---
product_id: 49376196
title: "Beckmann KB1TK1 Raised Pond Size 1"
brand: "beckmann"
price: "2269.94 DT"
currency: TND
in_stock: false
reviews_count: 13
url: https://www.desertcart.tn/products/49376196-beckmann-kb1tk1-raised-pond-size-1
store_origin: TN
region: Tunisia
---

# Solid wood slats 560L capacity 160 cm length Beckmann KB1TK1 Raised Pond Size 1

**Brand:** beckmann
**Price:** 2269.94 DT
**Availability:** ❌ Out of Stock

## Summary

> 🌊 Dive into Elegance with Beckmann's Raised Pond!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Beckmann KB1TK1 Raised Pond Size 1 by beckmann
- **How much does it cost?** 2269.94 DT with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Currently out of stock
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.tn](https://www.desertcart.tn/products/49376196-beckmann-kb1tk1-raised-pond-size-1)

## Best For

- beckmann enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted beckmann brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Easy Assembly:** Invisible wire rope connections make setup a breeze.
- • **Durable Design:** Crafted with impregnated solid wood and galvanized steel for long-lasting stability.
- • **Eco-Friendly Appeal:** Enhance your outdoor environment while promoting biodiversity.
- • **Versatile Placement:** Perfectly fits in meadows, woodland edges, or even on your terrace.
- • **Transform Your Space:** Elevate your garden aesthetics with a stunning raised pond.

## Overview

The Beckmann KB1TK1 Raised Pond is a beautifully designed outdoor feature measuring 160 cm in length, 100 cm in width, and 44 cm in height, with a generous capacity of 560 litres. Constructed from planed, impregnated solid wood slats and reinforced with thick, galvanised steel elements, this pond is both durable and visually appealing. Its curved shape seamlessly integrates into various outdoor settings, making it an ideal choice for gardens, terraces, and driveways.

## Description

Review: Lovely small pond. - Really well worth the money, only issue is that the instructions are in German but with a bit of patience it is soon worked out. Perfect for a smaller garden.
Review: otherwise excellent. Here's how to build it - The only reason for four, not five stars was the unintelligible manual, otherwise excellent. Here's how to build it, step by step. Practical Instructions for Constructing the Beckmann Garden Pool. Before doing anything decide if you intend to paint or stain the pool. If yes, then do this before assembling. Choose the best ‘face’ of the battens to form the outside of your pool. Make yourself comfortable on a low stool within a free area of about 2 metres by 1.5 metres. Stack the boards to your right if you’re right-handed. You will notice that two of the 71 boards have holes drilled through the face of the board as well as through the edges. Begin by taking one of these face-drilled boards and thread a steel cable through so that about 150mm projects through. Bend the cable back across the inside face of the board and fix it with a staple. This is only a temporary fixing to secure the end of the cable. Do the same with the other cable. Now thread a further five boards onto the cables, not forgetting to put a black, plastic spacer between each board. You should now have six boards lying flat in front of you with the first board to your right and the cables leading away to your left. Continue threading spacer and board in batches of five or six until you have a total of 34 boards threaded. Now thread on one of the two L brackets without using spacers. Thread the next board on, again without spacers, and continue with spacer/board until you have a further 34 boards threaded, counting from the L bracket. Now thread on the other L bracket, again without spacers. Next comes the last of the plain boards, no spacers, then spacers and the last board, which should be the other one of the two boards with holes through the face. (I had two spacers left over?) You should now have the two boards with face holes side by side as in Skizzle 5, (or diag. 5), in your instruction manual. Temporary tack the ends of the cables with staples. Stand the framework upright, but upside down, in a rough circle around you. Bring the two L brackets together and bolt them with the two small bolts, no washers. If you are siting your pond against a wall or backing onto shrubbery etc, (i.e. where the back of the pond wont be seen), push the four hex shank bolts through the four holes from inside face out, place the two plates on the bolts, then washers and loosely screw on the nuts. Free the top cable from one of the boards and feed it round the bolt, as in diag. 5, behind the bolt head, and tighten the nut with a spanner until the cable bites into the wood. Repeat with the bottom cable. Because your pond will be against a wall/fence or shrubbery the protruding bolts wont be seen. Now, working away from the bolted ends of the cables, push each board back against its neighbour, top and bottom, until you arrive back at the free ends of the cables. Use a pair of pliers to tension the cable and feed it around the adjacent bolt head as previously described. Double check there are no gaps in the framework and tighten the nuts. Repeat for the other loose cable. You should now have a fairly rigid framework ready to place in its final position. Before you do that, however, there are some points to consider; Whether standing on soil, gravel or pavings, the bottom of the framework will be in permanent contact with moisture. Consequently, the thing will eventually rot. My solution was to hammer one 25mm galvanised roofing tack into the foot of each alternate board, leaving the head projecting approx. 12mm. This will maintain a gap between board and paving. An additional problem was; once the pool was in position, how to contain the grit sand, (which must be laid under the pool liner), to stop it trickling away through the spaces between the boards? This was solved by cutting some old vinyl floor covering into 50mm wide strips and stapling them around the inside perimeter so that they formed a continuous barrier to contain the sand. The last job before righting the framework and moving it into position was to staple some foil backed foam, or similar, over any projecting nuts, wires or bars to protect the liner. Once the framework is in its approximate position, don’t be in too much hurry to fit the liner. Instead, let it stand for a few days while you get used to the idea. You are bound to re-arrange it slightly before you are happy with its final position. I moved my framework a dozen or so times, albeit small moves, before I was satisfied with the position. Once you are happy, pour a layer of grit sand into the framework making sure any projecting stones, sharp angles etc are covered. Now for the pool liner. Unfold the liner and, if possible lay it in the sun for a few hours to soften it. Fold the liner lengthways in the middle. Lay the liner on top of the framework, making sure it is equidistant from each end and the middle. Unfold the liner and make sure it is roughly covering the framework equally. I used a dozen cheap plastic clamps to hold the edges of the liner to the battens. Then, alternatively loosening the clamps one by one, allow the liner to settle until about a third of it is resting on the sand. Now use a hosepipe to start filling your pool, adjusting the folds as neatly as possible. You may have to stop the water flow periodically to make further adjustments to the liner. As the pool fills and the liner settles, move round the pool re-adjusting the clamps until the pool is about two thirds full. Now make the final folds in the liner as neatly as possible. Use the clamps to hold the folded liner. As my pool position was about three inches off the garage wall; and I intended to cover the back edge of the framework/liner with artificial grass, I tried to push the folds towards the back as much as possible. Once you are happy with the folds in the liner, continue filling the pool to within an inch of the top. Then trim the top edge of the liner with scissors, leaving about 3 inches of liner above the framework. Make any final adjustments to the liner folds then work your way round the framework, re-fitting the clamps as you work, folding in the top of the liner behind itself, so that you finish with a neat, folded top edge about one inch or so below the top of the battens. As I said before, I intended to cover the back edge of the framework with artificial grass, so I left the liner proud at the back, only folding and cutting where the liner showed. All that remains is to fix the screws and washers through the liner folds just above the water line. Job done.

