--- product_id: 490042532 title: "Orion Motor Tech Thread Repair Kit, SAE and Metric Thread Restorer Kit with HSS Drill Bits Inserts Taps Break Off Tools, Rethreading Tools in 1/4\" 5/16\" 3/8\" 7/16\" 1/2\" & M5 M6 M8 M10 M12 Sizes" brand: "orion motor tech" price: "646.32 DT" currency: TND in_stock: true reviews_count: 8 category: "Orion Motor Tech" url: https://www.desertcart.tn/products/490042532-orion-motor-tech-thread-repair-kit-sae-and-metric-thread store_origin: TN region: Tunisia --- # Compact portable storage case Heat-treated high-speed steel tools All-in-one SAE & Metric sizes Orion Motor Tech Thread Repair Kit, SAE and Metric Thread Restorer Kit with HSS Drill Bits Inserts Taps Break Off Tools, Rethreading Tools in 1/4" 5/16" 3/8" 7/16" 1/2" & M5 M6 M8 M10 M12 Sizes **Brand:** orion motor tech **Price:** 646.32 DT **Availability:** ✅ In Stock ## Summary > 🧰 Fix it like a pro, carry it like a boss! ## Quick Answers - **What is this?** Orion Motor Tech Thread Repair Kit, SAE and Metric Thread Restorer Kit with HSS Drill Bits Inserts Taps Break Off Tools, Rethreading Tools in 1/4" 5/16" 3/8" 7/16" 1/2" & M5 M6 M8 M10 M12 Sizes by orion motor tech - **How much does it cost?** 646.32 DT with free shipping - **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship - **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.tn](https://www.desertcart.tn/products/490042532-orion-motor-tech-thread-repair-kit-sae-and-metric-thread) ## Best For - orion motor tech enthusiasts ## Why This Product - Trusted orion motor tech brand quality - Free international shipping included - Worldwide delivery with tracking - 15-day hassle-free returns ## Key Features - • **Complete Thread Rescue Kit:** Everything you need in one sleek, organized case—no more hunting for odd drill bits or taps. - • **Effortless Thread Restoration:** 135° drill bits and smooth installation tools make rethreading stripped bolts faster and more reliable than ever. - • **Precision Engineered Durability:** Heat-treated HSS and carbon steel tools built to last through countless repairs and maintenance jobs. - • **Universal SAE & Metric Coverage:** Covers 10 essential sizes from 1/4" to 1/2" and M5 to M12—perfect for automotive, machinery, and DIY pros. - • **On-the-Go Professional Portability:** Compact, rugged case keeps your tools organized and ready for any job—whether in the garage or on-site. ## Overview The Orion Motor Tech Thread Repair Kit is a professional-grade helicoil set featuring heat-treated high-speed steel drill bits, taps, inserts, and break-off tools. It supports both SAE and metric threads across 10 common sizes, all housed in a durable, portable case. Designed for mechanics and DIY enthusiasts alike, this kit restores stripped or damaged threads with precision and ease, ensuring long-lasting repairs on automotive engines, machinery, and more. ## Description Buy Orion Motor Tech Thread Repair Kit, SAE and Metric Helicoil Repair Kit with HSS Drill Bits Inserts Taps Break Off Tools, Rethreading Tools in 1/4" 5/16" 3/8" 7/16" 1/2" & M5 M6 M8 M10 M12 Sizes: Metric Inserts & Kits - desertcart.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases Review: Great kit, but Take Your Time! - I don't normally (ever) write reviews, but I took a chance on the less expensive option, and it turned out well. I'm also going to write a review I wish I had come across when I was first discovering Helicoils and Time-serts. Fair warning: It will be long. tl;dr: this kit worked great on aluminum, but don't rush or force it! I'm a weekend warrior-type mechanic. I work on my dirt bike mainly, and have put in several Helicoils/Time-serts over the years but am by no means a professional. This task is conceptually scary, especially on engine blocks and especially the first time. But it's really pretty straightforward. The kit Comes in a solid box for long term storage. Instructions a very basic. Pieces all seem like quality to me. Drill bit worked great and looked basically perfect after I used it. Same for the thread tap. Of course the tapered end looks kinda blunt, because it is, and needs to be. You get a bunch of inserts, and a small hex tool for adjusting the collar on the insertion tool. Worked great, and seems like no loss of quality by saving some money with this. In all the reviews it looks to me like all the folks who broke tools or complain about bad quality didn't use any oil. The basics 1. The tools are only as good as the user. If you are the corner-cutting type (as I sometimes am) this task is probably not for you. Save yourself the frustration and take whatever it is to a professional. 2. If you don't have cutting oil, go get some. Do not attempt this without it...you will indeed break tools. 3. Proceed slowly and carefully. (Again, if you are in a hurry, move along.) 