Hitachi 371468 Soft Start C10Rj Part

I ordered a couple of these Hitachi Soft Start modules to retrofit my table saw and shop vac. They're rated for 15A which is more than enough for my tools and unlike cheaply build no-name modules it has heavy 16ga wire and a heat sink to dissipate the heat generated from being in-line with the motor. Wiring the module into my saw was really easy - I just added some spade connectors and a Y adapter on neutral so I could insert it into the existing wiring without modifying the saw.The saw still starts pretty fast, much faster than the no-name module I had to use for my miter saw, but slower and quieter than it used to be.Best of all this authentic Hitachi part was less expensive than the no-name modules! Honestly I would have preferred to use one of these in my miter saw also but with the heat sink it was too big to fit.

I have a Ryobi contractor's saw that bucked like crazy when starting up. This fixed the problem and it now comes up to speed like a normal motor. Thanks to Mr. Stukov for the great wiring diagram on his video! The diagram on the device was not clear.

Relatively straightforward to install electrically. The other reviews gave enough directions. The issues are just how to physically include the device, but removing a bit of plastic for the heatsink to pop out was the only thing i needed to do.The functionality is a clear removal of that first big 'thunk' as the 12" blade spins up. It is still a quick start, but quick as in 1 second, not quick as in hell for leather. Took about 30 minutes to add it until it was all enclosed again.

I purchased this for my new Kobalt table saw. Before adding the soft start device, the table saw would start up violently. After adding the soft start it doesn't kick as much when turned on. The attached photo shows how I wired it up. It gets installed between the switch and the motor.

Like others, my Dewalt Miter saw would regularly trip my 20A breaker on startup - most likely due to a high rush-current. Once I figured out the wiring, the install was simple. On my saw, the 'trigger' unit has 4 wires connected to it. Black and blue on the left, red and yellow on the right. The black wire is the power to the motor. I disconnected this black wire from the switch, and connected the slow-start module in between -- the brown wire going to the switch/trigger, and the black wire to the motor wire we just disconnected. Finally, the blue wire on the module connects to the clump of white wires on the saw. I attached the module to the underside of the handle. I drilled a small hole for the wires to run into the handle, and used an existing, unused hole on the bottom as the screw hole to attach the module. I did have to extend the wire on the module so that it had enough length to reach the switch/trigger connection.

Soft Start Did Not Work As Described. I connected this soft starter to a 1/2 HP, 10A (run), induction motor. The work load is only about 1/3 of it's full load capacity, 3.8A. Using two clamp on amp meters I checked peak amps before and after connecting the soft-start. I ran about 10 different tests. There was no significant difference between using it and not using it. I also connected my shop-vac to it and checked the peak amps before and after. No significant difference. I couldn't even hear a difference in the sound of the shop-vac when it started.I also checked an incandescent lamp to see if I could see a ramp in the brightness of the bulb when it was turned on, and I couldn't tell a difference. BTW, I used two peak capture amp meters, and I tested two different soft-start modules. I triple checked my wiring. Finally, I discovered the built-in Potentiometer and turned it 1/2 turn CCW to increase the on-delay time and it worked.

I crossed my fingers and hoped this would work on my old SkilSaw Tablesaw Model 3400. It did! I no longer cringe or scare my cat to death when I turn on this trusty old saw. I now have a nice smooth startup that takes a couple seconds to wind up to top speed, instead of the violent acceleration to top speed in a fraction of a second. The schematic on the unit is maybe a little vague. Here is how I wired mine up and it worked the first time. My saw has a simple universal motor with 2 wired going to it and the switch is a simple SPST. MAKE SURE THE SAW IS UNPLUGGED! DUH!! Cut the "hot" wire from the switch going to the motor and connect it to the brown wire from the Hitachi module. Connect the black wire from the module to the wire, you just cut, going to the motor. Connect the blue wire from the module to the neutral wire from the power cord. THAT'S IT. For the wire splices, I used wire nuts, vinyl tape and rubberized tape on top of that. I pop riveted the module to the plastic base of the saw with two 1/8" pop rivets, then, tidied up the wires with a plastic pull tie. I don't have a clue how long the module will last. I now look forward to turning on my saw, and getting my projects done. Hopefully the module will last a long time. Try to avoid overloading or stalling out the blade. I suspect this will shorten the module longevity. Happy cutting.

Worked for my DEWALT DWE7485 8-1/4 in. Table saw. What can I say, it did it's job. Hope I wired it up correctly, since I purchased 2 other modules that didn't work at all.