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ELEGOO ABS-Like 3D Printer Resin is a 1000g clear blue photopolymer designed for 405nm UV curing printers. It offers low shrinkage for high dimensional accuracy, ABS-level toughness for durable prints, and excellent fluidity for smooth printing and easy cleaning. Compatible with most UV LCD/MSLA/DLP 3D printers, it cures rapidly to deliver detailed, impact-resistant models ideal for professional and hobbyist creators alike.















| Customer Reviews | 4.7 out of 5 stars 3,320 Reviews |
N**O
Great post-processing color (stays white)
This is some good resin. I haven't strayed far from the brand that my printer (Nova3D Elfin2) came with, but I wasn't happy with their white. As shown in the photos after curing Nova3D's white turns almost a sepia color... if you will? This ELEGOO ABS-Like Rapid Resin stays white or at least a better shade of white. I posted a photo of an octopus, it's the test file that comes with my printer, that guy has sat outside for a few weeks at this point. Still just as white as ever. In the other photo, I printed some wall mounting brackets for my Bose SoundTouch monitor speakers. On the left is the Nova3D Resin and on the right is the ElEGOO ABS-Like. This stuff is great for printing lithophanes. It's successfully printed up to .1mm layer height (for faster printing). The Bose Bracket and the Octopus are both printed at .035mm layer height. Honestly unless you're looking and not-post processing, 99% of the things I print in resin now can be printed at .1mm layer height. A layer of paint covers up almost any layer marks, plus this stuff is strong. I will have to post a question to the maker.. I'm unable to dial in the perfect first layer settings.... Everything I try this thing sticks to the build plate like it was supposed to be married to it. I end up breaking the model by trying to force it off. The only way I've come around this was just put supports on everything, even the base, but with the Nova3D Standard Resin I didn't have to do that, it comes off perfectly (with just a tad force). I have been using the clippers that come with my printer as a trick to get the model to lift up, then once it's given up a bit of the adhesion I use the spatula... anyone recommend a new way? I'm new to resin (5 months)
K**S
Incredibly Reliable, Especially for the Price
First off, the gray resin in my opinion is the best at showing details on unpainted models or prints. :) The odor on this resin is extremely tame. I had worked in a paint store for 5 years and had been exposed to all kinds of industrial grade enamels, solvents, etc. This stuff isn't even as stinky as opening up a normal gallon of paint. High points there. I have it in my computer room where I prefer to reside for long hours, and have never been bothered by the odor, especially when the cover is on the printer. No smell. As for quality, I'm kind of blown away. I had printed a miniature for D&D, and didn't check the scale of the model. Base was supposed to be about the size of a quarter, but the overall height was less than a quarter's diameter. Despite the ridiculous tiny-ness of the model, details are still sharp and the stuff still holds together! He has a sword about as thin as a credit card's thickness and is still standing, even through snipping supports, swirling in the IPA bath, handling with no extreme precaution, etc. The price is extremely fair, in my opinion. You can buy approximately the same amount of material for FDM printing (1 spool) for about the same price, and FDM is known as the cheaper of the 3D printing technologies. 500g turns out to be a little less than half a liter, which has gotten me about a dozen D&D minis, as well as a 6-inch tall statue, with about a third of the bottle still left. Overall highly recommend. I will probably be buying the 1000g size next.
L**N
Works great
I wanted to print the dolphin and did. It is hard to get it super clear as the surface, when dry, looks hazy. I may not be getting it clean enough, but I think some work with the 3M headlight cleaning kit will do the trick. I am also going to turn off the anti aliasing feature of the slicer as that could be aggravating the problem as it may produce grey scale pixels instead of just on or off resulting in partially cured resin. The resin itself is great though, maybe a little more brittle than the pigmented ones, but very tough. Grey resin is great stuff. As you can see from the photo, it holds detail very nicely. I don't notice any smell. The clear red came out pretty nice, quite clear, nice ruby red. The flesh is a good flesh color, looks good. White was a little odd, it came out looking nice and white, but when I put it under a UV light for a final cure it turned a light tan. Maybe not clean enough, but I won't be final curing any more white.
