- Lighting SF76/648 Transitional One Light Landscape in Bronze/Dark finish, 12.50 inches

Had two similar accent light til one broke. Ordered two of these. Electrician commented on the quality and asked if they were purchased from a lighting, warehouse. Very pleased!

Matches currently existing uplight fixtures. Rain proof.

This is a nice unit that I am using for landscape lighting from my soffit on my house. It is a copy of a RAB light that is nearly twice as much money over at "prolighting" website. I wanted it in white, but I guess I'll paint it. I couldn't find a mounting plate to buy with it here on Amazon, but I can pick one up at Depot or Lowes. Mild inconvenience. Should certainly be offered however.One important thing that another reviewer noted. I will restate it as well. The shield, or "visor" has a metal grate and glass plate on it to help waterproof the unit. If you want to use a compact fluorescent flood to save energy, as i do, you CAN NOT fit a par 38 CFL flood I this unit. The bulb is too tall. It hits the glass and the shield cannot be put on after the bulb is in place. The only choice is a smaller br 30 or par 30 bulb, which is not nearly as bright of course. If this isn't a problem, great, but I want more light to shine on a large tree in the front yard. The only choice I have is to break out the glass and take a grinder, or a dremel to the metal grate and remove it. Not a big deal for me because I have the tools, , but extra work and it negates the waterproofing aspect of it.Just thought you should know in case you run into the same issue. I'm certainly not running a standard 125 watt par38 halogen in this thing all night long with the cost of electric these days. I'm mounting three of them and 375 watts all night, every night isn't going to happen. I have no idea if par 38 LED floods would fit, but I'm not ready to spend 40+ bucks a bulb to find out. Maybe when they're 20 bucks ill think about it.Update: 10/8/12; my plan worked. I removed the visor from the unit, placed it on the ground on a piece of plywood, pointed side up, and took a hammer to glass. (Work gloves and safety glasses of course). Incredible strong glass. The glass popped out in one piece after the adhesive let loose. Strategically used the hammer to break loose the metal grate. A few sharp pops where it connects to the edge of the visor. After it came out, used an angle grinder to smooth out the remaining sharp edges. Lastly, since mine are pointed up at a slight angle toward the trees, I needed some way for the rain water to drain from the main cone housing. Used a 5/16 inch drill bit and drilled 5 weep holes around the base of the unit near the arm. Now the water has a way out. 125 watt equivalent CFL flood using 23 watts now fits. Problem solved. An extra 10 minutes of work per unit for decades of energy savings. Well worth it.

I really like these lights. The shroud is difficult to get off as previous comments indicate. After damaging several of these units, I finally found a solution to removing / separating the cowl (lens portion) without damaging the base (bulb portion). The short answer is two 6" strap wrenches, one on the cowl and one on the base. Here's some tips that I discovered: 1. Before the first time you push the cowl into the bases, wearing a latex or silicone glove, spread a generous bead of silicone "O-Ring" lubricant around the two o-rings on the cowl. This will make it easier to insert the cowl, and make it easier to separate them when the bulb burns out. When you insert the cowl into the base, excess grease will come out. Wipe it off with a rag, but be aware that more will seep out over time and you will end up with a strip around the crease between the two pieces. It’s worth having the stripe. 2. To remove the cowl from the base, a) position the first strap wrench oriented so you're pulling backwards towards you to engage the wrench, but don’t pull it yet. (I use Par 38 housings so 4" won't fit. 4" might be good for par 30 or par 20). b) Position the strap just behind crease. c) Position the other strap wrench oriented so you’re pushing away from your body to engage the wrench. Put it as close to the crease between the cowl and base as possible without covering it. Now, each strap wrench should be on either side of the crease. d) If you have a helper, have him steady the base as you move to the next step. e) Push the handle of the wrench forward away from your body and use the same amount of force to pull the wrench on the base towards your body. Using equal amounts of pressure at the same time will stop the lamp from moving and cracking the mounting rod. f) Once you get the cowl to let go of the base, keep pushing but start to add some outward angle to slowly pull the cowl from the base as you’re turning. Continue to apply equal pressure to the base handle that you’re pulling. The o-ring grease should be helping you push to turn and angle away from the base. g) place the cowl with the lens down on a clean flat surface, so dirt doesn’t get on the o-rings. h) Change the bulb. i) wearing a silicone or latex glove, put another generous bead of o-ring grease all the way around the o-rings. Repeat the above as necessary. It’s worth going through this because I’ve never found a better waterproof Par 38 lamp holder.

good flood light, but the O-ring in it to seal the lens is rubbish, they did not put any grease on it.So after opening it to replace bulb, the O-ring is shot, and you have to caulk it....

You only get what is pictured. You will need to pick up a box and top cap, a rocket post or a gard-n-post (my favorite). I knew this from other reviews and still a good buy for under $20. Dark bonze is accurate to the true color. Seams like a good seal on the weather proof lens, which slides on and off easily but seals nicely. A bit tough for big hands to change bulbs as the narrow bulb recedes down in a bit. If you take your time to get bulb lined up just right it will thread in pretty easy, I would not suggest over tightening, as it may be hard to unthread. The Sylvania bulbs I picked up (14502 50 watt par 20 narrow flood 30 degree and a 14500 50 watt par 20 10 degree) have ridges around the outer edge which proves to be a huge plus with this fixture. Overall I like it and is very low profile. I mounted it about 4 feet in front and at ground level to illuminate a fountain and it works great and is barely noticeable compared to some models I looked at. With the 30 degree bulb lights up the 27" wide and 36" tall fountain very well and a little spills left and right on the rock garden. Has stainless screws to lock in vertical adjustment and on the rear to hold in the socket, which is replaceable, like that. Overall a good buy.

Very well built light at a very decent price. Installed one outside for Xmas with a PAR 23 11W LED beam and despite freezing rain, snow, and else it is holding on and dry (ensure lens frame drain hole is facing strait down, it works for me up to -28C with only the small amount of heat generated by the LED bulb). It looks very slick and clean as well and I got but just positive comments about it. Paint seems to old on despite the harsh environment I have exposed it to for the last 2 months. Just grease the O ring for easier reinstall of the lens and its future removal (years with a LED bulb). Very satisfied!

Used this outside with a Philips Hue Par20 bulb. Fits perfectly inside and no need to find an expensive Philips Hue exterior bulb. Will purchase more for sure

this light is perfect replacement to light up a dark space

Great fixture for landscape lighting with LED lamps & very reasonable price.

Great quality!!! Good seller