788H-USB Precision Pulse Spot Welder +CC-CV Charge+Power Bank Test

I don't do power walls or similar large productions. I make up small battery packs for sale but reliability is critical and once set up, the S7888H does a professional, permanent job using standard US 110V current available on my work bench. I make sure to shut off my solder station to avoid any possible issues.The spot welder produces PERMANENTspot welds on 18650s, 99% nickle strips and nickle plated steel. It comes witha quantity of strips of testing and one of the packs is 99% nickle.The charging option is not useful for me. Was it higher amperage and voltage I could have used it to power my RC LIPO charger, but it's designed to charge 18560s and similar. Haven't used it yet.Lots of options in setting up the spot welds and simple trial and error will give you a great weld w/o burning.I am a happy camper!

Are use it for welding strips on two batteries. And it is fine for that. The rest of it really doesn’t have really good instructions making it not that useful outside of spot welding.

I bought one before and work just fine but my son need it so I give it to him, purchased the second one thinking that it’ll performance the same. Blow to fuse and big short inside the unit. Opened it to check inside but the issue was behind the control board. No happy!

I have this unit and it worked well for awhile. It was plugged into a dedicated circuit in my garage through an heavy duty extension cord. Eventually it started popping this circuit breaker (20amp). To my knowledge nothing else seemed to be on this circuit. It doesn't seem to be after X # of welds or ambient temp in the garage (85 F or 45 F). It eventually popped it's own internal fuse. I found a lower rated fuse locally by a company that specializes in fuses. The exact match does not exist in the US.I seemed have solved my problem. So buyer beware. I have a dedicated 30amp breaker connected to 20amp outlet. The wire that connects the two is about 1 foot keeping the overall run to the circuit short. My belief is that it needs either a type B or C breaker or slightly higher breaker (30amp vs 20amp) and a short run. And no the wires do not get warm.

The spot welder worked fine, which is what I purchased it for. I had to turn it to a max setting, but it worked well. The charger/usb portion of the unit does not work at all. The work light is a nice touch also. On the minus side, neither the adjustable voltage nor the USB ports work. Fortunately I have a different power supply for that, so I did not need this. The banana lead patch cord is poor quality too. In fact the jacks went in so tight the banana jack on the red lead broke and stayed in the plug.Anyway, if you just need a spot welder, then this unit is reasonably priced. Don’t plan on the power supply though.

This welder does exactly what it is supposed to do and does it well as far as I can tell. IF you have it plugged into a 20 amp line and it pops your breaker you need to purchase a "HIGH MAGNETIC" breaker with the same rating. This type of breaker ignores shorts or near shorts for the first hertz/cycle after power is used. This welder and similar items draw a LOT of current initially but for a very short time. The new breaker will safely solve your problem. MY only problem is trying to find out where to purchase welding tips that are identical to the original ones supplied. If anyone can advise where to buy or the phone number of the manufacturer it would be appreciated.

Had to crank it to 60A but then it worked like a champ...gzzzt gzzt ;)

I tested a few homebrew methods as seen on youtube before buying this. They were either ineffective or outright dangerous. You must turn the current up on this unit, once you do you will get excellent repeatable results. It draws more amps than a typical wall outlet is supposed to provide so it should be plugged into a utility outlet such as one used for a stove or water heater (make sure its 110). It has built in work lights on the probes that make the work easier.