BOSCH 15733 Premium Universal Fitment 4-Wire Oxygen Sensor with Installation Kit

This thick skull tried saving a few bucks on marble-filled sensors with about a 50% fail rate. I just buy Bosch now. Works every single time. I save a few bucks now buy buying universals and splicing in my connectors, but will never skimp on sensors now - wasted a ton of time with other knockoffs (install, remove, return.)

2008 BMW 335i with the N54 engine, bought this to clear a 2C7B code (secondary oxygen sensor fault). The splice kit is really nice, it takes about 30 minutes to splice into the BMW connector, at a much lower cost! I put about 300 miles on the car since i did this repair and the code hasn't came back.

My van is Sienna 2006. The error code was P0158 (bank 2 sensor 2 oxygen sensor). Location of the sensor is at the bottom of engine right under hood lock. The upstream sensor is on the upper front part of the engine, close to the hood lock. Bank 2 sensor 1 downstream sensor is just under the body of passenger seat with connector under the seat. To loose sensors, you need warm up engine for 3 to 5 minutes. When it is clod, it is impossible to remove it. When it is hot, it is very easy. Toyota sensor is type B in Bosch's document. The wiring mapping order is two blacks, one white, and one blue of Toyota sensor for two whites, one gray, and one black of Bosch respectively. Wiring may take a half hour or longer because you want to do it right at the first time. For 15 days and 1400 miles after the repair, no more check engine lights. The problem is fixed. Toyota sensor may be Denson OEM part and costs over $200. The labor costs $100+. It took me one hour and $50+ bucks. The above review was on Feb 28, 2010. As of now (Sep 24, 2012), more than two years and a half after, it still has no issue since the fix.

My 2005 Mercedes 230C failed smog inspection for the first time by .01% (the lowest fail percentage). Although the car ran fine, the "Check Engine" light had been on for a few months. After checking online for the "Fail Codes" listed on the Smog Test receipt, the codes pointed to the "Downstream o2 Sensor (Oxygen Sensor)" making the fuel mixture too rich. So I called a local Smog Repair shop and I was qouted $220 dollars to replace the part. My former brother in law who had his own auto repair shop told me long ago that mechanics get a 50% discount off list price of new parts, but always put the list price on your bill. So I ordered the part from Amazon, and had my local independent mechanic install it. I saved 70% from the original smog repair quote by doing it this way. This Bosch 15733 Oxygen Sensor came in Bosh box and with a Universal Connector plus Wiring Instructions. I think any weekend mechanic could handle the job within a few hours but.... I am getting too old to climb under a car anymore. The replacement requires Auto Lifts, a standard Open End Wrench, and Wire Crimping Tool. In my case the Universal Connector supplied Did Not Match the one on my car, so splicing the 4 wires to the original factory connector was required. The 4 wires consist of 2 signal and 2 grounds, and had the same color codes as my original wires. Once removed, the O2 Sensor appeared to have a small amount Black Soot around the base of part as a result of running too rich. After installation the "Check Engine" light went off. The one thing that I havn't seen in the Amazon Reviews is that my mechanic had to Re-Set the Car Computer. He also told me I had to drive 60 Miles More so that the car computer could re-evaluate the "New o2 Sensor" in full cycle. If you re-test right away, you will FAIL the Smog Test. This is because the car computer retains the old sensor data plus adds the new sensor data, and averages them both until the car computer re-sets again in 60 miles. After that I had the Smog Station re-test my car, and Pass it did. IMPORTANT: On my car there are both "Upstream" and "Downstream" o2 Sensors. Make sure you Evaluate The Smog Test Fail codes carefully and Order The Correct Failing Sensor. I hope my review helps, you Do It Yourself-ers should Save Even More!

I chose these sensors over the high cost of direct replacements. It is the exact same sensor that was on my car. It came with a 2 foot lead as discribed with some nice connecters. It has good instructions of how to install the sensor and connectors with how to make sure you attach the correct wires from the original sensor to the new one. The only issue I had was the location of the rear sensors on my 2002 VW Passat GLX V6. The space is very limited to get at the wires when trying to install the connectors. I ended up not using the supplied connectors. Instead I used spade connectors and heat shrinked the connection. I wanted to solder the wires but the space didn't allow it. If you have the ablity to completely remove the existing sensor and wire to either use the supplied connector or any other connecter that is water tight to keep the elements out so you won't short the sensor then this is great. I only installed them last night, so I can't say if it solved my error codes on the car, but I know with my scan tool that this was causing my fault codes. I glad I looked on amazon to find the sensor rather than dropping the money for the same sensor at the local auto store. I will use these again if I need too. Great find.

I didn’t know “universal” meant I’d have to wire it myself. Apparently don’t have the knowhow to do that because I thought I followed the instructions carefully, but after I installed the sensor the check engine light came back on even after I reset it using my OBD II scanner. Turned off the engine, restarted and reset it: still on. I’m ordering an unstream Delco one for $50 more, but worth it for direct replacement.

Works great

Cleared my P1118 P1114, P0138 codes for 1.8T 2001 Jetta.

キチンとしたBOSCHのO2センサーでした。 もともとついていたO2センサーのカプラーを使用するために、 こちらの製品に付属する防水コネクターを使用しましたが、ばっちり使えました。 動作も問題なく、車検にももちろん合格。 安くてすばらしいです。

Funciono perfecto para una aprilia mana 2009, solo que tuve que usar un conector de 4 pines en vez del smart link que incluye El cable negro es positivo señal El cable gris es negativo a tierra Los cables blancos son del calentador no importa en que orden, no tienen polaridad

Very good part. Easy to follow instructions.

No ha presentado falla desde su instalación en la salida del múltiple.

KTM125 DUKE2012年式に取り付けました。説明書きにM17のP1.5と記載がありますが間違いです。M18のP1.5です。 最初は中華のco2センサーを（2000円ぐらい…2回、1500キロも走ってないかな） 使用してましたが、またか❗️という感じで直ぐに壊れたのでこちらにしました。車では無くバイクですが元々KTM純正品がBOSH製らしいので、取り付け時の配線を間違わなければ全く問題無く取り付け出来ました。値段も中華より高いですが純正を買うよりかなり安くて安心は出来ます。