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| Package Dimensions | 46.8 x 46 x 24 cm; 16.42 Kilograms |
| Part number | KB1TK1 |
| Manufacturer | Beckmann |
| Item model number | KB1TK1 |
| ASIN | B000UPGC4I |

## Images

![Beckmann KB1TK1 Raised Pond Size 1 - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61YpNX1nHiL.jpg)
![Beckmann KB1TK1 Raised Pond Size 1 - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41tb9AiXDXL.jpg)

## Questions & Answers

**Q: is it ready assembled and will flat ground with no stones do for placement?**
A: No it is not ready assembled, every individual piece of wood has to be threaded with a spacer and the liner is large and square and very tricky to place into a kidney shape.  The instructions are in German! No problem for us as hubby speaks German. You could try and follow the pictures but the instructions are for several different ponds so could take some time to work out which pictures are for the right pond. Needs to be placed on flat ground and layer of sand underneath is recommended to protect the liner. If you can work out how to put it together, it's a nice little pond for the price.

**Q: What comes with it?**
A: Wooden slats for the outside , wire cable to hold it together, 2 metal brackets and the pond liner. Not the easiest to put together as instructions are German but nothing but a bit of common sense and you can manage. Pleased with my one

**Q: How tall is the pond?**
A: Hi James...pond is about 20 inches (without me going in dark to look LOL)...it holds A LOT of water...put the fram/fence together, put steel frame in, carry to site, but it needs a slab/concrete base...when liner is roughly in place use a medium strength staple gun to secure it to the wood...a staple for at least every plank....when level fill it and add about v20 medium fish/plants etc...it's brill ! ! ! p.s. get a decent uv pump....cheers, Bill H

**Q: What is the water volume of this pond ?**
A: Very roughly 550 Litres . It's about 1.6m long 1m wide at widest and we filled it to admit 0.5 m deep

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Lovely small pond.
*by P***S on 20 June 2016*

Really well worth the money, only issue is that the instructions are in German but with a bit of patience it is soon worked out. Perfect for a smaller garden.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐ otherwise excellent. Here's how to build it
*by A***H on 31 May 2015*

