Smart Strip Advanced Paint Remover - for Removal of Acrylic, Latex, Oil, & Water-Based Coatings - Non-Caustic Formula - Indoor/Outdoor - Contractor & DIY Friendly - 5 Gallon

So! Stripping paint from brick is about the hardest job I have done to date! We have a huge fire place with at least 50 years worth of paint on the brick (and mortar). It has been a 3 summer project, and we have tried EVERYTHING under the sun (except a heat gun, indoors...). The Smart Strip in conjunction with the paper worked as well as the other products but where it excells is in the time it takes. This is a MESSY process and short of sand blasting or using an angle grinder/brass wire wheel attached to your drill, NOTHING is going to remove all of the paint. Here's what worked for us: (prep: VERY IMPORTANT- use paintrer's tape (not regular masking tape, heavy duty paper and trash bags to cover and protect everything in about 2 or so feet (at the least) and heavy card board with plastic underneath for at min 3 feet on the floor (Did I mention this is very messy) 1) spread the stripper on the section you will work on (I'd recommend 1 sheet's worth at a time) similar to icing a cake, start at the top if working vertical. 2)cover with Dumonds paper, yes it is worth it (wax paper, parchment, plastic is either way too much bother (plastic, as it just fell off) or didn't help at all, and make sure to spread it on smoothly and remove the air bubbles especially in mortar areas, 3) Wait! At least 24 hours, 4)if something didn't get covered by the paper this is where you should start. 5) Now for the WORK! We used 2 long narrow heavy duty wire brushes, a smaller wire brush or 3 (these brushes lasted on the 7' x 3' section, but will loose their bristles and get gummed up beyond use), some pot scrubbing pads the green ones), some of the 3m brand scrubbers are helpful as well, some metal scrapers/putty knives to remove the bulk of the goop, a bag lined trash can (so you can scrape the goop off the putty knife and have a ready place for putting the goop that come off and sticks to everything), and a disposable bucket of water, 6) peal back a small amount of the paper at a time starting at the top, (the paper will keep the stripper maliable longer) 7) use the putty to scrape the worse goop off, then use the wire brush to scrub, rinse the goo off in the water, a wooden skewer can help dislodge this Oobleck like horror and you do want to get this off very frequently (I tapped it very firmly on the top of the bucket to dislodge the gunk), the use a very wet scrubbing pads of your choice to get the scummy fill off (the big sticky goop must be off first, when these pads get supper goopy throw them in the trash, they'll just make things worse rather than better and you can't clean off the goop from the stubbing pads, the 3m seem to do a bit better and can be washed out some and once dried the goop isn't too bad, but hey won't last long and I save useing them until the end or an uneven or chipped brick that I couldn't get into with the wire brushes, use plenty of water. Clean up at the end of the day using Good Off, outside-stinks. Nothing works better for cutting through the Oobleck goop! It will melt any adhesive holding your brush together though. It is more $$$ BUT I finished this section in a total of 8 days work, the other 2 sections took 2+months of working every day to get the same results. Oh, you should also protect yourself! This stripper doesn't burn like most of the oothers we've used and has nearly no smell, but it is chemicals and harsh ones. So be careful, nitrile gloves and eye protection are the bare minimum!

100% recommend. Eady to use and no smell. Strips the black paint off my nightstand easily. Used as directed and watched a few videos before using.

