ALEKO LM137 Universal Gate Garage Door Opener Remote Control With Transmitter HomeLink Compatible

This worked perfectly for my application. Currently Tesla Model 3's do not support Sommer Direct Drive garage doors that operate at 310Mhz. I was able to install this and program my Model 3's Homelink system to operate it perfectly. On the circuit board, the inputs labeled "A" actually ended up being the "B" button on the remote, but that didn't matter. I powered it from the 24VDC output from my Sommer Garage door opener on pins 1 & 2.The range isn't great, but the range on my Sommer remotes isn't either so I can't complain there. I am concerned that since it doesn't seem to use a rolling code, that the signal isn't as secure, but that isn't a deal breaker for me. I am very happy with the application, ease of install, function and price.

I bought this widget to add remote control to one of the garage doors in my new house. The Craftsman door opener looks prehistoric, and does not have a remote. Installation was easy enough. I was able to find 26V DC power on the opener, so no external power source was required. The provided keychain remote worked well, and I proceeded to connect to the HomeLink transmitter in my car. This is where things took a bizarre turn.The transmitter seemingly learned the signal, and operated the door. I closed the cover on the LM137 and tried again... and it did not work. At the same time, the keychain remote was working fine. I tried the procedure for the "rolling" codes -- no change. Tried the "learn" button on the LM137 -- no change. When I was about to uninstall the entire thing and initiate the return, I pressed the HomeLink transmitter button for the last time -- and it worked! Closed the cover on the LM137 -- and it did not work. Opened the cover -- and it worked again. And it kept working.So there you have it. The HomeLink only works with the cover off, while the keychain remote does not care. I don't know why, but I'll take it.

Easy install and great price compared to other Homelink compatible bridges

The receiver works great with the included keyFOB and has a long range. But when programmed with my Homelink button in my car with range was only but 10ft. Will be returning.

Use your own wire to the existing terminals pic 1, use your own 12volt DC power supply (cut off for two leads) pic 2, mount everything pic 3, plug it in and it works! Use the remote control supplied to link(HomeLink) your modern cars, we have a Buick and a Tesla. Took longer to write this review than install it. Great device!

Had a devil of a time programming this thing. The instructions were wrong and customer support had no clue. In case you're having trouble, try this: To program a remote--Press and hold the "learn" button of the receiver until the top LED turns off. Release the button. While the LED is off, press a button on a remote. The LED will come right back on solid and the remote will be programmed. Test it: one of the other two LEDs will come on when you press a remote button. To erase all the remotes: Press and hold the learn button on the receiver until the top LED turns off and then turns back on. Still holding the learn button, press a remote button. The LED will flash about 4 times then stay on. All the remotes will be erased.

Does NOT work with older genie units. I tested the wall switch to see if the proper voltage was available for this universal control and found that there was insufficient voltage, so I proceeded to use a 12v wall wart to power it. First issue was getting it to work via the "A" button on the remote. Never did, but it would work for a short time on the "B" button regardless of which terminals were used on the board. And speaking of that, the board and connectors on it have been redesigned, but the instructions have not. After finally getting the control to work with the door a few times, it abruptly quit when the power from the Genie opener simply stopped sending power to the original wall switch. Tried this, tried that, tried the other thing, and then finally simply disconnected the new control and waited for a few minutes till the Genie opener finally reset itself and the original door control began working again. There appears to be some kind of a voltage conflict that makes the Aleko control incompatible with my old Genie unit. Oh, and before I forget, during the brief time that the Aleko was operating the door, I attempted to synch it with the Homeminder control on the rearview mirror of my vehicle. No luck there either, and I suspect that it's because the Aleko is actually not Homeminder compliant as claimed..

Used this with a gate opener fob to "relay" the Homelink signal my car produces to a community gate that does not accept homelink. Since this device has relays for outputs, and the gate fob has actual "click" switches (not the little carbon pads that some remotes use), it was as simple as wiring the two together, with a tiny bit of soldering inside the gate fob.Since this takes 12V, I installed it in my car as "powered when the ignition is on".My car (Tesla Model S) can send a Homelink when ever the car nears a specific GPS coordinate... so the gate is now touch free. The car sends the Homelink, the wire hits the gate opener fob, and the gate opens.Note: The fob that comes with THIS devices is used ONLY to program the car homelink transmitter. It is not needed after that... but don't lose it, in case the car has to be reprogrammed later.

The Aleko LM317 is an excellent replacement for my 1970 Sears garage door opener receiver. The button fob transferred codes to both my 2000 Acura and 2014 Ram no problem. The range with the antenna still coiled and the Aleko on the wall opposite to the big door is about 10 metres, why do you need more? (dangerous?). Yes you need to supply 12 to 24 VDC - any small 12V adapter will do just strip the wires and observe polarity (use a meter?). The connections are clear on both the unit and manual. There are 2 SPDT relay outputs, one for each channel. They activate as long as you hold the button. You will normally need the normally open contact (Terminals 1&2, polarity irrelevant). I have channel 2 on a beeper, plan to hook it to a relay to trigger the outside flood lights. Reviews about poor instructions or difficult install must be for a different version or for those unfamiliar with this sort of thing. I suggest installing an inside on-off toggle switch to prevent garage entry if a vehicle is left outside. I wish I had put this in years ago to replace my single clunky old transmitter. Hope it lasts another 50 years, har.

Great range but can’t learn signal from other controls. It does work with the built in Ford buttons on the car.

Amount of remotes limited

the response range is below 20 feet, it works when I stand just in front of gate.

Easy to use, works as expected.