4. In addition to this kit you will need: a drill, cutting oil(!), a tap handle, RED thread locker, possibly some tape. Ok, the steps (most of these have a picture too): 1. Confirm the parts are correct in the kit...I guess some have had mix ups. The included drill bit should be larger than your bolt diameter but not by much. The outside diameter of the insert should be as wide as the width or the tap (thread cutter). Your bolt should almost fit into an uninstalled insert, but not quite. 2. Figure out how far to drill to be able to insert the insert. If a precision depth is needed, mark your drill bit with tape or a small zip-tie so you don't go too far. Same for your thread tap. 3. Drill out bad threads. Ideally your piece is set up firmly in a vice, if possible. Anything to minimize the possibility of drilling or threading crookedly. I used a little cutting oil during drilling to minimize friction. If drilling aluminum like I was, you don't need to go full speed and push hard, trying to drill it out in one quick go. At first the bit will catch on your bad threads, but will quickly go through them, so hold things steady and proceed slowly. You can clean up a bit with faster drilling as your hole gets deeper. 4. Clean the hole of shavings. Compressed air is your friend here. Another great friend to have is a can of contact cleaner or electrical circuitry cleaner. It cuts grease, leaves no residue, acts fast, and is safe on everything: metal, plastic, electronics, paint. Available at an auto parts store or here on desertcart. 5. Mount thread tap in tap handle, put some drops of cutting oil on the threads, and place into drilled hole. The tap has a tapered end, so initially it should sit in the hole and be easily removed before turning. At the beginning you will have the greatest chance of starting in crooked, so do your best to keep the tool perpendicular (in both directions) to the hole, turning slowly, and with slight pressure...just enough to feel it bite a little. If you get going a little crooked in the first couple 1/4 turns, that's okay, you should be able to keep a little pressure on the tap and steer it back to centered. The initial threads will be finalized using the full-size threads further up the tap. 6. Once you get maybe 1-2 full turns and it feels like the tap won't pull out or fall over if you let go, back out the tap a 1/4 or 1/2 turn (or all the way out) to free any shavings. Proceed very slowly, and with light-medium pressure when turning. And I mean in the turning direction, not in the into-the-hole direction for that pressure. You shouldn't need to apply any downward pressure once the threads have started. As you turn, there will be spots that require almost no pressure, and some spots that require a hair more pressure than you want it to, probably. ALWAYS back out and check if you hit a spot that feels really difficult. At no point should you be torquing on the tool to the point that it snaps. Again, oil is what makes a big difference here. Some people go a 1/4 turn and back out, I was going about a full turn and then backing out. That also depends on the material. If threading steel, definitely err on the side of smaller bites. After a few full turns, I would back all the way out and remove any shavings I could with a small pick, and add more oil. More oil is much better than not enough. 7. When you have cut enough full threads (past the tapered part of the tap) to place your insert where you need it (which is usually just below the surface of the part) clean out the hole with contact cleaner. Make sure to remove all the shavings and oil. Let it dry completely, which shouldn't take long with cc. 8. Mount the insert on the tool with the tab at the bottom in the slot of the tool. Adjust the collar on the insert insertion tool so that it stops at the surface of your part when the insert is at the right spot in the hole. One of my pics show this. Put RED thread locker on the outside of the insert. Place the insert into the hole and begin slowly turning the tool to thread the insert in. It should go in fairly easily, but will feel a little weird because the insert is actually unspooling a little as it resists going in. Do not crank on it with all your might. If you have doubts, back out and check your previous work. Is there a shaving in your way? If you have a very shallow hole, you may not get the entire insert in. You can cut off the extra if needed. If you don't have a minimum of 3 full threads in your hole, it's probably not going to hold. If your hole is deeper than the insert, be sure to use the collar to put your insert at the spot you need it. 9. Once the insert is in place, the tool should come out easily. The prongs on the end should not be bent, because you haven't been cranking hard on it trying to force things, right? 