VEVOR Metal Lathe Machine, 8.7 x 39 in, Precision Bench Power Metal Lathe, Automatic Feed, 0-2500 RPM Variable Speed, 1250W Brushless Motor, for Processing Precision Parts Soft Metals Wood Plastics

Fast shipment from the vendor & very professional! I would recommend this machine to any of my friends. It's a great bargain for its size class. The machine arrived undamaged. Everything appears to be working as it should. Tolerances and runouts are as advertised and will not require much, if any adjustment. It's just a nice little lathe! Machines packed for overseas transport are usually covered with clear cosmoline or something similar. This unit was no exception. Expect to get several shop towels saturated wiping off the bulk of it, then use WD-40 to dissolve and wipe off any of it that remains. It's also a good idea to check the gears for detritis like wood chips and styrofoam that popped off the inside of the crate due to stapling of the crate at the factory to prepare the machine for transport. The stiff, brown grease on the gears in the drive train is for lubrication. As long as it's clean, there's no need to remove it. I plan to keep it well lubricated and use Vactra way oil on the various gibs, dovetails, and Morse tapers. Regular oiling of the lead screws and bearings that have oil ports is best practice and the machine should last for many years if you take care of it. Swarf it down at the end of every work session and when you expect to leave it sitting idle for extended periods of time. One thing that's often overlooked by newcomers is shimming the lathe bed. If you want to maintain tighter tolerances and minimize errors, shim the legs of the lathe bed to remove any twists. The rubber feet supplied with the lathe are not helpful in this regard. Bolt the lathe feet to a heavy bench and add shims. YouTube has several good videos showing how to do this. As to the several comments about the motor not running, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!. There are several interlocks on this machine. The plastic cover over the lathe chuck has an interlock to ensure it is closed. The motor will not run if the cover is open. The Forward and Reverse switch on the front of the unit has to be set to the desired direction or the switch will trip out. And ALWAYS be sure to stop the machine when changing gears or directions. This thing isn't like a vehicle. Any time the gears or direction are changed, ensure the chuck is not turning! One other thing worth mentioning is that tachometer sensor under the end cover has to be close (but not touching) the left end of the lathe shaft. The small metal studs must clear the tachometer sensor. But if the sensor is too far away, the tachometer might register the rotational speed as something other than what it actually is. When I first turned on my machine, mine was reading about half the correct value. This is easy to fix by pushing the sensor a little closer to the shaft encoders, the small studs surrounding the end of the shaft. I have also seen a few people complaining about the lathe tools. These are brazed carbide cutters and need to be correctly sharpened before using. As with most brazed carbide cutters, it's up to the user to profile and sharpen them as needed before using them. You will likely also need to shim them in the tool holder to center them up to your workpiece. The lathe tool muti-tool holder will allow several cutter sizes. The ones in the included kit are 10mm x 10mm. If the cutter isn't lined up with with the vertical center of the workpiece, then watch some Youtube videos that explain how to do it. There is plenty of support for these machines on the Internet. If you have trouble finding videos, remember these all use similar parts that are made in the same factories in China. I agree that the multi-tool holder is a bit lacking and perhaps even more than a little clumsy. And depending on the metal you are working with, brazed carbide cutters might not be the best choice. They are typically used for cutting mild steel. Materials like high speed steel (HSS), titanium nitride, or cobalt steel cutter tools might be a better choice for other metals. It's just a budget tool holder with some general purpose tools for those who might not need anything better. There are lots of tool manufacturers with thousands of specialized tools available. Several recommendations are Shars Tool, Harvey Tools, and Tormach. There are several after-market quick change tool holders that will fit this machine with little or no modification. Remember, you are at liberty to add after-market parts and modify this machine as you desire. For small shop and hobbyist work, it's impossible to guess what every end user might need or expect. So watch videos, read books from the old timers, and ask questions. Someone will likely have a solution for whatever you may encounter. Also, remember that the larger the machine, the greater the cost for the tooling and work holding attachments. The cost of tooling and add-ons goes up exponentially with size of the machine. Many production shops that are trying to reduce turnaround time will expect more than the mini lathes and mini mills are capable of. If you expect the small machines to plow through the toughest metals with just a few passes, they just aren't capable of doing so. But most are capable of doing a decent job if you aren't in a hurry, take shallower cuts, use the right cutting tools, and don't have a long line of customers waiting. If you don't believe me, then look at what some of the so-called "model engineers" do with these things and even smaller machines of various brands. A good place to start is with the Home Shop Machinist books by Village Press, Inc if you are here in the US, and with lathe and mill books from Fox Chapel Books if you are in the UK or other countries. Amazon has both available.

Now that I've had this lathe for about a year, I can say it has really impressed me. It needs the normal "going through" that all of these Asian imports do (alignments, adjustments, etc). I've filled up a few 5 gallon bucks with shavings, so I've used it quite a bit. It has good power for pretty much anything you can fit in it, but at slow speeds you can still stall it out. No big deal, just don't go jamming the tooling into the piece at slow speeds. The threading feature works pretty dang good, I was really impressed with that. Not changing gears around for different threads is a game changer in the cheap lathe category. If you are on the fence about it, I will say it is worth it if you need small lathe or just want to get into a new hobby. Mine had some small defects in the casting on the slide that didn't affect performance too much and they took care of me. I've made all kinds of things from spacers to bushings to bolts, and it's done a great job with everything I've thrown at it.

