VEVORMag Drill Press, 1550W 2" Boring Diameter, 2922lbf Power Magnetic Drill, 500 PRM, 10-Speed, Electric Drilling Machine for Metal Surface, Industrial and Home Improvement

No reverse on this model (D8860). Older more common Weldon shank. Comes with a inexpensive twist drill chuck. This will have limited use for those ( even regular jobber bits) unless you can get more distance from the base. They need to sell some cooling fluid, hard to find less than a gallon,(which is half the price of the drill).This does not has a switch on the bottom to shut off if it comes loose ( metsl.too thin, dirty). Note: some other brands don't have one either. Mine was missing a 2.5mm hex wrench.. Wish there was on-board wrench storage. Went to the dollar store and got a small box for accessories.

This mag drill works great at half the price of evolution.

On time , As described, functions as it should. Great buy for the guy who needs a magdrill at home. For the price it's a great buy in my eyes just have my own at home for my personal projects ams repairing my equipment.

I order this magnetic drill to make a heat treat machine into a 53 foot trailerWe made a base from 6x 2 x 3/8 c channel andNeed to drill 1” holes for the mounting hardware we drill 16 holes with no issue and with the speed pot you can run this drill slow enough that you don’t burn your cutterI was amazed on how easy went true 3/8 material and how cool ejects the left over slug when is doneHighly recommended *****

Vevor has a number of similar mag drills listed on Amazon; this review is for the orange 1550W non reversible Weldon bit attachment and variable speed. The up and down travel is limited for use with a 3 jaw chuck and standard drill bits. Mine arrived without any damage which is surprising for how heavy it is. The runout with a dial indicator on the outside of the shaft was better than expected 0.002” overall, the inside diameter runout was the same. I managed to reduce the inner runout to 0.001” by polishing the bore with a Dremel and rubberized abrasive. I guess I was lucky the material needing removal was opposite one of the set screws. I marked the setscrew that needs to be tightened first to minimize runout.Then I raised the motor attachment points by removing the e clip on the handle pinion shaft and sliding the shaft toward the handle end to disengage the rack. It didn’t want to come apart until I loosened up the gibb adjustments. I turned the aluminum dovetail motor carrier part end for end, after making two new dowel pin counter bores. I also had to turn the rack around, requiring three new holes.Then the power cord to the motor was too short with the motor in the top position; but I really didn’t like the plastic wire gland sticking out the top and moved it to the side. I turned the black plastic top 1800 degrees and repositioned the gland where the cord would just clear the frame in the down position. The gland was m12 x 1.5 which is fairly standard and the plastic cover is thick enough to thread.Then I the power cord sticking out the back was less than optimal and moved it to the top of the control box as far back from the motor gland as I thought practical. The power cord gland is m15 x1.5 which isn’t common, but taps are available on Amazon. While I had the control box open I scraped the paint off the inside where a FET was screwed to the case and added some thermal paste to promote cooling.It is variable speed, but does not have a feedback circuit for constant RPM. It would be nice if it were reversible.The magnet didn’t get too warm while I was testing it for a couple of hours with it attached to an inch thick steel plate. It probably will get hotter on thin material; that is just the way electromagnets work. A vast improvement would be to make a variable magnet circuit to allow easy positioning. Now it’s all or nothing; I might dig into the schematic and see if I can make the magnet variable.

This drill cuts very well through heavy plate steel. Used this today and it cuts very nicely through 1.5” plate steel to make a yoke adapter for my tractor. I look forward to using this drill again tomorrow to cut the two other holes to complete the adapter.

When assembling I could not attach the drill chuck. I bought it for drilling with twist drills. First of all there is not enough room under the spindle for the chuck and drill bit even when the spindle is fully raised.To fix that I inverted the quill so the motor is near the top where it should be. That required disassembly and machining two new index pin locations for the motor.I then mounted the Weldon threaded adapter for the chuck. I found the chuck threads on the adapter (1/2"-20) don't match the chuck (M18-1.5). To correct I will buy an M18-1.2 bolt, cut to length, drill & bore it to .002" smaller than the threads on the adapter. I will heat it and drop in onto the adapter for an interference fit.I tried to get it exchanged but that is not offered and probably another one has the same problem anyway. I see posts of the same problem with the chuck not fitting. So I am fixing it myself. You may have to take the parts to a machine shop for fitting.

Well built. Great value.