SprayMax 2K Glamour High Gloss Clear Coat | 2K Automotive Clear Coat Spray Paint | High Gloss Finishing Spray | UV-Resistant, Scratch & Gasoline Resistant | Professional Grade 11.8 oz

I grabbed this clear coat to clean up some curb rash repairs on my wife’s SUV and a couple scratches on my son’s bike. Shook the can for a good while, popped the activator, and sprayed in the garage with the door open and a fan going. The fan part matters. This stuff is strong. It lays down smooth and glossy if you keep the can moving. I did three medium coats about 10 minutes apart. I’m just a weekend guy, not a body shop pro, and it still came out looking pretty good. What made me glad was when my wife asked which wheel the damage was on and couldn’t tell anymore. i did notice it dries fast so you can mess up if you rush, but once you get a feel for it, it works reallly well.

I fixed the scratched paint on my pickup’s rear bumper and picked this SprayMax 2K Glamour High Gloss Clear Coat, 11.8oz, to seal the new base coat. I followed the directions, activated the can and sprayed multiple thin coats. The spray pattern is smooth, it flows out nicely without orange peel when I control the distance correctly 😃. Once fully cured, it delivers a mirror-like high gloss, matching my factory paint surprisingly well. It features UV protection, scratch resistance and gasoline resistance, perfect for exterior automotive repairs. I’ve driven for a couple months through sun and rain, the clear coat hasn’t faded or stained. Even minor rock chips hold up better than regular aerosol clear coats. This professional-grade can saves me from expensive body shop work. Great for DIY spot repairs. I’m impressed and will keep this in my garage

This 11.8 oz SprayMax 2K Glamour high gloss clear coat produces a stunning mirror finish on my car touch-up paintwork. The two-component aerosol design is easy to activate and spray right from the can without a paint gun. It flows out smoothly with minimal orange peel, and once cured, the coating is tough against scratches, gasoline spills and UV rays to prevent fading. I applied multiple thin coats, and the gloss stayed consistent on vertical panels with no sagging. After full cure, I was able to wet sand and polish it for an even deeper shine. Perfect for small collision repairs, motorcycle parts and custom paint jobs. The professional quality saves me the cost of a body shop for minor fixes. If you want salon-level clear coat results for DIY auto painting, this spray is fantastic.

This is a quality 2K clear cost - if you’re looking for the good stuff, stop here and get this. Used this for my motorcycle repaint job. It lays on nice and wet, super glassy and smooth after curing, and has given such a nice pop to the motorcycle. Dries smooth and clean to the touch, no tackiness and provides a very nice, hard protective coating. I did a green pearl color, the clear gives it incredible depth of color and polishes to a super high shine. Couldn’t recommend this product more.

Always a little nervous with 2K sprays, but this SprayMax clear has been great in my small home studio. I bought it to finish a custom guitar body for a client, since I don’t have space for a full compressor setup. The thing that really sold me is how smooth it lays down. I do three medium coats about 10 minutes apart and it levels out nicely, almost no orange peel on the flat areas. I wet sand and polish the next weekend and it looks like I used a proper gun setup. The gloss holds up under my bright desk lights and the color stays rich. My favorite moment was seeing that guitar on stage under LEDs and the finish still looked deep and clean 😄

I hope some other newbie like me will learn from my mistakes. But first: Pros: If you do it right, it comes out great and is easy Nice glossy sheen, no polishing or compounding needed Cons: Directions on can might not apply to your conditions (explained below) Learning curve involved When can gets low (but still feels like it has product) it might spit dry-spray First, the directions on the can say it is ideal to spray around 68d F, with 50% or less humidity. It then states to stay about 10" back and go slow. But it doesn't say if you are NOT spraying in 68d this doesn't apply, and you might need to get close and go fast, if it's warmer. My garage was 80d and "staying 10" back and going slow" was the exact WRONG thing to do. It resulted in "dry-spray" which means the paint starts to atomize and doesn't collect into a solid sheet on the panel, but dries in individual droplets. The result is extreme orange peel and a matte finish, instead of a glossy finish. 9hrs later I wet-sanded the clear flat, which caused some burn-through into the color paint, which then needed touching up. When I cleared the panel again, was sure to do it early in the morning when it was 69F in the garage... Well at that temp the paint stays fluid longer, so it went on like nice solid sheet, but ran and sagged after a few seconds, as now I was too close or went TOO slow for the temperature I was spraying in! ... 9hrs later wet-sanded the runs and sags until the panel was flat again. And finally I had it figured out.... cleared it in the afternoon when it was hot, but got close - about 4" - and moved fast. And THAT came out perfect. Matched the factory finish without any messing afterward. So how close you are, and how fast you move, is totally dependent on the temperature. This is "duh!" for experienced painters, but newbies usually follow what's written on the can. I wish the can would have said, "If it is not 68d but much warmer, you will need to move in closer and go faster." Also, I read many sites that said to do an initial "tack coat" (like is recommended with primer and base). You cannot 'feather' clear coat, or "apply a light tack coat." You will end up with severe orange peel. This paint has to go on in a solid sheet, where all the droplets combine or pool into one flat surface. Individual drops will each reflect the light in a different direction creating that heavy orange peel with a dull matte finish. You need a solid sheet to reflect the light evenly, to get that high gloss look. One annoyance - and maybe it was just me, but I found when the cans still had product but were low (maybe 1/4 full) I'd be in the middle of applying a second or third coat and suddenly the can would shoot aerosol with little paint for a split second, spitting dry-spray all over my previously perfect panel - which would result in me having to wait 8rs until I could wet-sand it flat and do a new coat. After that happened twice I stopped using cans once they felt like they were about 2/3rds gone. Maybe a quick spritz of a small repair area would be ok but I was clearing a fender panel in one case, and a bumper in another. Something to beware of anyway. So having done it wrong every way possible, and having to re-do it and re-buy the paint multiple times, (not to mention base when I burned through sanding the clear), I'd say that once you have the hang of using it in your particular conditions, it's great. And you might get lucky and use it right, right off the bat. But it can require 'practice' for newbies. Especially if painting a large area like a panel, vs a small area or something like a guitar. One tip I read that worked for me: After the can is activated the shelf life is about 48hrs - probably less in the heat. But if you put the left-over paint can in the fridge, it will stay a good long time (months, reportedly). I put one of my cans that was about half gone in the fridge and ordered more... when the new clear came 2 weeks later, I used the can from the fridge first by letting it warm up a couple hours in the garage. Then shook it a couple min and it was as good as a freshly activated can. And no, this isn't the can that spit. (I learned by then to not use any cans once they felt like they had about 1/4 product left.)

