Micro chip Programmer with USB Cable, Wires for Pic Kit 3 and ICSP Socket

I bought this to program a a few PIC 16F630 chips for switchless mods on a couple of sega saturn and eventually some other systems. after going through a few tutorials on settings and such, it worked great. I DID screw up at least one chip before I got it right, but I think it was the image that I tried to flash, it must have been a bad file as I tried again with a different version and was able to set up two of my sega saturns with the switchless mod. figuring out the jumper settings on the chip seat board (is that what you would call it???) was confusing, but theres a couple of good youtube videos that can help you get that worked out. also theres some confusion on the power setting, so be sure you read up on this before you just botch the flash on a chip. they ARE cheap, so its not a huge deal if you mess up, and I was able to actually erase and refresh my chips. Great buy even though its a cheap clone, but it gets the job done.

Once I found software for the device I was able to load the program and download my changes back to the chip. Everything worked OK. No instructions on finding the software in kit. Did an internet search with what I found about the kit I was using and that directed me to software for programming the chip.

This is teh best option for PIC programming and debugging for Hobby use. There are cheaper options, but the reliability of this unit is worth every penny.

I miss using the PicStart Plus, but it finally came to a point where I had to upgrade to a newer programmer. PicKit 3 is not a nice package like the PicStart Plus but does the job.

This thing is great. I had been searching for a functional programmer for a while, and this thing actually works. I've read a few review talking about issues connecting, but I didn't have any...once I figured out how it works. lolYou need to tell MPLAB X to supply voltage to the connection board. Choose Advanced mode, then click on Power > "Power target circuit from PM3"I left the voltage at 5V for the chip I was using, make sure you choose the correct voltage for whatever chip you're using.

I actually got this PicKit3 clone to work to program a Microchip PIC16F57, but I am very surprised. When the PIC16F57 pin1 is inserted into pin 5 of the PicKit3 40pin zif connector, the PicKit3 fails to supply Vcc to the PIC16F57 pin2, and instead supplies Vcc to the oscillator clock output on PIC16F57 pin 26 (which I am assume could damage it), as well as the many of the hopefully tri-stated I/O output lines RA1, RC0, RC6, RC7. Thus the PIC16F57 is reliant on the ESD protection diodes in the PIC16F57 IO lines to supply it with 5 volts. And the PicKit3 connects Gnd to many other of the hopefully tri-stated I/O output lines RA2, RB1, RB2, RB4, RC4, RC5.If you run this PicKit3 clone using the Microchip MPLAB X IPE app, be prepared to reboot the PicKit3 several times to get it to connect properly. And if setting the MPLAB X IPE app to supply the Vcc programming power, lower the programming voltage setting to 4.75 volts, since there is too much voltage drop in the circuit and will cause a failure message.

I bought this to replace a dead PICKit4 because Microchip provides complete documentation for the PICKit3 (which it does not for the -4, so if it dies you are stuck). The -3 works just as well as the -4 unless you are using one of their latest micros. (BTW I would probably have rated "sheerness" higher if I had any idea what it was).

I used MPLAB X IPE to program an PIC18F - and it worked very well.