Run, don’t walk away from considering these Vevor Lathes. This is the first time I have ever felt compelled to write a review of a product. I bought this product for my son and I to do Cross Kart and Hot Rod projects with. It seemed to be a logical purchase considering the price and the level of machine work we needed to do. I was wrong. I have purchased two Vevor bench top lathes in the last 5 months. The first was a MX-S716G, 800 watt, 7”x16” metal lathe. This lathe worked for 30 minutes, at which time it shot sparks out of the electrical box. I changed the fuse which immediately blew when I tried to turn the machine on, indicating an internal dead short. I returned the equipment for a full refund. I decided to purchase a second Vevor Lathe, thinking that the failure of the MX-S716G was an exception and not the norm for this brand. My second purchase was the Vevor MX-S1170, 1250 watt, 8.7”X39”, with the brushless motor. This lathe lasted 3 days (approximately 4 hours of run time) before the motor controller shorted out. The machine would come on but the chuck would not turn. I contacted Vevor via email asking for help with this issue. Their response was timely, apologizing for the inconvenience, promising to resolve the issue within 48 hours. SEVENTEEN DAYS and 18 emails later, I am still getting the run-a-round, asking me to “check this” and “confirm that”. The troubleshooting instructions I received were unclear and void of safety precautions. Because I am well versed in the electrical / mechanical field, I can read between the lines when I’m being instructed to remove the back panel to inspect and test electronic components, where electrical shock hazards exist. Others may not. Bench top lathes are considered by many to be an “entry level” machine. I agree with that in most cases, but not with the two I've owned. Several reviews raise the issue of loose components that need to be disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled because of sloppy assembly practices. I found this to be true with both of the Vevor lathes I purchased. Neither of them would hold acceptable tolerances under 0.020 inches at first. I could accept a tolerance of 0.005” out of the box with the ability to achieve better after some adjustments. I struggled justifying the need to repair a brand-new piece of equipment before using it. The carriage assembly was loose, and the cross slides were binding due to contamination not removed during assembly. The tailstock and tool rest were way off center, and the ways were rusty to mention just a few issues found. I cannot recommend these models of Vevor lathes to anyone other than a highly skilled Machinist with an electronics expert in their back pocket. My two experiences have cost me a lot of time and frustration along with delays in my personal projects.

To be honest, I was not expecting this lathe to be as good as it has been. I did my research, watched a ton of You-Tube video on the machine, so I kind of knew what I was getting myself into. Be prepared to put in a LOT of hours before making your first chips, and adding a few hundred bucks for tools, tool holders, center drills etc. You MUST remove all the shipping grease that is packed into every nook and cranny. The guy who did mine must have been going for employee of the month with the amount of grease on the thing. You have to disassemble the carriage, cross slide and compound, as well as the gears under the gear cover. Remove the chuck from the machine and then the jaws from the chuck and clean everything. (Here's a tip: When reassembling the jaws on the chuck, hold them in place with one hand then turn the chuck key counter clockwise. You'll feel each jaw click into place one at a time, then tighten. Also notice that each jaw is numbered (1,2 and 3) and so is the chuck body. Match them up when reassembling). Then clean, clean and clean, put it all back together, tighten and adjust all the gibs. I used a two pass cleaning system. First I cleaned with WD-40 and a whole lot of paper towel. The WD will dissolve the grease easily but leave a film. I followed that up with mineral spirits (paint thinner) and an old tooth brush, and even more paper towel. Take everything you can apart. Even the gib adjustment screws and nuts, but BE CAREFUL. Some of the parts are really small. I spent too much time on my hands and knees with a flashlight and magnet, but even these little buggers are full of grease and have to be cleaned up. I cleaned up each section as I took it apart and put the screws back where they came from right after cleaning and drying them. There are a ton of little screws and they're not all the same, so avoid mixing them up and put them back temporarily in the screw holes they came from. Otherwise you'll end up with a good size pile of screws and wonder where they all go. Take pictures as you take things apart as well. After a good cleaning, lubricate all the moving parts with way oil on the ways and gibs, and iso68 hydraulic fluid on the screws as you put it back together. This ensures that all surfaces get oil Dont forget the ball oilers, there are 5 of them. One in the chuck, one in the tailstock and one in the lead screw bracket. There are 2 in the geartrain under the gear cover. It took a lot of time, but if you invest it at the beginning, it will pay off in the long run. Adjust all the gibs so they are tight and smooth. It takes some time to make those adjustments so all the gibs run smooth with zero play, but not so tight that they take too much force to move. My first try at turning didnt go well, because I didn't have the compound gib tight enough. After a few more back and forths snugging the gibs down some more, I was able to get some real nice cuts. Your tools have to be adjusted properly as well. Very small changes in tool geometry, especially height, can have profound effects on cut quality. My machine came with all metal gears that look quite sturdy, but at the time of this writing, I have not used them. My first project is to machine a new arbor for an antique clock, that needs some pretty tight tolerances for press fits and tiny pivots. I've been practicing my technique for getting the placements along the arbor for the various diameters required to make a replacement. What has become obvious is that since there is no scale for moving axially, an add-on Digital Readout is a must for me to get placements at .002" accuracy that I need. This may or may not be a problem for you. I've been playing with the machine for a week or so now and I'm pretty impressed with what it can do. Here's my summary: Pros: Good solid feel. Heavy cast iron base Inexpensive surprisingly good quality. Good clean machined surfaces. Easy to get accurate diameters when turning Cons: I didn't like the placement of the carriage lock. It's right under the compound and difficult to get at. I added my own between the ways. It's definitely not ready for use right out of the box. Plan on spending a good 8 hours to disassemble, clean, reassemble and adjust things. The manual and cutting tools that come with it are useless. If your a home hobbyist or tinkerer this machine is a great one to start on for making some pretty awesome parts.

