---
product_id: 62104105
title: "BadAce Low-Profile Picatinny Rail NDT (No Drill-Tap) Scope Mount for Swiss K31"
price: "1179.89 DT"
currency: TND
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 8
url: https://www.desertcart.tn/products/62104105-badace-low-profile-picatinny-rail-ndt-no-drill-tap-scope
store_origin: TN
region: Tunisia
---

# perfect bore alignment 20-min no-gunsmith install rock-solid steel base nut BadAce Low-Profile Picatinny Rail NDT (No Drill-Tap) Scope Mount for Swiss K31

**Price:** 1179.89 DT
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 🎯 Lock in precision, skip the hassle.

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** BadAce Low-Profile Picatinny Rail NDT (No Drill-Tap) Scope Mount for Swiss K31
- **How much does it cost?** 1179.89 DT with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.tn](https://www.desertcart.tn/products/62104105-badace-low-profile-picatinny-rail-ndt-no-drill-tap-scope)

## Best For

- Customers looking for quality international products

## Why This Product

- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Low-Profile Design:** Sleek, minimalistic profile keeps your rifle streamlined and ready for action.
- • **Unshakable Stability:** Solid steel base nut locks your scope mount firmly in place—no wobble, no fuss.
- • **Reliable Shell Ejection:** Integral brass deflector guarantees smooth right-side shell ejection every time.
- • **Precision Bore Alignment:** Ingenious arc-shaped base ensures your scope is perfectly aligned for pinpoint accuracy.
- • **Effortless 20-Minute Setup:** No gunsmith needed—mount your scope with ease and get back to the range faster.

## Overview

The BadAce Low-Profile Picatinny Rail NDT Scope Mount for Swiss K31 offers a no-drill, no-tap installation that takes just 20 minutes without gunsmithing. Featuring a solid steel base nut and an arc-shaped design for perfect bore alignment, it ensures rock-solid mounting and reliable right-side shell ejection thanks to its integral brass deflector. This low-profile mount combines durability and precision for serious shooters seeking hassle-free upgrades.

## Description

LP (Low-Profile) version features a newly designed integral brass deflector that allows reliable shell ejection to the right Rock solid, no gunsmith required, easy installation in 20 minutes The ingenious arc-shape base design ensures perfect bore alignment for the scope mount Solid Steel Base Nut guarantees rock-solid mounting

