Liquid Metal Thermal Paste - Conductonaut 1 Gram - Made in Germany Gallium Liquid Metal for PS5, CPU, GPU, Xbox, Game Consoles - Best for Overclocking, Premium Materials

I ordered this over a year ago when I bought a used Razer Blade Pro 2018. This laptop is notorious for running at its thermal throttling point basically any time it's running anything remotely intensive. I put Kryonaut on it when I got it, but it still hit 90C on the GPU and throttled. I finally decided to take the risk and apply the liquid metal Conductonaut paste. I already knew how to disassemble the laptop so getting to the heatsink was no problem. Cleaned the old paste with acetone and a paper towel, then used the included alcohol wipes to further clean the surfaces of any remaining paste, leaving them with a nice shine. Applying this paste is very different from conventional paste. Using the micro tip, the liquid metal comes out and forms a blob. You kind of have to press the liquid metal into the surface for it to start to take hold, but once it starts the rest can be brushed into a thin, shiny metal layer that evenly covers the die. I then put more on the mating copper heatsink surface. This took more force to get it worked in, but it left a nice shiny layer where I wanted it. I gently set the heatsink back in place and tightened the screws. Booted up the laptop after reassembly and fired up Overwatch. I was surprised that the GPU didn't immediately spike to 90C, instead hovering around 80-85C. Not a great temp but if it's not throttling I'll at least see a performance boost. Then I fired up Destiny 2. I started getting massive frame drops in between smooth 120fps gameplay. Turns out that by cooling the parts well, they'll try to throttle up and draw too much power, causing the power supply to reset and the laptop to drop into battery mode. This cycle repeats and causes lag spikes. Note that this is NOT the paste's fault! It works so well that it uncovers another flaw with this laptop's design. The laptop almost seemed to rely on thermal throttling to keep power draw under the power supply's limit. Fortunately, I knew about Intel XTU and MSI Afterburner. I was able to undervolt the CPU and GPU and turn down the CPU maximum and boost power until I no longer saw the battery mode drops. The result? Laptop runs cooler, quieter, and faster than it used to. I love the design of this laptop outside of its major power and thermal flaws, so I'm happy to have both at least sort of under control now.

Got it for a good price here on amazon. Was my first time using liqued metal and this stuff came highly recomended by a number of people. I’m currently using this on the dyes of two GTX 1080’s in SLI (with nickle plated copper water blocks) and on the IHS of an i7-6900k. The thermals on the GPU’s are absolutely amazing. I have not seen the gpu temps go above 35c while OC testing with unigine heaven (delta is 22c). The 1080’s are running @ 2100Mhz core, 5400mhz memory, using 1/2”ID PETG (the GPU’s are in series), 1xD5 pump @4800rpm, 1x560mm + 1x280mm rads in push/pull (fan speed 1200rpm). The CPU thermals are not as great, but still adequate. The 6900k reaches 68c in Prime95 26.6 running 1344 FFT size for an hour (delta is 22c). The 6900k is soldered, so delidding was not needed. The cpu is OC’d to 4.4Ghz @ 1.290v. The loop consists of a nickle plated copper block, 1/2” ID PETG, 1xD5 pump @4800rpm, 1x480mm rad in push/pull (fan speed 1600rpm). I’ll admit this stuff is more difficult to work with. It does not like to spread at first, and you just have to keep at it until the surface will behin to “wet”. You have to use it on both surfaces that will be in contacting as well, because it does not “flow” like normsl paste. You also need to pay special attention to not get it on anything except the dye, IHS, or block surface sine it is a conductive material. I used thick electrical tape to cover the small diodes next to the dye on the CPU’s. I origionally was going to use kapton tape, but felt the heavy electrical tape would hold up better over time. Also note that this stuff should never come in contact with aluminum (it contains gallium, which destroys aluminum). Cleanup is a bit more tedious, but not bad. Wipe up what you can with an absorbent cloth (toilet paper works), then procede to lean the surface like you would for any other paste. In general, you should not go near this stuff unless you know what you’re doing, because it’s too easy to destroy your hardware otherwise. A $1000+ cpu and $1300+ in GPU’s, plus a $600+ Mobo can be destroyed in the blink of an eye due to one drop of this stuff being where it shouldn’t be. Everything said, I’m content with the results. The CPU would likely run cooler if it was delided. I think Intel did a crappy job with their IHS soldering. If you are using an unsoldered cpu, definately delid, the results should be great. I don’t recommend delidding a soldered IHS, because it’s EXTREMELY time and labor intensive to do properly, and has a much higher risk of damaging your cpu.