Here is a Lathe, complete enough to machine materials like brass, plastic and with some patience steel. The accuracy and precision will require some additional effort from the buyer. The project aspect is disassembly for deburring many of the parts, to improve the mating surface finishes while learning new skills building confidence the machine will last as good fits make a big difference. Accessories you will need are a drill chuck, a 3/8 capacity is more than enough along with a live center, OAX tool post, & indexable 3/8 cutting bits. It's comes with brazed carbide bits but sharpening them is difficult if you don't have the skill. Delve into YouTube for techniques and ideas to improve the lathe first to have a good experience, do the work you will be glad you did. The chuck guard must be down to turn it on, so read the manual, it's quick but important. I recommend you keep this guard in place, not removing it. The lathe is all there, tools, ETC. A great learning experience tool. You get both machining with a lathe and learning how they work, the fit and flaws all in one. If a project is ideal, this is for you. If your looking to just get a Lathe to just machine with and go, not so much. I have mine dialed in very nicely now, but this took much work, yet fun to do and learned a lot, including my mistakes too. Included are pictures of the machine and my first project I completed on it. The end without the hole I left long, center drilled and used a center to support the material for machining that feature. Hack sawed off that little extra removing the center feature from that end, then took many light finish face cuts. Last operation the Sleeve used was to protect the surface during chucking to drill and turn the bore end. This is for show only. Cheers from a 90k Hrs. Job Shop Machinist.

You should get this lathe, but just make sure your committed to actually wanting to machine. This is because the lathe has some loose parts and is also a bit out of alignment, !!BUT!! Everything can be adjusted, which is actually a good thing because all veteran machinist recommend newbies such as myself who never owned a lathe before to tear it apart to learn all about your lathe so it’s actually a pro to have to adjust the parts as you learn right off the go how to do it. I’ve watched several YouTube videos to learn about using a lathe and how to adjust its parts etc. Also bolt the lathe down to a desk/table to reduce vibrations as it is not as big as industrial lathes so is more prone to vibrations if not bolted onto something. The machine can cut various materials however tougher(steel etc)materials require thinner cut and softer materials(aluminum, brass etc) can be done in deeper cuts. You also have to learn what speed to to run the machine at with different materials to get the smoothest/cleanest cuts possible so I recommend buying metal tubes/bars for practice to learn(I bought my material from Home Depot). All in all this is a great machine to use and works really well when adjusted correctly! I would recommend for anyone trying to get there hands on their first lathe

Just received the Vevor 7x14 mini-lathe and did some work with it. You do need to clean it up a bit, as others have commented. It’s shipped with a thin layer of protective grease. Easy to clean off, I hosed it down with WD-40, wiped it down, then lined the ways with way oil. I did not disassemble the lathe as some suggest; prob would be better but I was able to clean it up to my own satisfaction. Anyway - I’m an HVAC guy who is also a nationally certified maintenance & reliability technician and a trained machinist (yeah - I’m old). I’m blown away by this little lathe!!! I did not need to make ANY adjustments, the jobs are perfect and this thing cuts as well as my dads Smithy 3-in-1 that cost six times as much. I machine mostly aluminum racebike parts so for my needs this has plenty of power. You can make quick work of turning spacers, etc. If you’re going to turn steel I’m sure it will do fine if you take your time. All in all, I already love this thing and I’m sure I will use it a lot.

Excellent lathe for the money. The headstock and tailstock were in perfect alignment straight out of the box. Added a rear chuck with no issues. Recommended and would definitely buy again. Thanks VEVOR!

Köp inte denna svarv! Dåligt tillverkad och slarvigt monterad. Delar sitter löst, inte åtdraget. Dubbdockan är av aluminium och pinolen i den glappar. Mothållen under släden måste schimsas annars fastnar den vid åtdragning. Spindeln går dock bra och den elektroniska matningen är ett plus. Maskinellt är den inte bra tillverkad. Reklamen är missledande.

No se encuentra centrado así que el material se suelta de la mordasa, en relación con el contrapunto ahí es más evidente que tiene una desviación, así que el material que se maquina toma la forma de un cono por la desviación de 4mm que tiene.