Review: GREAT PRODUCT - HERE ARE A COUPLE OF HINTS - I ordered this picatinny scope mount and delivery was very quick. Mr. Feng at Blackace also answered my email the same day I sent it. I watched their installation and video and in that video they show an adjustable deflector. The 2.5 version of this product does not have this deflector. The 2.5 version has a built in deflector which is much better according to Mr. Feng. OK, now for the couple of hints which I promised. First, the list of materials that I used. Kroyl Penetrating Oil, a double faced (one face plastic, one face hard rubber) midweight hammer, a lightweight 2 oz. brass head hammer, a 5/16" quarter inch drive deep well socket, a quarter inch drive three inch extension, 1.5 mm pin punch, Wheeler FatWrench torque wrench, several dual ended Q-Tips (the ones I buy have a pointed end and regular rounded end), CLIP cleaner/lubricant and a small LED flashlight. Step one is to put one drop of the Kroyl on the steel pin holding the rear site in place then turn the rifle over and put one drop on the other side. Give the Kroyl a couple of minutes to penetrate around the steel pin. The Kroyl will make removing the steel pin much easier. After the Kroyl has done its job use the 1.5 mm pin punch and the small brass hammer to remove the steel pin holding the rear site in place. I found it easier to do this with my K31 on its side so I could use the pin punch vertically. If you do the same make sure that you make some arrangement to catch the rear site assembly. The spring under the rear site will then easily lift out. Step next. I elected to clean the area underneath where the rear site & spring used to be. My rifle had a lot of black almost gummy oil so I cleaned that entire area with the CLP and Q-Tips. I put one drop of CLP on a clean Q-Tip and spread a very thin lubricant coating on these hidden metal surfaces. Step next. Here is where the deep well socket and extension come into play. I had to tap the steel base nut to first get it all the way in that area formerly occupied by the spring. The 5/16" socket fits perfectly over the steel nut. I then tapped on the base of the socket rather than trying to strike the steel base nut itself. Once I had the steel base nut in all the way vertically I used the deep well socket with its extension in place. The end of the extension protrudes high enough and far enough that you can strike it without any fear of dinging the wood or the rear band. It took a fair amount of persuading to finally get the steel base nut all the way forward. Step Final. Use the LED flashlight to see when the picatinny base rail unit is properly positioned so that you can insert the steel pin back into place. I used the lightweight brass hammer to gently tap it back into place. Follow the threadlocker instructions about cleaning everything then apply thee threadlocker to the threads of the provided screw. I used a Fat Wrench and torque things down to 20 inch pounds plus another quarter turn of the screw. At this point your finished.Put the K31 back in the safe and go have a margarita to celebrate. The whole process took me around 45 minutes and there were no hitches that I encountered but it wasn't as easy as their time lapse edited video showed.
Review: Buy THIS, Follow the simple instructions, you'll be happy. - If you have a hammer/ mallet (small preferred) you can do this simple few minutes' installation. Comes with two sizes of star wrenches and Blue locktite. If you don't have a torque wrench, then get back on desertcart or Midway and get one. Order at the same time as the mount so you are not tempted to just hand tighten it. I used blue painters' tape under the mount at the contact point of the receiver instead of black electrical tape as the instructions suggest being that it acts as a tiny extra shim to ensure there is no movement or mess with the receiver finish. It's not required but I recommend it. Just cut it to slightly shorter than the length of the top of the receiver that's in contact with the bottom of the mount. 1" blue painters tape thumb pressed under the mount will curve into the mount and works perfect. Keeps the adhesive on the mount and not on the rifle finish and doesn't protrude out where its visible. **Okay, the part you actually care about: It works great! I had zero issues with fit, it's perfectly aligned with the bore, doesn't shoot loose or cause a sudden drift in point of impact after 75 rounds. If you spend the extra ten seconds to apply the BLUE locktie that comes with it or BLUE (not RED) of your choice, and you use a torque wrench I think you will find you too will have excellent results. -Another review mentioned you have to pick your rings and length of tube wisely. Very true, there is only two recess cuts in the aft of the rail before the ejection port cut starts. -Get low profile rings and even then, you might need a cheek pad. This rail sits high! -The tiny adjustable brass deflector is helpful... once you get it tuned. I HIGHLY suggest you use an empty case and cycle the bolt several times at the speed you would normally to find where the brass deflector should be set. Pencil mark it then locktite it, BEFORE you mount the scope into the rings. This will make access with the locktite and your wench much easier. For recoil reference I shot 15 rds of 110gr, then 40 rds of 168gr then another 20 rds of 175gr ammo, no wobble, no shooting loose.

## Features

- LP (Low-Profile) version features a newly designed integral brass deflector that allows reliable shell ejection to the right
- Rock solid, no gunsmith required, easy installation in 20 minutes
- The ingenious arc-shape base design ensures perfect bore alignment for the scope mount
- Solid Steel Base Nut guarantees rock-solid mounting

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B075NFCR7Z |
| Best Sellers Rank | #653,914 in Sports & Outdoors ( See Top 100 in Sports & Outdoors ) #2,039 in Sporting Optics Mounts |
| Brand Name | BadAce |
| Customer Reviews | 4.5 4.5 out of 5 stars (32) |
| Date First Available | July 29, 2016 |
| Item Package Dimensions L x W x H | 13.89 x 1.54 x 1.06 inches |
| Manufacturer | Ace Recreational Equipment and Services Limited |
| Package Weight | 0.14 Kilograms |

## Images

![BadAce Low-Profile Picatinny Rail NDT (No Drill-Tap) Scope Mount for Swiss K31 - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71mF4VgaRaL.jpg)

## Questions & Answers

**Q: Will this fit a swiss m1889**
A: I don't know it fits a K-31 great no problems you need to ask the bad ace co

**Q: Can stripper clips be used with this mount?**
A: No. It blocks the top of the ejection port.

**Q: is this mount for long eye relief/scout scope? thanks.**
A: No this is NOT for a long eye relief/scout scope. This is for a regular eye relief scope. 
We do have a scout mount for K31 too:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XJD59NQ

**Q: what are the dimensions of this mount**
A: 9-1/4” long, 1” wide and 3/4” from the bottom side of the mount to the top of the picatanny rail. There is only one cross bolt slot for the rear scope ring and two for the front, so you are limited for moving your eye relief. I have a 50 mm objective lense on mine, so I used high rings to give me less that an eighth inch clearance between the scope and the front of the mount.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ GREAT PRODUCT - HERE ARE A COUPLE OF HINTS
*by D***Y on May 28, 2019*