H**E
Good resin for half the price of other popular brands
โขNew low-odor formula was recently implemented. (It's still gonna smell once you pour it in a resin tank, the fumes accumulate, and you remove the cover to retrieve your finished prints, so make sure to ventilate.) โขGray and White work out of the bottle with default print settings on the ELEGOO Mars UV Resin Printer. Black may need 200s Bottom and 15s Normal exposure โขResin yellows when cured with a lamp, not a problem if painting it. โขPrints clean up easily with 100% Acetone or 91% Ethanol, just swish them around in a small container until the excess resin residue sloshes off. Leaves almost no tacky feeling, just the "rubbery" handfeel of the soft half-cured resin itself. A few hours in the sun cures them completely to a hard finish. 70% Alcohol works fine too. The only difference I see between that and 91% is that the 70% takes longer to slosh away the resin and needs to be replaced or filtered more often. I assume how your models are designed play a large role in how sturdy they are, but I printed hollow, thin walled holsters for action figures and they are tough little pieces. I can't crush them between my fingers without significant effort. Solid objects print just fine too, long thin parts snap easily though. Take some time to learn how to orient and support your models so they can have the best print quality. For example, spheres print perfectly smooth, but ovals and flat surfaces could have a "stepping" effect in certain positions. And Always make sure overhangs and large flat surfaces have plenty of support, especially along the edges, or they will droop/fail.
D**G
Great quality as always
Great color quality, looks great, as expected.
S**D
A very good UV resin choice - high detail, decent strength, and a good price point.
This is my current go-to resin for most prints. I prefer the Grey, as it shows details fairly well, but I've used the other colors with the same results. Once I got got my printer dialed in for this resin, I've had dozens of build plates printed without a single failure. It's really good. Prints with this resin tend to be very highly detailed and reasonable strong. In smaller pieces, there is some brittleness, especially if you overcure, so I definitely try not to do that. It is very temperature sensitive, and I try to make sure my printing room is 80 degrees F for the best results. I clean with a 99 percent IPA solution, using a dirty and a clean wash, and this seems to do quite well with this resin. Most recently I have taken to mixing in 80% Elegoo ABS with 20% Siraya Tenacious - for any prints that I want to be extra durable, or have extra fine breakable parts. This does seem to bump up the durability, at a slight cost of detail, but with this mix most parts I can drop from my head to the floor without any breakage at all. At the price point it's currently at (1kg for $40), this is a very competitive and high quality resin.
B**Y
Good prints with this resin but preparation is key
This resin worked great. After having a tough time with translucent I was concerned. But, after a couple adjustments I printed some larger items that are weighty too. The prints came out great. Two pieces of advice; always wipe silicone on the top and bottom of the FEP and then wipe dry. You will save loads of time from stuff sticking to the fep. I do it every time I print. Secondly, use an ultrasonic cleaner with Mr green or similar. Run it once or twice for a few min. and then wash and throw the item back in for a long time to let the uncured resin come off without you having to scrub. Scrubbing reduces tiny details. Letting sit in the bath of Mr green for and hour or two has not damaged my detail at all. I had bad results with alcohol and it's expensive. Once detail is clean, cute and done. Hope this helps the new users.
J**T
Nice resin - good for beginners
I've used this a bunch of times and have had lots of good luck with it. I would recommend using it *hot*, as room temp of 70 and below it does seem to have some issues. I'm not the world's best resin printing person, but I have personally had good outcomes with this. Make sure you have ventilation - don't be a dummy.
L**M
Excelente producto
Excelente claidad
R**.
Exactly what I needed.
ok
S**N
Buen producto
Excelente producto
S**E
Good Quality resin
Good quality resin, exhibits the properties of ABS.
S**A
Buen producto
Excelente producto
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