10. Insert the punch tool so it sits on the tang sticking into the center of the hole at the bottom of the insert. Give it a good whack with a hammer. More than a light, tentative tap, less than trying to embed the tang in the bottom of the hole. Turn the part over or blow out the hole to remove the tang. It should look like a "V". 11. Check that your bolt now threads in easily, then remove it and let your thread locker set. Grab your beverage of choice and be pleased with yourself for saving your part and learning a new skill! Congrats! Review: Good kit for when you need it - This was used to repair the threads on a Kohler engine valve cover bolt hole, which actually seems like a common occurrence if you look it up. I had the choice between using a thread repair kit like this one or putting a nut on the back of it since the designed allowed for that, but I went with a repair kit so I don't have to change anything about the way this would function. This kit was a perfect match for the bolts on the valve cover, and included everything you need except for the drill and a t-handle. This is important since the drill sizes are fairly uncommon for helicoil kits, and I didn't want to buy a random bit or set of bits that I won't use often. This also has the tools needed, which is a benefit to anyone doing this for the first time, like I was. Overall getting the odd size tap, odd size drill bit, the tools, and 30 helicoils, this kit was a great buy for the price. Having all of the components needed in one kit made this job go extremely quickly, and without any issues. The helicoils being stainless steel was good also since this is going to get wet, be heated up, and have a tougher life, but not a short one. I did this repair almost a year ago and it has held up without any issues. I also have enough pieces left to repair the other bolts when they fail since its a twin cylinder engine, with 2 valve covers, and 4 bolts on each cover. Then I will still have more left if I ever come across another M6x1.00 bolt, which I might since a lot of Japanese cars seem to use this size also. ## Features - ALL-IN-ONE KIT: This thread repair kit by Orion Motor Tech includes drill bits, screw taps, wire thread inserts, and installation & tang break-off tools in the 5 most needed SAE and metric sizes: 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 7/16", and 1/2" as well as M5, M6, M8, M10, and M12 - PURPOSE BUILT: Each tool of this heavy-duty helicoil kit is made of quality steel for durable handling and is heat treated for greater strength and longevity in place - WIDE APPLICATION: Our universal rethreading tool kit is ideal for restoring stripped or damaged internal threads as well as for performing maintenance work to protect any threads from wear and tear - EASY USE: The 135° drill bits quickly create room for the installation tools to smoothly fit the inserts that repair your old threading, while the break-off tools clean things up for use - SUPERIOR PORTABILITY: This multipurpose drill and tap set comes with convenient carrying case to hold and organize all the parts for easy transport and storage between jobs ## Technical Specifications | Specification | Value | |---------------|-------| | ASIN | B09XW276WY | | Best Sellers Rank | #1,825 in Automotive ( See Top 100 in Automotive ) #3 in Thread Metric Inserts & Repair Kits | | Brand | Orion Motor Tech | | Brand Name | Orion Motor Tech | | Customer Reviews | 4.6 out of 5 stars 1,345 Reviews | | Included Components | 1 x Instructions, 1 x Storage Case, Metric Tools: 5 x Drill Bits, 5 x Screw Taps, 5 x Installation Tools, 137 x Wire Thread Inserts, 5 x Breaking Pin Tools, SAE Tools: 5 x Drill Bits, 5 x Screw Taps, 5 x Installation Tools, 127 x Wire Thread Inserts, 5 x Breaking Pin Tools | | Manufacturer | Orion Motor Tech | | Material | High-Speed Steel, 9CrSi Steel, AISI 1045 Carbon Steel | | Material Type | High-Speed Steel, 9CrSi Steel, AISI 1045 Carbon Steel | | Model | TRK-K262-BX | | Warranty Description | 1 year | ## Product Details - **Brand:** Orion Motor Tech - **Manufacturer:** Orion Motor Tech - **Material:** High-Speed Steel, 9CrSi Steel, AISI 1045 Carbon Steel ## Images ![Orion Motor Tech Thread Repair Kit, SAE and Metric Thread Restorer Kit with HSS Drill Bits Inserts Taps Break Off Tools, Rethreading Tools in 1/4" 5/16" 3/8" 7/16" 1/2" & M5 M6 M8 M10 M12 Sizes - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71SqkGfYi9L.jpg) ## Available Options This product comes in different **Size, Number Of Items** options. ## Customer Reviews ### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Great kit, but Take Your Time! *by C***! on March 23, 2025* I don't normally (ever) write reviews, but I took a chance on the less expensive option, and it turned out well. I'm also going to write a review I wish I had come across when I was first discovering Helicoils and Time-serts. Fair warning: It will be long. tl;dr: this kit worked great on aluminum, but don't rush or force it! I'm a weekend warrior-type mechanic. I work