Original Stainless Steel CR-10 Ender-3 Heat Break Throat Feeding Tube Heatbreak for Creality 3D Printer CR10 V2 V3 S4 S5, CR10S, Ender 3 V2, Ender-3 pro, CS3 Hotend (Stainless Steel)

They never tell you these are crap for PLA until you buy them, Hence the 2 stars, well I am here to tell you these are crap for PLA. It melts too low for this heat brake to not clog. Bam wasted money and scrap space age material. Perhaps you can make it more slick with oil seasoning as others have suggested but its a band aid on a problem, heres what I say, if you have a stock or non direct drive extruder, buy stock heat brakes to print PLA and buy these only for higher tamp material and you will be fine, snip the ptfe with a good 90 degree cutter every once in awhile and be done with it. The thing about retraction pulling material into the heat brake is bowden setups REQUIRE larger amounts of retraction to not glob up and ruin prints! Direct drive extruders may not require as much, but again 2 stars because they dont tell you this is needed, they just list how great it is. Bull pucky. You can use these with higher retraction with higher meelting point material MAYBE but I cannot confirm, and those that SAY it worked don't say what kind of extruder they have. For me these both plugged up within a day, with flow issues until they died, ruined every filament it touched, meanwhile I was just trying to keep my ptfe temps low. Not happy one bit as a lot of this info could be said up front.Edit - updating my review. You can probably print anything with these if you have a direct drive system non long bowden setup, but again no one tells you this up front until you go down the rabbit hole. There is just too much information to cover it all and even the best youtubers leave things out but I cant complain at the free things I learned otherwise to be upset about this or the item so I am updating the reveiw to 4 stars but hopefully some one with a bowden system reads this and realizes A dont buy this. or B They need direct drive for it to work. I have an aquila an ender 3 clone and this item https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09KG8MMQ2 made these work a lot better by mounting my extruder directly above the hotend. smaller bowden = less retraction = less hot end mess.

These sleeves make most clogs a thing of the past. The Bowden tube is left far above the nozzle and will not degrade or loosen like it used to. Retraction needs to be scaled back (I have mine at 2mm) and prints are as clean as ever.

Installed this to print nylon and carbon fiber on my ender 3 v2 and worked like a charm. Easy to install, have more balanced prints, and includes a spare. I have yet to come across a down side as I feel my printer is my solid now with this part.

Ender 3 cooler sucks. Tried to print PETG and maybe a third of prints are successful. Even with 0 retraction it still managed to jam. Pulling the filament it is 100% heat creep. Stock ender 3 hotend with thermal grizzly paste between the heat break and heat sink.Printed a shroud to help with cooling, thing:3908942. Fixed my issues and haven't had heat creep since.

Installed in a Voxelab Aquila X2 printer, and during a long series of prints, I had my first and only filament blockage, in the PTFE within the heat break. Replaced the standard PTFE tube (in a direct extruder hot end) with high temperature PTFE, so will see if that happens again. Installed easily so otherwise happy with the device.

I bought this product after a bad first experience trying to go all-metal, and am very happy with it!After repeatedly hitting problems with charring the end of the PTFE in my Ender 3's original hotend, I reluctantly decided to try an all-metal heatbreak. I first bought an expensive Slice Engineering Copperhead bi-metal heatbreak, and it was nothing but trouble, with lips/gaps for the filament to jam on at the interface to the nozzle and the internal stainless/copper interface. So I bought this (the TC4 all metal version) to see if it would be any better, and wow, yes it was, at less than 1/4 the price!With proper chamfers at the ends, and being all a single metal part, there's nowhere for anything to jam. The cold side is plenty long (about 6 mm longer than the Copperhead) before it meets the PTFE, ensuring softened filament doesn't make it anywhere near that interface. It prints pretty much identically to a PTFE-lined hotend, including flow, retraction, etc. but with linear advance/pressure advance factor cut in half (better). I was concerned all along that going all-metal would be a tradeoff that might bring more stringing, or require slower retraction, or make it hard to print PLA at high temperatures, but this thing just works.

- Ender 3- Direct Drive (OMG D1)- Tungsten Carbide tip (from MatterHackers)- Custom Firmware (higher max temperatures and some other tweaks)Outstanding upgrade for the price. Super easy to install, and it just plain works. I can run PLA all day with no jams and perfect results. PETG @ 240 and ABS @ 250.... ZERO problems. 1mm retraction all the way around, and 2mm retraction at the end of the print job. I can change spools when the machine is cold.IMPORTANTDO use a high temperature heat sync compound between the body and the aluminum heat sync during installation. The job of the heat sync is to dissipate the excess heat, so you want to transfer as much heat as possible from the heat-brake body to the heat sync. Kryonaut is good up to 350°C, and worth the $$ for even the small tube. I suspect the bad reviews may be caused by the lack of heat sync goop, or the WRONG heat sync goop (not rated to a high enough temperature). Don't be cheap everywhere. Yeah, you bought a sub $200 printer and a $15 (for 2 of them) hot end upgrade. For $7, get the right heat sync goop.

1 of 2 of these just snapped during installation. The 1 that worked seems solid so far.

Being made of one piece of the same type of metal this heat break is no better than the standard Ender 3 types you get with the standard hot end. However having a 1.75 aperture it simply clogs within a few layers of starting a new print due to heat creep. It may be possible to improve things by adding some thermal grease and perhaps removing the two support screws normally found on the standard Ender 3 hot ends to give the heat sink a better chance to keep this heat break cool and prevent creep. But somehow I doubt it, at the end of the day I couldn't be bothered to waste time, prints and filament on maybe's and pulled the trigger and finally bought a Micro Swiss hot end with a proper heat break. Now that does work as you want it to, wish I'd done that in the first place and saved myself time, grief and money.

ender 5+not a single print worked so far.retraction is the issue by the looks of it. even when not retracting print quality is bad.I am going to get another one and compare.so far not happy.

Well after first looking at the heartbreak the colour seemed off for titanium. After licking it I knew it was a stainless steel. Just hope it does the job. Before you all jump on and say I don't. Know what I'm talking about I worked in a high end engineering company for 28 years and machined a lot of titanium of various types. Good points are all dimensions are spot on and surface finish look nice so I will try and report back. Quick delivery.

Purchased the version that has the ptfe inserted to the narrowing part. Its a straight replacement for the existing ender heat break and allows the ptfe tube to be moved away from the nozzle providing a higher temperature capability for PETG and other materials. First prints did clog quickly on a 1mm retraction (direct drive) but reducing it to 0.2mm retraction solved the clogging and didn't change the stringing behaviour much. Still playing with it but so far very happy for the price.

Well machined product at a great price. Will use again.I only print with PETG so wanted a better high temp setup for my bowden printer. Swapped out the stock Biqu B1 heatbreak for this one. It has moved the bowden tube out of the hotend and up into the heatsink so now I have an all metal hot end :DNeeded to use some thermal paste on the heatsink end to help with temperature transfer and had to turn my retraction distance down to 2.5mm to stop the heatbreak getting blocked and now it all runs like a dream.Print quality as good as before but now I can crank the temp up to max and don't have to worry about the bowden tube degrading, etc.