For the 8 years i've been restoring antiques, i've sworn by methylene chloride-based strippers, like Klean Strip. I've become a connoisseur of strippers and solvents. And then I tried to strip the wrought iron railings outside my house. What a nightmare! The Klean Strip was drying into an impenetrable shell before it sank in past the first layer of paint. These railings have at least 4 or 5 thick layers of different kinds of paint. I tried Smart Strip as a last resort. I had used an earlier version of the product (Peel Away) on some woodwork in my house years ago, and it did okay. I was skeptical because of the mixed reviews. After the first spindle, I ran and got my camera to take a video. I finished the remaining 6 spindles, plus the top and bottom rails, and cleaned up the bits the other stripper left, in just shy of 2 hours (not counting the dwell time- i'll get to that). By comparison, it took a whole day to do 2 spindles with the Klean Strip, and it left a lot of gunk behind. Now, I gave this 4 stars because, despite my enormous success with it, you can't follow the directions... Wrapping: The can specifically says it doesn't need to be covered (like its predecessor, Peel Away), but I did it anyway bcs my railings were outside my door, and I didn't want anyone putting their hand in goop. The one place I did not cover, I was pleased to see the solvent hadn't dried out after 24 hours, but I did have a tougher time scraping the paint off there. I did not use the special paper they sell- I just used some plastic shopping bags. Someone else mentioned wax paper. I even noticed the paint coming off with the bags as I peeled them off. Scraping: The paint doesn't “wipe right off”. It does require some elbow grease. I used a scraper on flat surfaces and steel wool or a metal bristle brush on the curvy bits. And some places I had to scrub, or pick off a fleck with my finger nail. But I had the first spindle down to bare metal in 5 minutes. I also used Denatured Alcohol to help clean off the solvent and soften up any little bits of paint left over. Dwelling: I don't know why the can bothers to say 3-24 hours. Just tell us we should leave it overnight. I can't imagine it taking less time. And it's not like the stuff dries out. I did mine for 24 hours, and it worked very well. Thickness: The can says 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch, and they're not kidding. The heavier the better. I would drop my railings into a vat of this if I could. If you paint on a thin layer, it won't work. You have to really slather it on there. Basically, if you can still see your paint through the solvent, you don't have enough on. I dabbed it on like stucco. Really thin stucco. So, in conclusion, this is not a product to use if you wake up one morning and want to get your project done that day. Count on a 24 hour dwell time. I can't vouch for how it works on finishes other than latex or oil based paint (like enamel, polyurethane, varnish, etc. I have a feeling a lot of the negative reviews encountered a layer of something this stuff isn't formulated to handle), though I did notice that, as I wiped my solvent covered hands on my paint-spattered jeans, paint was coming off my jeans. And don't follow the directions- slather it on, wrap it, wait a day, scrape it, and scrub it with denatured alcohol. It's water based, it doesn't stink, it doesn't burn like the fires of a thousand suns when it gets on your skin, it's biodegradable... what's not to like? If you're unsure, get the “sample size” and test it. ¼ of the “sample size” can did a 4 foot section of railing for me. I will continue to use Klean Strip for projects I need to do quickly, or if i've only got 1 or 2 layers of paint to get through. But the rest of my railings will be done with Smart Strip!

I was initially pretty skeptical about whether Dumond Smart Strip would actually live up to the hype, but it ended up working fantastically. If you have heavy coatings or stubborn old finishes to strip, I would definitely recommend it—you just have to respect the process. Here are the key takeaways from my experience to get the best results: Apply It Thick: Don't skim on the product. You need to apply a heavy, liberal coat so you can no longer see the surface of the item you are working on. Wrap It Up: Covering the applied paste in plastic is crucial to keep the formula active and prevent it from drying out. Give It Time: Patience is key here. You really need to allow a full 18 to 24 hours of dwell time to let the chemical do the heavy lifting. Managing the Mess: Scraping it off is definitely a messy process, but cleanup goes much smoother if you scrape off as much of the softened sludge and old coating as possible with a flat scraper before bringing in a brush for the fine details. Overall, it takes some time, but the results speak for themselves. I’d buy it again in a heartbeat!

I was looking for an alternative to that “orange stuff” because the chemical smell on it filled my small house and gave everyone headaches. So I read the reviews on this and thought why not. TBH it was a waste of money. I have an older house 70’s ish maybe. Little older and have real hardwood shiplap type going up half my walls. It’s been painted from what I can tell at least 3 times over a stain vanished type of finish. I used almost the whole tub on 4-6 planks around 3 feet tall around 6 inches wide. I followed the instructions applied liberally and waited the recommended 1 hour. By the time I got back to it the gel was completely dry and nothing scraped off. So I applied another light coat let it sit for another15-20 mins and again started scraping. The gel drys so quickly. So I then started applying it letting it sit for a min to 5 before I’d come back and scrape. This was with some major muscle behind it. Things finally started to scrape off, however for the price of the tub, which I believe was a quart at $25 it would take me $5000 in product to complete my project and I would still have to use major muscle to remove the paint so unfortunately, I’m going back to the orange stuff, but at least that stuff works quick.

