Stinger Audio MT15001 Compact Digital Class D Monoblock 1500W RMS Car Audio Subwoofer Amplifier with Remote Control Bass Knob, Bass Boost, HEXFET MOSFET, Low-Pass Crossover, Subsonic Filter

This amp exceeds its rated power. I wired it 2 ohms for tighter response and a closer wattage for my subs. It MOVES them. Be sure to set the gain properly! The remote bass knob is a huge plus for a amplifier in this price range. Coming from a old basshead the class d amps outperform my old a/b by far for subwoofers. The low amp draw per watt is a huge relief on the electrical requirements vs old. I still upgrade the big 3 (or 4 if needed) because I always have that tendancy to "turn it up" every now and then. Great amp Amazing price per watt, stellar performance for budget with premium power.

Must have mighty things do come in small packages Iv ran everything from Orion hcca 15 at 1ohm insane lows now run two kicker L7 12 in my G37 coupe trunk with kicker line level to RCA with auto turn on very clear and punchy bass and amp gain barely up and not a huge power draw cause it has really decieent caps in the amp very well built I swapped out skar 2000rms for this best investment in car audio in over 30years in the buiesness get before they change there quality cause they trying to impress cause new to the amp market

I got the STINGER MT-1500.1 to power two 12" subs in my Ram 2500, where space is super tight under the rear seat. This amp’s compact size was a lifesaver—it fits perfectly without sacrificing any room. Despite its small footprint, it delivers insane power, driving my subs with deep, clean bass that rattles the cab without distortion, even when I crank it up. Installation was easy, and it runs cool during long drives. For the price, this amp is a steal and ideal for anyone needing big sound in a small package. Highly recommend for truck setups like mine!

These amps are amazing. TOTALLY Underrated. They flat out perform. Very responsive to all of the controls. Pass all of the load test with flying colors and headroom. I bout the 1000w and the 1500w. Cannot believe the price point. Get yours before the word gets out and the price skyrockets. Update: I have been running the 1k for a week now and MAN O MAN!! This thing puts out so much power, it bottomed out a new set of Fosgates at 2ohms. Barely had the gain set to 1/4. A little under TBH. And the bass boost to a little less than 1/4 and Hz set to about 45. SLAMMED so hard I bought an additional 1k watt amp just to put on reserve. Insane Value. PLEASE gets your ASAP.

I bought this amp to switch out my Rockford fosgate 750 watts that's pushing 2 15 inch Rockford p3's. The fosgate 750 worked perfectly no issues then I installed this stinger amp to get more power and it constantly goes in to protect mode! I've had other professional installers look at it and the conclusion was the new stinger amp I just bought was defective! So save you money and don't buy this junk!!

I think I got a bad batch. I previously ran a Taramps Bass 1200, with 0 issues whatsoever. Unfortunately, I stripped the screws out of the bridge terminal, and I could not replace it. So, I ended up giving this amp a try. I have it grounded directly to the unibody frame, with high quality 4 gauge OFC wiring, paired with a 150 amp fuse (what they recommend). This amp constantly goes in and out of protect mode. It did it only a little at first, which made me think it was a ground issue. But after re-locating the ground 3 times on very solid spots, the issue has only gotten worse. Mind you, I have a big 3 kit with a 150 amp alternator, and a high farad capacitor. My voltage rarely dips below 12.5 at idle, max volume. So, it’s definitely not a power delivery issue. I even tried it without the capacitor to see if it helped, and it didn’t. It’s definitely something internal in the amplifier. I also checked the RCA output voltage coming out of my line out converter, and it hovers around 2 volts. Any amp should be able to take that just fine. My subs are 2 Skar SDR 12’s, which are 1200 watt RMS at 1 ohm. I checked the resistance with a multimeter to ensure that my subs weren’t blown, and it shows around 1.5 ohms (some of it is box rise). No crunchy sounds when I press on them, so it’s definitely not my subs. I hope they can send a replacement unit, hopefully with improved internals. Because it does feel like a good quality amp, at least on the outside. If things do change, I’ll update my review.

Amp performs as it should and put out more than the rated power . Unlike a lot of amps that are sold for lower price this amp doesn't get customer by using shock labeling . You know the 5000 watt max but 2x30 amp fuse set up use to play on unknowing customers . The label is the rms and puts out around 1700 plus rms dyno tested in a pinch . I have it pushing 2 900rms dual 4ohm 12 inch tornado subs wired to 1ohm that I got for $100 each in a $90 rhino box on my budget build and it out performs and sticks with the best of them at a fraction of the cost . Wired with 4gauge on my stock alternator in a 2019 jeep with 1 farad cap for back up and no big 3 upgrade . Will upload photos later

Watch Wilson labs dyno the 2000w version and the efficiency at 2ohms was amazing so I bought a 1500. Amp is small and feels like it's built well. Highly underrated! Definitely worth the money

Don't let the price fool you. this amplifier is excellent. Tons of power and it is very small.

Great budget amps !

2 weeks and dead already. I'm really dissapointed, it's only powering a 300W subwoofer as well.

Bass knob is garbage