Leviton SureSlide Dimmer Switch for Dimmable LED, Halogen and Incandescent Bulbs, 6672-1LW, White

I use this dimmer to control LED lights. It has been working perfectly with no flicker and smooth brightness adjustment.

Have several of these installed in different rooms with very different dimmable bulb setups -- they all work great at providing minimal flicker, no hum, dim-enough to full-bright, etc:1 - powering a bank of incandescent bulbs (6 total in 2 fixtures), these slightly hum and flicker at low dimness, but it's all on the bulbs.2 - powering 2x hardwired LED light-bar fixtures.3 - 3 LED socket-bulbs in a ceiling fan fixture.LOOKS & ERGONOMICS:Overall design can't get any sleeker in looks or function -- you just push it up to turn it on and keep sliding for brighter. The detent (between off/lowest) is silent yet just right to feel it clearly. There's no extra button, nothing else taking up space or cluttering the look or confusing newcomers... just one big, easy to see and find in the dark slider. And it has the option for an orange LED light that very dimly shines through the top of the slider (translucent plastic) when it's off, which makes it super easy to find in the dark, and is so dim and so warm-colored it shouldn't distract even light sleepers. Still, they let you turn this off if you prefer, using a tiny switch behind the face plate (it's off by default and I forgot to flip it before putting on the faceplate 3 of 3 times... d'oh!). Likewise, there's a setting dial under the faceplate to adjust minimum/max brightness, which was great for all 3 of my scenarios and allowed me to get the dimmest possible low settings I wanted.Overall, if you feel like it's hard to find a product designed for humans to actually touch and use intuitively, you'll like this and so will anyone new to your house or fumbling in the dark. I can't think of any way to possibly improve the product's look/ergonomics.BUILD QUALITY & INSTALL:The slider has a tiny bit of play in it before it crosses the detent, but otherwise it's very smooth and solid feeling. Nice. The brackets that attach to your workbox are in the "sturdy" category and don't bend much when tightening into a tight space unlike, say, really cheap outlets or switches that can easily deform just from cluttered wires in the workbox pushing back. The only drawback of this unit is it is much deeper/wider than a regular switch and you're forced to use wire nuts to connect to the permanent stranded cable leads (why do manufacturers not use solid wire to make joining to standard solid home wiring easier? maybe I'm ignorant of a good reason, but it's annoying) whereas a cheap basic flip switch you can often just slot or wrap your existing leads in. That said, while it's a little extra work, I appreciate knowing all the connections are protected inside wire nuts and nothing will accidentally push against a contact when finagling it back into the workbox, and is simpler for some of those daisy-chain ratsnest situations...OVERALL:Bought one, couldn't wait to add more, will keep converting rooms over time. As long as they last (longest use so far is about 6 months and counting), they got this one right across the board. And what a difference a dimmer makes in eye comfort, alertness before bed, invitingness of a room, etc. Good job Leviton... Your simple device was worth this much typing.

After replacing my old halogen track light heads with LED heads, I replaced the old dimmer switch with this one for LED compatibility. It was a relatively easy swap between the old switch and this one. The switch performs very well, from 100% to 10% (seems like even less to me). The only observation that seems to happen with this switch and a few other brands is that when the switch clicks to the off position and you look directly into the track lights the lights still have some phantom current causing the bulbs to have a faint glow. It’s like they do not turn off 100%. I would still buy it again if I needed another switch.

I've tried other dimmers that were listed as "LED Compatible" but always ran into flickering. This one is smooth as silk and goes from very dim to fully bright. Going to get another and replace one of my flicker prone units. I'm using it with this LED lighting fixture, works great: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BTLWX6JS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

I connected this dimmer to a chandelier loaded with 12x 40W incandescent bulbs (480W total). The dimmer was easy to install, looked fantastic, and worked incredibly well, but it made an intolerable buzzing/zinging sound that could be heard clear across the room. The noise was emanating from the dimmer, not the bulbs, and was audible at all dimming levels except OFF, though it was quieter close to 100% brightness. This is a real pity, because there is much to like about this dimmer. My previous, rotary-style dimmer did not make any noise at all with the same chandelier and bulbs.Buzzing seems to be an issue with many forward-phase triac dimmers under certain load conditions, and it can vary from one dimmer to the next, even within the same model. On the other hand, ELV/reverse-phase dimmers are silent due to their mode of operation, so I looked for an ELV dimmer to alleviate the problem. Unfortunately, Leviton's SureSlide ELV dimmers are only rated at 300W incandescent, so I bought a 500W Lutron Skylark Contour ELV dimmer instead, which works very well and is truly silent, but it cannot match the sleek and refined style of the Leviton SureSlide.Update: Months after disconnecting this dimmer, I decided to connect it up again and hunt for the source of the buzzing. The dimmer seems well enough constructed, but, to save cost, as with most dimmers, the inductor/coil is not varnished or epoxy-filled as it should be, which can certainly cause 60Hz/120Hz switching vibrations to become audible, just as a speaker coil vibrates in a magnetic field. So, I glued the coil, and the buzzing/zinging has now been greatly suppressed, reduced to a low hum, which I can only hear when I bring my ear close to the dimmer. It is vital to use the right glue. Varnish or epoxy would work best for this application, but it's supposed to be sucked through the coil in a vacuum to fill every gap, which is impossible now that it's installed in the product. The coil is wound two layers deep, so the glue needs to penetrate ALL the way through the windings, bonding the wire to itself and to the core, otherwise it may continue to vibrate deep inside. I used Loctite 420 Penetrating Superbonder, which has a dielectric constant close to that of air. This superglue is thinner than water, which allows it to be instantly sucked into every crack and cranny by capillary action. If you want to try this, first DISCONNECT the dimmer from the AC power, remove 4 tiny screws from the black plastic casing, slide the casing away, and apply the glue to the coil. But plan carefully to prevent glue from getting onto ANY other parts. It runs faster than water, so tip the bottle sparingly and do not squeeze! Apply at each end of the coil, close to the core, then run a stripe or two across the coil until the windings fill with glue without dripping out. Use an absorbent paper towel to catch any drips. If this glue gets near the slider potentiometer, the dimmer will be damaged beyond repair. Allow the glue to cure for 24 hours, then reassemble and reconnect the dimmer. I'm now using this dimmer again, and I'm much happier with it.

Was easy to install if you have basic electrician knowledge. Dims nicely. Exact same switch that is sold in Home Depot for half the price.

I got dimmable high quality bulbs for recessed lights, but flickering was still a problem. I tried these switches and it completely eliminated that problem. They were easy to install, simple to use, the switch slider has a nice, calibrated feel to it, and they look great. 10/10 would buy again.

Its a switch. It works when installed correctly