Excellent product. I used this to delid a i7-7700K and it dropped temperatures under load from 75 to 63C. I'm running a liquid cooled set up for both my GPU and CPU and this product is amazing at what it does. Very easy to spread with the included q tips which are very high quality. My suggestion is to "paint" the Conductonaut on both the IHS and CPU die and close it up and glue. This tube has enough for several delids, so use a small grain of sand amount and start from there. That's all you need and it's very easy if you mask off the CPU with scotch tape (much easier to remove than electrical and works just as well for cheaper). This has one of the highest thermal conductivities on the market, although I don't think that those values are that accurate given the fact that there is no standard for testing. Only thing is to not use on Aluminum as the gallium in this product will diffuse into Aluminum and essentially make it fall apart, but on a CPU die to IHS you're fine, even with an aluminum cooler (but don't use this on the cooler itself to CPU).

Used this to fix my son's PS5 and it hasn't overheated since. Seems like the product does exactly what it's supposed to. A little note about using it though - it's not a "more is better" type of product. You literally want the thinnest layer that actually covers the surface area. If you put too much it will act as an insulator instead.

As advertise this is a liquid metal thermal compound which is highly conductive and can mess up whatever you used this on if not applied properly. I used this product on my ps4 pro to see if it would bring the fan noise down to a reasonable sound. Testing So to create a base line the thermal paste that I already had on my PS4 Pro was the Thermal Grizzly Aeronaut which ran me about $15 bucks for the 3.9 gram size. In idle the fan noise was around 50db give or take. Underload the game that I used in my initial testing was rainbow six siege and played it about an hour which the fans noise ramped up to 87dB which is basically noticeably loud After getting my baseline I then the took my ps4 pro apart to apply the Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut(this also ran me about 15for this thermal compound) once I cleaned the thermal paste I already had on. Once I got the thermal paste on I basically did the same thing which idle noise was around 40db and unload was around an amazing 60-66db give or take which is a pretty good improvement. In Conclusion Unfortunately I was unable to get thermal testing cause I don't own a thermal gun of that nature but other then that this is an amazing product and I highly recommend it IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING( and I emphasize the know what your doing part). The thermal paste comes with 2 qtips, 2 alcohol pads and two different nozzles for applying the thermal compound. You do not need to add a large size of thermal compound to what ever it is your applying this to use only a tiny drop and spread it around with the Qtips provided the instruction are pretty much self explanatory. if you do happen to apply to much by accident just simply switch the nozzle to the black one and suck it back up(I had to do this 2x cause the liquid came out faster then I anticipated) .

Yes, this stuff works great, however, it is not copper safe as the manufacturer states. The best use for this product is when delidding and using under the heat spreader. I used this with a 100% copper Thermaltake AIO liquid cooler and after 4 months, my computer started overheating and in place of this thermal compound, was white powder. This product cannot be used with Aluminum at all but also eventually reacts with Copper as well. The explanation I read is that it eats away at the copper leaving the white powder and then the microscopic pits formed then trap any remaining compound causing the process to accelerate. This process may also render the cooler permanently less effective due to the damage to the copper surface. I contacted the manufacturer for clarification and weeks later I have heard no response from them. You'll get great results up front, but you'll have to clean off the power and replace at least every 6 months, or in my case with a very hot running i9, even sooner. Update:. Delidded and this stuff is excellent for that. Does not react to the nickel IHS and has not dried out. Use it for delidding for sure!

