Varathane 215212 Sandable Wood Filler, 3.5 oz, Red Mahogany

My application was on walnut, filling minor voids and imperfect joints. I found this stuff very easy to work with and am delighted with the result. There is some shrinkage so anticipate a couple passes on larger voids. It sands nicely. My finish was poly only, which gives the filler a rich, natural sheen. I'll definitely be using this filler on future woodworking projects.

Product is excellent; requiring careful application. Clean up with water and sponge. Tip: use painters tape on edges of cracks.

The product worked to fill a hole in our wood flooring. The color was slightly off but I didn’t expect an exact match. I got y money’s worth.

I used this to rebuild the angled front feet of a Drexel dresser. Both front feet had broken sections of about 1/2"x3" missing on each side, leaving only the 2x2 solid interior support. It took me 2 weeks to slowly build up the edges and then sand it down to it's original design. It held up nicely to the heavy sanding required. The feet were then covered in a sheet of 10mil mahogany veneer. I was also able to mold a thin tubular rope design along the front where a 4" section was missing. I don't take pictures of my customer's jobs, but I was impressed.

The title says it all.I used this product on my dark walnut finished oak floors, and it works great for small imperfections. Where my floor is concerned there are a bunch of very minor issues, but there are also a couple of areas that require(d) a good bit more filler--something this product isn't very good for unless you have a lot of time and patience to finesse your patch job.More specifically, a couple of my 4" floor planks have depth/cracking within the grain pattern of the wood--to the point of creating a rough surface that I started to notice my socks were catching on. Worried that leaving these areas "as is" would inevitably lead to splintering and/or further damage, I attempted to patch them using this product.Well, the first worked well because I only filled/patched within the deepest area of the imperfection that easily maintained the darker/grained area of the wood plank. The second was a relative disaster as it was both a larger imperfection AND I attempted to fill/patch the entire area to bring level it out with the surrounding floor. The result was an ugly, obviously patched area that was an eyesore even after sanding and using my floor-matched stain pen.So...I got creative and used a letter opener to pattern the patched area like the surrounding patterns in the plank/floor. I also used another color stain pen to vary the color to better match the highlights of the floor as the dark walnut created a "dark only" patch. To be clear, I no longer have as smooth a surface as I was going for given that I gouged through the patch in multiple places-from the edge inward--down to the original wood. BUT, the result is MUCH better and blends better with the surrounding floor.One other bit of advice I can offer is to tape around the area you want to patch, so that when you lightly sand the patched area you don't mar the finish of the surrounding flooring. You'll inevitably have to remove the taping to get the smoothest finish, but you can go very lightly to protect the surrounding, finished areas (as much on the patched area and not the surround floor as possible).BOTTOM LINE: Works well for small, easily unnoticeable flooring areas, but doesn't work well for larger, easily noticeable areas. If you still choose to try it on larger areas, expect to put in a great deal of extra work to match and blend the patched area with the rest of your floor.

One of the floor planks in my son’s room cracked a couple weeks back and while I was able to glue a large piece back on, there were a few spots that had rough edges where I figured it would be best to repair.I was originally planning to use a normal stainable filler but found this last minute and decided to give it a go. A perfect match wasn’t expected but I was hoping it was close enough that I’d be happy with the time I saved.The filler was easy to use, I taped off the area, smeared it in, let it dry, then sanded flat to the floor. I was initially concerned since this was one of the darkest planks in his room and not really a normal “golden oak” finish, plus the filler dried REALLY light, but as soon as I hit it with some clear (water based) it got a lot closer to the color of the rest of the wood.If you don’t go looking for it you won’t find it.

This is the worse color match for cherry wood. It's more of a mahogany. Even on a minor defect, it would stand out like a sore thumb. This test was done on a piece of cherry wood. I would like to return this product for a full refund.

Read the instructions carefully. This product uses acid, and you don't want to get it in your eyes or on your skin. My application was very small for this large bottle. I had rust forming on the inside lid of my kitchen trash can. I applied the product, let it sit for 30 minutes (don't let it dry) and scrubbed with a heavy-duty bristle brush. While I have some pitting--and no product will fix that--the rust is now gone. The product says that protection against rust lasts for a year. REALLY pleased with how well this worked!