Smith & Wesson Extraction and Evasion SW671 15.9in Full Tang Tomahawk with a 3.9in Steel Blade and TPE Handle for Outdoor, Tactical, Survival and EDC

Intro:This is probably the most durable tomahawk you will ever find on a budget. Out of all the tomahawks I've owned, this one is my favorite so far. I've literally beaten the crap out of this thing over, and over again and it just keeps going! I've managed to chop through many full sized trees with it too (not an ideal tool for the job, but a little determination can go a long way).Steel:This tool is one solid piece of steel, which makes it nearly indestructible! On top of that, it is made from 8 mm thick 1070 high carbon steel. This was a very nice touch - You get a balance of durability and edge retention. Through my comparisons with 1055 carbon steel, this one is much better suited for chopping. As of now, I've only seen one significant nick in the edge about 1mm in size (from who knows what). I would recommend wiping this down with oil if it ever gets wet; carbon steel has a tendency to rust. However, I have not noticed any rust stains from regular use.Edge/spike:The edge is more of a utilitarian edge, meant for breeching - Very strong, but not as sharp as most tomahawks. The weight/edge shape is very good for splitting smaller logs for kindling. It could be honed to meet the needs of other tasks, but that's up to you. Also, the spike is very nice, and similar to the Vietnam tomahawk. It's not sharpened at all, but the geometry is well suited for busting concrete.Grip:The grip is Kraton, which I've seen used on SOG knives and other tactical styled blades. It's held up well under the rough conditions I've put it through, but I would prefer something else that looks nicer. Also, there are about three ergonomic griping positons on the handle, which also allow for a two handed grip. Both Kraton slabs can be removed for cleaning once the 8 screws are removed. Personally, I wrapped mine with a layer of 550 paracord. This ensures I have a solid grip, and no shock transfer from the handle.Conclusion:This tool is absolutely amazing! It feels like a hatchet and looks like a tomahawk. Not only can you chop wood, you can break concrete, bust through doors, dig a fire pit, use it as a climbing aid in the woods, and fight with it as a last resort. The amount of power you can achieve from a single swing will destroy just about anything it hits. If you think you can handle the weight, I would highly recommend this tool!

First, ask yourself what you want this t’hawk for? I see some folks complaining, “too heavy to carry.” If you are looking for an axe/hatchet for camping/backpacking/canoeing, there are better options out there. I would suggest a folding Sven Saw (less than a pound), and a stout camp knife for batoning wood. Leave the axe/hatchet for when you’re taking the mule train. Sven Saw uses less energy, and is quiet, too. It doesn’t attract Big Foot, like chopping wood ; ) Sven Saw is safer to use in wilderness when far from an emergency room. Think cooking/camping fire; not timber logging. I keep an axe in the truck for blow-downs, and such, but that’s an axe, not a t’hawk. Still want a hatchet for the woods? Fiskars 7850 is a light weight woodsman hatchet, and gets good reviews. Both Sven Saw, and Fiskars 7850 are available on Amazon.com.If you plan on using this as a tactical/defensive weapon, I suggest you get some martial arts training, or at least study Cold Steel’s DVDs on the subject. When you raise up to swing a t’hawk in an overhand swing you can leave yourself vulnerable to counter attack. Unless you’re into counting coups, or some crazy stuff, there are probably better weapons, and lighter/faster t’hawks made for that purpose. “Evasion?” If I had a good knife I’d probably lose the ‘hawk to reduce weight and travel fast.I do keep a short handled t’hawk in the truck for a different, ‘E,’ “Escape.” I don’t trust the glass breakers on knives, or, that I won’t slice an artery using them, if I ever go in the drink and have to escape from my vehicle. I will admit that a rock collector’s/geologist’s rock hammer would probably work just as well. This t’hawk may be a little long for escape, and getting a full swing from inside a vehicle. Check with your local laws about carrying a t’hawk in the cab of your vehicle.I think the best use of this ‘hawk is for the first, ‘E,’ “Extraction.” This would make short work of breaching glass, doors, locks, door frames, etc. This would be great in combo with a good pry bar. Nice, long, full tang, one piece handle. The 1070 tool steel should be tough enough to handle what you throw at it, and is one of the better steels I have seen S&W Knives use on its tools. This t’hawk seems more suitable for breaching/demolition; not a blade to send wood chips flying, like a felling/woodsman axe. But, it could be pressed into service for light bush craft duties if the need arose.S&W 671 E&E Tomahawk is a great ‘hawk to keep in the truck in case you come upon an accident scene where folks are trapped inside their vehicle, or trapped by rising flood waters, or your neighbors are away, their house is on fire, and you can hear the dog scratching at the door trying to escape. Keep one in the basement in case you get trapped by tornado debris. This is a purpose designed tomahawk, and appears well made for its purpose. Full tang, no weak points, such as handle attachment. Like your Scoutmaster always said, “Be Prepared Scout.”