This clear coat is beyond belief. Being able to have 2K and a can is pretty awesome and it's simple. You simply push the red button on the bottom to activate the hardener shake the mess out of it and use it. It lays down beautifully. It has an immense amount of shine and it's easier than mixing clear to spray It's easy for small panels and there was zero yellow in it. I cannot recommend this enough.

SprayMax 2K Clear Coat is hands down one of the best aerosol clear coats I've used. It sprays evenly, leaves a deep, glossy finish that looks professionally done, and holds up well against chemicals, UV exposure, and everyday wear. The adjustable fan nozzle makes it easy to get smooth, even coverage, but since it's a true 2K product, you'll need proper safety gear and should plan to use the entire can once it's activated. It's more expensive than standard clear coats, but the quality and durability make it well worth the price.

Very good quality but pricy

good product , very stable finish

I used all kinds of clear product before but this one gave me a great results and I recommend it to everyone This product is the best in the market so far and it could be used as a finish clear protection on all kinds of surfaces it’s made in Germany. It could be used on metal, plastic, wood, glass and so on there are no instructions on the can how to use except for how long to shake it How to use this product to get the best and the professional finish just follow these general steps ATTENTION: first and foremost for your own safety and health make sure you have a well ventilated area and a decent room temperature then make sure you wear a good respirator 1-When you prepare the surface to apply this final clear coat make sure you wet sanded that surface with at least 2500 grit sand paper and 3000 is even better Use only fresh clean water for your sanding and take your time with the sanding because your final results entirely depend on a good sanding job 2- after the sanding wash if it is possible the surface with soap and water and then dry it with a new microfiber towel, if you can’t wash the surface then wipe it with a clean wet towel then dry it 3- now the surface is ready, shake the can for a good couple minutes then shake it again for another couple minutes after when you bush the hardener through Place the surface upward of it is possible that will give you a great result then start to spray on a pice of cardboard first to bring out any air or bubbles in the line and that way you get a perfect flow Start so spray the first coat in a sweeping motions right to left and left to right If you can place the surface upwards the make the sweeping motions just a little faster and overlap 50% of each motion 4- wait at least for 10 to 15 minutes depending on the room temperature before applying the second coat 5- it depends on the results and the surface you have for how many coats you need to apply but you have to apply at least three coats Each coat will bring the finish to finer look and remember don’t sand between the coats 6- leave the surface to cure after that last coat for at least 24-48 hours depending on the condition of the temperature and humidity so don’t touch or cover the surface after that enjoy a hard well protected finish from scratch or sun and the UV for so many years to come That is all and hopefully this was a good information That is how I used it and I got amazing results and if you have better methods I love to hear it as well

El envío llegó un día antes de lo estimado y el producto por si sólo es garantía aunque un poco caro por la naturaleza del mismo, ya que es normalmente vendido en E.U. Se usara en el ramo automotriz. Ya probado previamente. Muy recomendable tanto el vendedor como el producto.

This clear coat is the best clear coat for headlight restoration. It is very forgiving but DO NOT OVER APPLY AS IT WILL RUN. For best result shake the can for 2 minutes and then pop the bleeder and shake it again to mix the 2k in. (If your doing headlights you will want to do 2 to 4 coats. 5-10 minutes between each coat depending on humidity. I did it in my laundry room which is very dry I waited 10 minutes between each coat and it looks amazing. Coat number 1 is super light just enough for the paint to bond and adhere to the headlight. Coat 2 a little bit heavier For the last coat no matter if it’s 3 or 4 that one has to be the heaviest without running. This clear coat is amazing and with proper prep it makes the headlights look like new. Only one problem but you can’t blame the paint for it, the paint only lasts about 24 hours once the bleeders popped they say up to 48 hours if kept refrigerated. 24 hours is the longest I’d say the paint is good after that you’re pushing your luck. I’d say with 2-3 coats you could probably do 4-6 headlights depending on how heavy your going. Here’s the sanding steps I used it’s a lot but these sand paper steps are the best results I’ve gotten. 3M (sand paper only) P320 (50 percent faster sanding) (only needed if the factory clear is holding on, wipe with iso after each sand to see if you’ve missed anything) P600 (start here if the clear is all gone and the headlight is yellow) P800 (refine 600 grit scratches) P1000 (refine 800 grit scratches) P1500 (refine 1000 grit scratches for a super smooth surface to the touch) P2000 (refine the 1500 grit scratches for a super smooth not super orange peely finish) I 100% would recommend this product as I have now purchased it 3 or 4 times. It’s great because when you restore headlights on a vehicle it completely changes the look of the car. 5 out of 5 could not be more pleased. P.S this paint self levels and gets better looking with time (after about 12 hours your safe to touch it but I wouldn’t reinstall them until about the 24 to 36 hour mark.