To get one thung out of the way, LM is *NOT* a silver bullet that will solve your cooling woes in most cases. Realistically, outside of some specific edge cases I’ll get imto later you can expect a small reduction in average temperatures (in my experience usually somewhere in the realm of 2-7C on GPUs. I don’t use it on CPUs because it stains the IHS and makes it look ugly) and a slightly larger but still small decrease in hotspot temperatures. There are some exceptions to this ruler, however: 1) AMD Rx 6000 series reference coolers if you, like me, were unfortunate enough to think that replacing the carbon thermal pad the GPU core comes with out of the factory with ordinary paste would help, then this is a solid solution to the absurd temperature problems you’re probably dealing with right now. Seriously, I went from 87C edge 115C juntion temp on my Rx 6800 with Kryonaut paste to maxing out in the mid 80’C on junction temp after using LM - and that’s with a vastly higher power limit to boot. 2) Very high thermal density chips if you have a component that outputs a LOT of heat in a very small area then it can be very hard to adequately transfer that heat away. LM can help woth this over regular paste. A good example would be something like a delidded Ryzen 7 5800x. A chip like this would benefit from liquid metal, although unless delidded the IHS will prove to be a limiting factor. 3) Very high power consumption I have an RTX 2080 ti that pulls up to 850w when under load. Paste works, but goodness me does it sometimes struggle when power consumption stays high instead of spiking. LM helps a lot here. For pretty much every other possible use case it’s simply not worth it. Although more thermally conductive than paste, don’t be fooled by the w/mk figure on various paste. The way this is calculated makes it extremely manipulatable, and in fact Thermal Grizzly has made statements about this. They themselves manipulate this number on their products, although in fairness to them all of their competitors do too, so at least they’re honest about it. Aside from that, there are some pretty serious downsides too: 1) Electrically conductive if this stuff gets on running SMDs then you can say goodbye to whatever that component the SMD is on. 2) Corrosive LM alloys contains lots of gallium, which will eat away at some metals, notably alluminum and tin. what this means is that if you use this on an alluminum cooler, the gallium will alloy itself to the cooler and destroy the structure of the cooler. Not great. Also, if a little bit lands on a PCB and manages to not short something out, you can bet money that it’ll eat its way through a solder joint and once again, bye bye component. 3) Staining This will stain copper and nickle. Not a deal breaker, just ugly. Also, copper in particular is a pain to clean off, as the LM will bond to it leaving small bumps. These can be scraped off, but it’s time consuming and not much fun. 4) Expensive This is probably the most obvious one. If you don’t need LM for your usecase, you can spend less money and probably get more paste at the same time. Personally I’m partial to Thermal Grizzly Aeronaut, but just about any well known paste will do you just fine. I believe many of Noctua’s pastes are usually quite well priced. In conclusion, if you know you need LM then you probably already know all of this and are going to get it anyway. If you don’t, then you should probably just get some Kryonaut or whatever and call it a day.

Shipping and delivery was very fast. The product itself is outstanding. I used it on my de-lidded Intel i7-6700k as a replacement for the stock thermal paste that was only a year old and it resembled dried clay when being removed. My 6700k is being cooled by an EVGA CLC 280 and is overclocked to 4.4GHz. I have four Noctua NF-A14s on the radiator at a mere 650-700rpm each. I don't need all four, but due to my radiator being my only intake, I wanted fans on both sides to pull air through the radiator and into the case more efficiently and retain more static pressure to push air onto my motherboard and GPU (My overclocked GPU temps don't go past 72C.) Playing Call of Duty: WWII maxed out at 1080p with the original thermal paste resulted in a max package temperature of about 63C. After the Conductonaut the temperatures don't exceed 43C after hours of playing. The 43C is actually a spike, it is typically around 39C-41C in games. Synthetic loads (Prime 95) dropped from 70C to 54C. Seriously. It literally dropped my temps down nearly 20C across the board. My idle temperatures used to be about 5C-8C above the ambient air in my room, now it is down to only 1C-2C more across all cores (some cores report being as low as 15C). I didn't re-seal the IHS to the board and it is only being held together by the retention arm of the motherboard to minimize space between the die and IHS. I cannot recommend this product enough, and I can't recommend de-lidding enough, but be sure to get a de-lid tool from Rocket-Cool or eBay to make this as easy and clean as possible.. Even if your temperatures aren't terrible, it gives you a ton of headroom for overclocking and also gives you the benefit of being able to turn fan speeds and thus noise down dramatically.

Juste be carefull when apply, with copper just put some back on it After one month After the first coat because the copper will dry out the metal

Noticed a 10c+ difference under load in a gaming laptop.

Good product

Used it to correct dry spot on ps5 factory liquid metal

I used Thermal Grizzly's compounds on my delidded Core i7 3770K and used Conductonaut under the IHS, and then used Kryonaut between the IHS and Corsair H80i v2 cooler. It dropped the max temps by 20 degrees, just as I had read online. I thought reviewers on YouTube and whatnot were exaggerating, however having set it up myself, Thermal Grizzly's thermal compounds are legit. The 20 degree drop in temperatures allowed for further overclocking of the CPU, as well as reduced fan speeds. So less noise and more performance! I feel that the reduction in noise and heat, and increase in performance justify the price for what are premium thermal compounds. Advice for application: Pressing the plunger very slowly and firmly, dispense a bead of Conductonaut the size of half a grain of rice (3mm) onto the die. Using the included black application swabs, gently rest the tip down upon the bead and sweep across the die horizontally with small brush strokes. Spread the compound evenly such that there are no streaks (thin blank areas) but also no pools of the liquid metal. Just enough to cover the surface with no streaks remaining is perfect. Using the residual liquid metal on the swab, apply it to the inside of the IHS facing the die using a swirling motion. Just enough to prime the surface is sufficient. Use only on nickel-plated, steel, or high-quality copper. Do not use on aluminum heatsinks, as it will amalgamate with the aluminum and rot out the heatsink. Take time and care in your application and you'll have great results.