Entry/Exit tool. Think steel doors and cinder block walls, cement, heavy plywood, even pry bar in an emergency.NOT so much for camping or hiking or throwin or cqc.This is a heavy dangerous tool. It is sharp on both ends and it will cut you and puncture you if you are careless.I bought this for getting into places and getting out of places. that's its purpose and so far I love it. I did paracord the handle for a heftier grip, the stock grips are just a little thin for me even with my gloves on.I'd recommend this for anyone needing a beefy breaching tool but not for those wanting a combat hawk or a throwing hawkIt's a tool, not a toy.Also, for brand snobs, this is made by Taylor Tool. The same ppl who make Shrade and Uncle Henry. don't buy it because it says S&W on it. Most S&W knives and such are made by Taylor Tools and are marginal quality in some cases. The secret it to know your materials and to buy products with the quality materials and design that fit the needs of the job.This is one solid piece of 3/8 inch 1070HC steel.it will break but not easily.UPDATED 1/4/16I discovered a beautifully finished steel under the coating. I goofed up removing it and was left with some serious scratches.I used a 400 grit, which works well as a starting point on my 1095 knives, should have used a stripper and 1600 (max) grit. I can remove the scratches over time, I think.My idiocity aside, there is a beautiful piece of steel under the coating.

You can feel power when you hold it! I feel like I can chop the earth to 2 pieces. It is a full tang tomahawk, so you don't really need to worry about breaking it when use. The handle is covered by two piece of material like rubber, my personal worry is maybe the "rubber" would be pill off if I drop it on hard surfaces. Generally is really nice

薪割りとして購入いたしましたが、大きさは手ごろな感じで重さも重すぎないので女性の薪割りにも使用できそうです。グリップの部分は少し振り上げてから下ろすまでですべる感じがありますが、メカニックグローブみたいなので握ることを考えると太さはちょうど良い感じです。個人的には満足しています。

Great product. Need swords of this calibur on the market for zombie apocolypse purposes😂👍

重さについて質問し、いろいろお教えいただいた上で購入しました。選定の条件の一つは耐久性を期待してフルタングなのですが、頭部と柄が異素材の物に比べて重心が不必要にハンドル寄りになり、斧としての重量バランスが悪いというデメリットがありますし、柄の部分の余分な肉により総重量が余計に重くなるため、携帯時の負担となることはもちろん想定内でした。それでも本商品の購入に至った理由は、山で活動時の携帯を考慮した際邪魔にならない範囲でできるだけ長い物が欲しかったからです。本商品も頭部からハンドルまで厚みがほぼ同一のまま肉があるので主に柄の不必要な部分を強度に影響のない範囲で肉抜きをする予定で購入しました。

A rock solid piece of metal. Sharp edge. The spike will penetrate whatever you want. Its heavy but one hit will end anything organic. Choke up a bit like a baseball bat if you can't swing it.A good piece of kit!!!!