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🔧 Weld Your Way to Success!
The Blue Demon BDTP-125-01T Triple Play Low Temp Aluminum-Zinc Brazing Rod is a versatile welding solution designed for professionals. With one rod capable of three applications, it offers unmatched strength and corrosion resistance, all while being user-friendly and efficient. Made in the USA, this product is perfect for those looking to elevate their welding game.
Manufacturer | Welding Material Sales |
Part Number | BDTP-125-01T |
Item Weight | 1 pounds |
Product Dimensions | 38 x 1 x 1 inches |
Country of Origin | USA |
Item model number | BDTP-125-01T |
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
Style | Welding wire |
Material | Aluminum |
Power Source | Fuel Powered |
Item Package Quantity | 1 |
Measurement System | Metric |
Included Components | BDTP-125-01T |
Batteries Included? | No |
Batteries Required? | No |
J**1
It works very well!
It works great! If you don't know how to weld, you might have trouble. The base metal needs to be at the right temperature to melt the rod and the surface needs to be cleaned using a Stainless steel wire brush. I preheat the aluminum then wire brush, then put the parts together, then use the aluminum rod. Gently scratch the aluminum with a stiff stainless steel wire while welding. Remember, the aluminum has impurities that come to the surface of the puddle that needs to be gently removed with the stiff stainless wire. I like to tin all the parts before I put them together just like soldering. I get very good results. Practice. You'll get good at it. It is fun!
R**.
Copiously follow the instructions!
This low-temperature aluminum brazing rod is economical, easy to use, and effective (IF you follow the directions). I used this rod to seam braze 75 aluminum joints (300 total brazes) that had broken on an aluminum pontoon boat canopy frame that had collapsed during a storm. Most of the joints were 1" x 1" aluminum square tube" with heavier duty/guage rectangular aluminum at the base of the frame. This fluxless aluminum rod worked well for this purpose, but only when the instructions were copiously followed, which, in essence, are: 1) Secure your joint (vice grips, clamps, etc.) and copiously clean all aluminum surfaces to be brazed with a large new stainless steel ("SS") brush (buy one large brush and 2 or 3 small brushes), 2) get a good "handheld" torch (I tried several and found "Mag – Torch" the best) with a hose (sold separately from the torch for about $20) that connects the torch to a "map gas" cylinder (hotter than propane and available in all home improvement stores), 3) frequently use your small stainless steel brush on the area to be brazed during the heating and brazing process to remove impurities ("oxides"). if you don't brush, your braze will be significantly weakened or may not adhere at all. 4) frequently test the heat of your metal by running the aluminum rod over the joint area. When the rod begins to easily melt (from the heat of the rod against the hot metal only- absolutely not from the direct heat of the torch) deflect the torch flame away from the joint and begin "tinning" the joint ( tinning = applying a light coat of melted aluminum from the rod to the surfaces you abraded with your small stainless steel brush). 5) Put the flame back on the joint for 3 to 5 seconds to be sure that the tinning adheres, then remove the torch to let the tinning coo/solidify for 5 to 10 seconds. 6) Use your stainless steel brush again to clean the oxides from the tinned area, 7) reheat the joint to where your aluminum will again melt the rod and apply a generous coat of melted aluminum to the tinned area of your joint, 8) finish the joint braze with about 4 or 5 seconds more heat from the torch to increase final adherence of the melted aluminum to the joint. 9) If you see impurities (oxides) in your braze, don't be afraid to run your small brush through your braze to clean out the impurities to strengthen your joint. This "brush through" may require you to melt a little more aluminum on your joint but the joint will be stronger for it. In sum, secure the work, use new stainless steel brushes to frequently clean work, metal not torch must melt aluminum brazing rod, "tin" all brushed areas, apply final braze coat, and always finish with more heat for adherence.Practice on a few joints before doing your finish work. Everything will seem very awkward at first as you juggle the torch, the brush, the rod, and the correct heat. Within about 5 to 10 joints you will feel like a professional. If you cut corners though and don't get the work hot enough or don't frequently keep your joint clean of the oxides with the brush your brazes will look pretty but won't hold and your time will be wasted. Good luck!
G**N
Happy with product but not shipping
Haven't used yet but the package showed up and a couple rods fell out of the box. The box had no holes nor did it have any packaging materials.Description says about 22 rods I got about 12.
F**E
If it's not working you either didn't grind the metal enough or you aren't getting it hot enough
Works good. You have to grind the aluminum to remove the out layer before this will work. Must be done right away before metal oxidizes again.If you can't get it to flowmout smooth and stick if because you aren't getting the aluminum hot enough. You need a big torch tip and lots of gas. The flame turns red when it's getting hot enough.Watch their how to video.
J**A
I hope your luck is better than mine.
I watched a few videos of this stuff and felt like it would be perfect to repair my motorcycle crankcase where the drain plug had busted out. To practice, I bought some alumiweld sticks from HF and some MAP gas from the Lowe’s. This stuff isn’t nearly as easy to use as the YouTube guys make it look. It’s a fine line between heat and voodoo magic to get decent results. It was a pain to get it to adhere to the crankcase and I was worried about damaging other items in what should have been a straight forward process.
G**C
Actually works!!!
I bought two other products before this one. Stuff made in china. Thin wire. Those didn’t work at all. I was trying to braze two pieces of aluminum with close to a quarter inch gap in the middle. Other wires didn’t work well. Then I watched some videos on YouTube about different types of wire. This seemed to work well in the video so I gave it a shot before abandoning my project. This ACTUALLY WORKED. It melted at the right temperature with a map torch. Was a little difficult to get used to if you’ve never done it before but if you’re trying to “weld” something together this gives you the ability to do so. I would suggest practicing on scrap pieces first. This seemed to be the only wire that worked.
A**R
Would not recommend using these for large cracks in pressure systems.
Have a long ~6 inch crack in a small aluminum water tank.The first soldering stick did very well.The solder sticks after that looked like they were forming slag during cooldown with small bubble holes forming.Under pressure, the first solder did not leak.The remaining solder, I could not get it to stop leaking - many pin holes.I even clean the bad solder off, brushed the area clean and re-soldered with no change.So, gave up
M**K
Rods were all there.
Despite the package not sealed neat and proper, all 22 rods were there. I say the word were because within 20 minutes of receiving them I put 1 to work on a couple things to test, they work just fine.I'm not taking stars off because the package it came in doesn't mean anything, it's the fact the product is there and works. Good value for the money if you have a need for that many rods.Just a little edit and it doesn't look very good because my butane torch wouldn't settle down, but the rods are good enough to join 2 pieces of side can together so you know it's a good product...
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