on my dirt bike mainly, and have put in several Helicoils/Time-serts over the years but am by no means a professional. This task is conceptually scary, especially on engine blocks and especially the first time. But it's really pretty straightforward. The kit Comes in a solid box for long term storage. Instructions a very basic. Pieces all seem like quality to me. Drill bit worked great and looked basically perfect after I used it. Same for the thread tap. Of course the tapered end looks kinda blunt, because it is, and needs to be. You get a bunch of inserts, and a small hex tool for adjusting the collar on the insertion tool. Worked great, and seems like no loss of quality by saving some money with this. In all the reviews it looks to me like all the folks who broke tools or complain about bad quality didn't use any oil. The basics 1. The tools are only as good as the user. If you are the corner-cutting type (as I sometimes am) this task is probably not for you. Save yourself the frustration and take whatever it is to a professional. 2. If you don't have cutting oil, go get some. Do not attempt this without it...you will indeed break tools. 3. Proceed slowly and carefully. (Again, if you are in a hurry, move along.) 4. In addition to this kit you will need: a drill, cutting oil(!), a tap handle, RED thread locker, possibly some tape. Ok, the steps (most of these have a picture too): 1. Confirm the parts are correct in the kit...I guess some have had mix ups. The included drill bit should be larger than your bolt diameter but not by much. The outside diameter of the insert should be as wide as the width or the tap (thread cutter). Your bolt should almost fit into an uninstalled insert, but not quite. 2. Figure out how far to drill to be able to insert the insert. If a precision depth is needed, mark your drill bit with tape or a small zip-tie so you don't go too far. Same for your thread tap. 3. Drill out bad threads. Ideally your piece is set up firmly in a vice, if possible. Anything to minimize the possibility of drilling or threading crookedly. I used a little cutting oil during drilling to minimize friction. If drilling aluminum like I was, you don't need to go full speed and push hard, trying to drill it out in one quick go. At first the bit will catch on your bad threads, but will quickly go through them, so hold things steady and proceed slowly. You can clean up a bit with faster drilling as your hole gets deeper. 4. Clean the hole of shavings. Compressed air is your friend here. Another great friend to have is a can of contact cleaner or electrical circuitry cleaner. It cuts grease, leaves no residue, acts fast, and is safe on everything: metal, plastic, electronics, paint. Available at an auto parts store or here on Amazon. 5. Mount thread tap in tap handle, put some drops of cutting oil on the threads, and place into drilled hole. The tap has a tapered end, so initially it should sit in the hole and be easily removed before turning. At the beginning you will have the greatest chance of starting in crooked, so do your best to keep the tool perpendicular (in both directions) to the hole, turning slowly, and with slight pressure...just enough to feel it bite a little. If you get going a little crooked in the first couple 1/4 turns, that's okay, you should be able to keep a little pressure on the tap and steer it back to centered. The initial threads will be finalized using the full-size threads further up the tap. 6. Once you get maybe 1-2 full turns and it feels like the tap won't pull out or fall over if you let go, back out the tap a 1/4 or 1/2 turn (or all the way out) to free any shavings. Proceed very slowly, and with light-medium pressure when turning. And I mean in the turning direction, not in the into-the-hole direction for that pressure. You shouldn't need to apply any downward pressure once the threads have started. As you turn, there will be spots that require almost no pressure, and some spots that require a hair more pressure than you want it to, probably. ALWAYS back out and check if you hit a spot that feels really difficult. At no point should you be torquing on the tool to the point that it snaps. Again, oil is what makes a big difference here. Some people go a 1/4 turn and back out, I was going about a full turn and then backing out. That also depends on the material. If threading steel, definitely err on the side of smaller bites. After a few full turns, I would back all the way out and remove any shavings I could with a small pick, and add more oil. More oil is much better than not enough. 