The only reason for four, not five stars was the unintelligible manual, otherwise excellent. Here's how to build it, step by step. Practical Instructions for Constructing the Beckmann Garden Pool. Before doing anything decide if you intend to paint or stain the pool. If yes, then do this before assembling. Choose the best ‘face’ of the battens to form the outside of your pool. Make yourself comfortable on a low stool within a free area of about 2 metres by 1.5 metres. Stack the boards to your right if you’re right-handed. You will notice that two of the 71 boards have holes drilled through the face of the board as well as through the edges. Begin by taking one of these face-drilled boards and thread a steel cable through so that about 150mm projects through. Bend the cable back across the inside face of the board and fix it with a staple. This is only a temporary fixing to secure the end of the cable. Do the same with the other cable. Now thread a further five boards onto the cables, not forgetting to put a black, plastic spacer between each board. You should now have six boards lying flat in front of you with the first board to your right and the cables leading away to your left. Continue threading spacer and board in batches of five or six until you have a total of 34 boards threaded. Now thread on one of the two L brackets without using spacers. Thread the next board on, again without spacers, and continue with spacer/board until you have a further 34 boards threaded, counting from the L bracket. Now thread on the other L bracket, again without spacers. Next comes the last of the plain boards, no spacers, then spacers and the last board, which should be the other one of the two boards with holes through the face. (I had two spacers left over?) You should now have the two boards with face holes side by side as in Skizzle 5, (or diag. 5), in your instruction manual. Temporary tack the ends of the cables with staples. Stand the framework upright, but upside down, in a rough circle around you. Bring the two L brackets together and bolt them with the two small bolts, no washers. If you are siting your pond against a wall or backing onto shrubbery etc, (i.e. where the back of the pond wont be seen), push the four hex shank bolts through the four holes from inside face out, place the two plates on the bolts, then washers and loosely screw on the nuts. Free the top cable from one of the boards and feed it round the bolt, as in diag. 5, behind the bolt head, and tighten the nut with a spanner until the cable bites into the wood. Repeat with the bottom cable. Because your pond will be against a wall/fence or shrubbery the protruding bolts wont be seen. Now, working away from the bolted ends of the cables, push each board back against its neighbour, top and bottom, until you arrive back at the free ends of the cables. Use a pair of pliers to tension the cable and feed it around the adjacent bolt head as previously described. Double check there are no gaps in the framework and tighten the nuts. Repeat for the other loose cable. You should now have a fairly rigid framework ready to place in its final position. Before you do that, however, there are some points to consider; Whether standing on soil, gravel or pavings, the bottom of the framework will be in permanent contact with moisture. Consequently, the thing will eventually rot. My solution was to hammer one 25mm galvanised roofing tack into the foot of each alternate board, leaving the head projecting approx. 12mm. This will maintain a gap between board and paving. An additional problem was; once the pool was in position, how to contain the grit sand, (which must be laid under the pool liner), to stop it trickling away through the spaces between the boards? This was solved by cutting some old vinyl floor covering into 50mm wide strips and stapling them around the inside perimeter so that they formed a continuous barrier to contain the sand. The last job before righting the framework and moving it into position was to staple some foil backed foam, or similar, over any projecting nuts, wires or bars to protect the liner. Once the framework is in its approximate position, don’t be in too much hurry to fit the liner. Instead, let it stand for a few days while you get used to the idea. You are bound to re-arrange it slightly before you are happy with its final position. I moved my framework a dozen or so times, albeit small moves, before I was satisfied with the position. Once you are happy, pour a layer of grit sand into the framework making sure any projecting stones, sharp angles etc are covered. Now for the pool liner. Unfold the liner and, if possible lay it in the sun for a few hours to soften it. Fold the liner lengthways in the middle. Lay the liner on top of the framework, making sure it is equidistant from each end and the middle. Unfold the liner and make sure it is roughly covering the framework equally. I used a dozen cheap plastic clamps to hold the edges of the liner to the battens. Then, alternatively loosening the clamps one by one, allow the liner to settle until about a third of it is resting on the sand. Now use a hosepipe to start filling your pool, adjusting the folds as neatly as possible. You may have to stop the water flow periodically to make further adjustments to the liner. As the pool fills and the liner settles, move round the pool re-adjusting the clamps until the pool is about two thirds full. Now make the final folds in the liner as neatly as possible. Use the clamps to hold the folded liner. As my pool position was about three inches off the garage wall; and I intended to cover the back edge of the framework/liner with artificial grass, I tried to push the folds towards the back as much as possible. Once you are happy with the folds in the liner, continue filling the pool to within an inch of the top. Then trim the top edge of the liner with scissors, leaving about 3 inches of liner above the framework. Make any final adjustments to the liner folds then work your way round the framework, re-fitting the clamps as you work, folding in the top of the liner behind itself, so that you finish with a neat, folded top edge about one inch or so below the top of the battens. As I said before, I intended to cover the back edge of the framework with artificial grass, so I left the liner proud at the back, only folding and cutting where the liner showed. All that remains is to fix the screws and washers through the liner folds just above the water line. Job done.

### ⭐⭐⭐ Terrible german instructions
*by M***A on 9 July 2015*

Took ages to arrave. Terrible german instructions, had to buy extra bits to keep it together. Looks ok, not like on the picture though.

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*Product available on Desertcart Tunisia*
*Store origin: TN*
*Last updated: 2026-07-05*