I ordered this picatinny scope mount and delivery was very quick. Mr. Feng at Blackace also answered my email the same day I sent it. I watched their installation and video and in that video they show an adjustable deflector. The 2.5 version of this product does not have this deflector. The 2.5 version has a built in deflector which is much better according to Mr. Feng. OK, now for the couple of hints which I promised. First, the list of materials that I used. Kroyl Penetrating Oil, a double faced (one face plastic, one face hard rubber) midweight hammer, a lightweight 2 oz. brass head hammer, a 5/16" quarter inch drive deep well socket, a quarter inch drive three inch extension, 1.5 mm pin punch, Wheeler FatWrench torque wrench, several dual ended Q-Tips (the ones I buy have a pointed end and regular rounded end), CLIP cleaner/lubricant and a small LED flashlight. Step one is to put one drop of the Kroyl on the steel pin holding the rear site in place then turn the rifle over and put one drop on the other side. Give the Kroyl a couple of minutes to penetrate around the steel pin. The Kroyl will make removing the steel pin much easier. After the Kroyl has done its job use the 1.5 mm pin punch and the small brass hammer to remove the steel pin holding the rear site in place. I found it easier to do this with my K31 on its side so I could use the pin punch vertically. If you do the same make sure that you make some arrangement to catch the rear site assembly. The spring under the rear site will then easily lift out. Step next. I elected to clean the area underneath where the rear site & spring used to be. My rifle had a lot of black almost gummy oil so I cleaned that entire area with the CLP and Q-Tips. I put one drop of CLP on a clean Q-Tip and spread a very thin lubricant coating on these hidden metal surfaces. Step next. Here is where the deep well socket and extension come into play. I had to tap the steel base nut to first get it all the way in that area formerly occupied by the spring. The 5/16" socket fits perfectly over the steel nut. I then tapped on the base of the socket rather than trying to strike the steel base nut itself. Once I had the steel base nut in all the way vertically I used the deep well socket with its extension in place. The end of the extension protrudes high enough and far enough that you can strike it without any fear of dinging the wood or the rear band. It took a fair amount of persuading to finally get the steel base nut all the way forward. Step Final. Use the LED flashlight to see when the picatinny base rail unit is properly positioned so that you can insert the steel pin back into place. I used the lightweight brass hammer to gently tap it back into place. Follow the threadlocker instructions about cleaning everything then apply thee threadlocker to the threads of the provided screw. I used a Fat Wrench and torque things down to 20 inch pounds plus another quarter turn of the screw. At this point your finished.Put the K31 back in the safe and go have a margarita to celebrate. The whole process took me around 45 minutes and there were no hitches that I encountered but it wasn't as easy as their time lapse edited video showed.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Buy THIS, Follow the simple instructions, you'll be happy.
*by J***Y on August 20, 2025*

If you have a hammer/ mallet (small preferred) you can do this simple few minutes' installation. Comes with two sizes of star wrenches and Blue locktite. If you don't have a torque wrench, then get back on Amazon or Midway and get one. Order at the same time as the mount so you are not tempted to just hand tighten it. I used blue painters' tape under the mount at the contact point of the receiver instead of black electrical tape as the instructions suggest being that it acts as a tiny extra shim to ensure there is no movement or mess with the receiver finish. It's not required but I recommend it. Just cut it to slightly shorter than the length of the top of the receiver that's in contact with the bottom of the mount. 1" blue painters tape thumb pressed under the mount will curve into the mount and works perfect. Keeps the adhesive on the mount and not on the rifle finish and doesn't protrude out where its visible. **Okay, the part you actually care about: It works great! I had zero issues with fit, it's perfectly aligned with the bore, doesn't shoot loose or cause a sudden drift in point of impact after 75 rounds. If you spend the extra ten seconds to apply the BLUE locktie that comes with it or BLUE (not RED) of your choice, and you use a torque wrench I think you will find you too will have excellent results. -Another review mentioned you have to pick your rings and length of tube wisely. Very true, there is only two recess cuts in the aft of the rail before the ejection port cut starts. -Get low profile rings and even then, you might need a cheek pad. This rail sits high! -The tiny adjustable brass deflector is helpful... once you get it tuned. I HIGHLY suggest you use an empty case and cycle the bolt several times at the speed you would normally to find where the brass deflector should be set. Pencil mark it then locktite it, BEFORE you mount the scope into the rings. This will make access with the locktite and your wench much easier. For recoil reference I shot 15 rds of 110gr, then 40 rds of 168gr then another 20 rds of 175gr ammo, no wobble, no shooting loose.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Select scope rings carefully
*by M***. on April 24, 2022*

The rear ring location has only one slot. Sore rings have features to engage 2 adjacent slots in Picatinny rail.

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*Product available on Desertcart Tunisia*
*Store origin: TN*
*Last updated: 2026-06-09*