7. When you have cut enough full threads (past the tapered part of the tap) to place your insert where you need it (which is usually just below the surface of the part) clean out the hole with contact cleaner. Make sure to remove all the shavings and oil. Let it dry completely, which shouldn't take long with cc. 8. Mount the insert on the tool with the tab at the bottom in the slot of the tool. Adjust the collar on the insert insertion tool so that it stops at the surface of your part when the insert is at the right spot in the hole. One of my pics show this. Put RED thread locker on the outside of the insert. Place the insert into the hole and begin slowly turning the tool to thread the insert in. It should go in fairly easily, but will feel a little weird because the insert is actually unspooling a little as it resists going in. Do not crank on it with all your might. If you have doubts, back out and check your previous work. Is there a shaving in your way? If you have a very shallow hole, you may not get the entire insert in. You can cut off the extra if needed. If you don't have a minimum of 3 full threads in your hole, it's probably not going to hold. If your hole is deeper than the insert, be sure to use the collar to put your insert at the spot you need it. 9. Once the insert is in place, the tool should come out easily. The prongs on the end should not be bent, because you haven't been cranking hard on it trying to force things, right? 10. Insert the punch tool so it sits on the tang sticking into the center of the hole at the bottom of the insert. Give it a good whack with a hammer. More than a light, tentative tap, less than trying to embed the tang in the bottom of the hole. Turn the part over or blow out the hole to remove the tang. It should look like a "V". 11. Check that your bolt now threads in easily, then remove it and let your thread locker set. Grab your beverage of choice and be pleased with yourself for saving your part and learning a new skill! Congrats! ### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Good kit for when you need it *by A***X on July 1, 2025* This was used to repair the threads on a Kohler engine valve cover bolt hole, which actually seems like a common occurrence if you look it up. I had the choice between using a thread repair kit like this one or putting a nut on the back of it since the designed allowed for that, but I went with a repair kit so I don't have to change anything about the way this would function. This kit was a perfect match for the bolts on the valve cover, and included everything you need except for the drill and a t-handle. This is important since the drill sizes are fairly uncommon for helicoil kits, and I didn't want to buy a random bit or set of bits that I won't use often. This also has the tools needed, which is a benefit to anyone doing this for the first time, like I was. Overall getting the odd size tap, odd size drill bit, the tools, and 30 helicoils, this kit was a great buy for the price. Having all of the components needed in one kit made this job go extremely quickly, and without any issues. The helicoils being stainless steel was good also since this is going to get wet, be heated up, and have a tougher life, but not a short one. I did this repair almost a year ago and it has held up without any issues. I also have enough pieces left to repair the other bolts when they fail since its a twin cylinder engine, with 2 valve covers, and 4 bolts on each cover. Then I will still have more left if I ever come across another M6x1.00 bolt, which I might since a lot of Japanese cars seem to use this size also. ### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Works well *by M***9 on March 6, 2026* Great kit. Worked exactly as intended. Tools are all there. Very well organized, great for the price. ## Frequently Bought Together - Orion Motor Tech Thread Repair Kit, SAE and Metric Helicoil Repair Kit with HSS Drill Bits Inserts Taps Break Off Tools, Rethreading Tools in 1/4" 5/16" 3/8" 7/16" 1/2" & M5 M6 M8 M10 M12 Sizes - Orion Motor Tech 48 Piece Thread Chaser Set, Metric and SAE Thread Repair Kit with 22 Taps 24 Dies 2 Thread Files, Universal Rethreading Kit Thread Restorer Tool Set in UNC UNF Metric Sizes with Case - Orion Motor Tech 80pc Tap and Die Set in SAE and Metric Sizes, Metric and Standard Tap Set and Die Tool Set for Internal and External Threading --- ## Why Shop on Desertcart? - 🛒 **Trusted by 1.3+ Million Shoppers** — Serving international shoppers since 2016 - 🌍 **Shop Globally** — Access 737+ million products across 21 categories - 💰 **No Hidden Fees** — All customs, duties, and taxes included in the price - 🔄 **15-Day Free Returns** — Hassle-free returns (30 days for PRO members) - 🔒 **Secure Payments** — Trusted payment options with buyer protection - ⭐ **TrustPilot Rated 4.5/5** — Based on 8,000+ happy customer reviews **Shop now:** [https://www.desertcart.tn/products/490042532-orion-motor-tech-thread-repair-kit-sae-and-metric-thread](https://www.desertcart.tn/products/490042532-orion-motor-tech-thread-repair-kit-sae-and-metric-thread) --- *Product available on Desertcart Tunisia* *Store origin: TN* *Last updated: 2026-04-22*