper / crimper - Heat-shrink circular terminals for your ground and battery (get large, good ones rated for automobiles) - Heat-shrink connectors for splicing the sub wires to your head unit - A lighter or heat gun - Gloves when dealing with the battery - A decent ratchet set - Screwdrivers - Plastic no-scratch panel removal tools. In reality you just need a small set like http://www.amazon.com/No-Scratch-Audio-Refit-Panel-Removal/dp/B005909KWA - File, sand-paper or power grinder for exposing bare metal to your ground connection - Wire sleeve for protecting your power cable to the battery - Electrical tape (weather rated, >200 degrees f) - Google / YouTube It will also be good to have some light-duty zip-ties or velcro ties to organize your wires. 4) Make sure you disconnect your battery any time you are dealing with live wires. I got lazy at one point and kept the battery connected when I moved my grounding cable and did some changes to my power line, and it ended up blowing the fuse. 5) If you do something dumb and blow the fuse, at least fuses are cheap. 6) Do not take your car's interior panels off without knowing exactly what you're doing. Google and visit online forums or find videos on YouTube that explain how to disassemble your specific car model for head-unit access and running wires to wherever you need to run them. It is very easy to break the clips or mess up something that will be expensive to replace if you don't know what you're doing. 7) Heat-shrink terminals and connectors will work with a lighter - just use low heat and keep the flame as far as possible while still melting the plastic. You just don't want it to burn. 8) Once you get everything installed, it's a great feeling to know how your car works and how to take the interior apart! I spilled a shake into my shifter a while ago and paid the mechanic over $100 to clean it out. I could have done it myself if I knew what I do now (and done a better job).

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