I got this to strip off the paint on a guitar body. Some testing it looks like there were three layers on the guitar so after deciding not to sand it off, I searched and found this. I went ahead and got some of the papers they recommend as well, but after use plastic bags or wax paper probably would have worked just as well. After using this, it does work, and application is very easy. Glom it on, apply paper and push out the air, and wait. Here’s where things get complicated though. If you think the pain is just going to come off do some stretching and warm ups because you’re going to get a work out. I tried one application and waited 3 hours. It wasn’t easy so I tried it again and waited overnight. Still wasn’t easy so I had to take a wire brush to the body to get the worst of it off. This stuff is sticky too and while the paint is coming off it’s just sticky wads of snot textured goo everywhere. Not fun. Unintended consequences, the wood feels slimy and wet after use, so after the last scrubbing I wrapped the body in a thick towel and put it in front of a heater overnight. Next day it was much better, but I’m going to start sanding today and let the wood sit for a few days before I sand it. So it does work, it’s simple, doesn’t smell like a chemical factory (big win), but if you’re looking for easy, this ain’t it. I included pictures, they’re in order from first application, second application and then after a good scrubbing with a wire brush.

Yes the smell won't bother you but only if you cover the area treated, with plastic. Today is my 3rd day working with this stripper, first 2 days left it on for hours thinking it was the only way to remove 4 layers of paint. My kitchen counters are original to the house made in 1943. The wood is a lot better than what you get today, so no way I am getting rid of them. In order to give them a makeover I have to get rid of 4 layers of paint. I brush a nice layer of this stripper, cover it with plastic and let it seat until the next day, all the paint came out with the plastic when I pull it off. So I decided to give it less time, it only end up needing 3 hours, the paint effortlessly came off with the plastic. I then try doing it without the cover, and that was my mistake, the smell in no time made it to the living room, is not an unpleasant odor, it smells like Wilton frosting, but in no time I start feeling dizzy and felt pressure in my head. I cover the stripper, open all doors and place my husband industrial big fan in the living room for a few minutes, that fix the problem. Now I place the stripper, cover it with plastic, wait a few hours and no more smell. I have no idea what kind of paint I'm removing, all I know is 4 layers of different colors. I recommend this product just make sure to cover the section with plastic after applying the stripper. Another detail I'm licking, this stripper is thick enough to stay in place it doesn't fall off ot drip from the cabinets sides or areas underneath the countertop.

I picked this up to clean up some pre-owned 40k models before repainting them. After 1 application, almost all the paint was taken off. After the 2nd application, the miniature is just about ready to prime. It didn't eat into the model at all either, I literally slept on it and rinsed in the morning.

Did not work on the walls at all

It had hoped. No muss, no fuss. It was great to work with. Such an improvement over the "old' type product.

Muy buen producto y despinta a la primera

PLUS: Algunas pinturas como spray caen en segundos/minutos y usando una capa delgada de removedor. Otras pinturas como latex tardan varios dias y requieren gruesas capas de removedor, ademas de considerable fuerza mecánica con espatula para removerlas. El producto no tiene olor ni irrita la piel inmediatamente (cuando reacciona con la pintura emana un leve olor, mejor usar EPP por si las dudas). El producto solo funciona mientras es liquido, recomiendo que la temperatura de ambiente sea cálida para mas velocidad de acción pero no tanta como para evaporarlo. CONTRA: La cantidad que viene en el contener del producto es absurdamente pequeña. De requeririan requieren varios tarros de producto para lograr un solo mueble. A menos que sea un mueble muy fino y de altisimo valor sentimental, el costo seria mas caro que el mismo mueble.

Pesimo