Genie Screw & Trac Drive Garage Door Opener Replacement Limit Switch 20113R

My Genie SD9000 model screw drive type garage door opener was installed in 1991, so it is basically 30 years old. I noticed my garage door started to run passed the maximum opening limit, and it just turned out that the wire spring on the open limit switch was bent and the plastic lever was also broken, so the limit switch needs to be replaced. I repaired the broken limited switch a bit so the garage door can be in operation as a temporary fix while waiting to purchase a new switch. I still keep the original owners manual on my SD9000, which shows the limit switch part number is 24454R, however, there is very little information on the 24454R, only a few sellers carry the limit switch with this part number. Although some have an interchange part number but none provides a definite description or statement to clarify that 20113R.S is the new replacement part number of 24454R. Worst, I checked the official Genie's website which says 20113R.S will not fit SD9000 or any SD Series. I then called Genie's tech support which the tech support person said that SD is very old, so they do not have any information on 24454R, and that Genie does not sell it or have the new replacement part number. Luckily I saw in the Q & A for this seller that there is one SD9000 owner said 20113R.S fits his garage door opener, so I bought two. The seller is very good, the shipping is fairly quick from Florida to California, ordered on Monday and got it on Friday. Yes, 20113R.S replaces 24454R and it does fit SD series garage door opener. The installation is very simple like everyone said. Lubed the screw track and my garage door opener now works great.

Works great! As others have noted, the hole for the screw that affixes the switch firmly to the rail doesn't seem to be threaded, so I suggest you get it started in the safety and comfort of a chair in your house rather than while balancing on a ladder in your garage. I also noticed that the moving contact seemed precariously close to the stationary one, so I bent it just a smidge to give it more clearance. If you're replacing a broken upper limit switch, the threads at the end of the long drive screw may have suffered damage when the opener continued trying to open the fully opened door. (Did you hear a horrible clattering when the door reached the top?) Thus you might want to install the new limit switch an inch or two farther from the opener (i.e., closer to the doorway) than the old one so that the damaged threads won't be used. Of course you'll need to make sure the door still opens far enough to give your vehicle plenty of clearance. Conversely, if you're replacing the lower limit switch and you've (previous to the switch breaking) had trouble with the door opening again immediately after closing, you'll want to install the new switch a fraction of an inch closer to the opener (i.e., farther from the doorway) than the old one was. This will keep the door from hitting bottom before the switch activates, causing the opener to mistakenly "think" that the door has hit some object on the way down. Indeed, if this is the only problem you've been having and the lower limit switch doesn't look like it's broken, try moving it before ordering a new one. Changes in spring tension over the years can cause the door to close slightly lopsided, necessitating moving the lower limit switch to a new position, even if it worked correctly when the opener was first installed. Good luck!

Work great

Fit a 20 year old Genie Pro Screw Drive perfectly. Very similar to factory original part, set screw is on the opposite side and switch black instead of white but it doesn't impact function. Came in a generic white box with no branding and no instructions making me suspicious of authenticity but so what; it worked fine and wasn't too expensive. Installing it it easy and pretty obvious what to do, but if you need assurance there are YouTube videos explaining it. Glad I got it, saved an expensive professional repair. So cheap and easy. Now that I've replaced the defective top (up) switch considering ordering another to do the down before it fails in old age. Order two and get yours done in one shot.

I just bought a 60 year old house that had two 30+ year old Genie garage door openers. The owners of the past 8 years were mechanically disinclined to the point of comedy, so much so that the broken uper limit switch on one of the door openers was replaced with a wine bottle cork at the extreme end of open travel. The *thunk* would wake my kids and trigger seismographs 50 miles away. This switch worked perfectly. Like other reviewers, the hole for the set screw was tight and unthreaded, but nothing that simply driving the screw through the hole didn't fix. Doesn't come with instructions, but didn't need too, but since it might help others (such as the previous owners of my house), here's some instructions: AS ALWAYS, REMOVE POWER FROM A DEVICE YOU'RE WORKING ON BEFORE YOU WORK ON IT. 1) Observe the limit switch you're trying to replace, noting which side of the track the trigger is on and where the wires attach. For installing the "open" switch, close the garage door, and for the "close" switch, open the garage door. 2) Remove the old limit switch, noting where the trigger was on the track. 3) Insert the new set screw in the new limit switch hole. This requires a nut driver as the limit switch is not slotted. Thread it through the hole plus an extra turn. 4) Stand on a ladder, milk crate, or other device such that you can get to the top of the track. 5) Place the limit switch on the track with the "trigger" side on the proper side, with the trigger at the same position as where you noted it previously. 6) Firmly tighen the set screw, do not over tighten as this may cause the trigger switch to rotate away from the spring on the door opener trolley. Plugh your garage door opener back in, 7) Check the operation to make sure your garage door limits are acceptable. 8) Since you're now knowledgeable about the limit switch operation of your garage door, adjust the other switch if you need too. On mine, the downward switch had moved, meaning the garage door would *thunk* when closing too. Moving it 1/4" up the track eliminated the thunk yet the door still closes all the way. The level of mechanical skill required to install this switch is virtually zero, however, as noted, a nut driver is required to install and tighten the set screw. No electrical knowledge is required, however, you have to remove the wires from the existing switch and install it on the new switch.

Why did you pick this product vs others?: I had the springs on my garage door replaced by a garage door guy. The garage door opener was also not working, but I didn't want to buy another. Luckly the repair guy for the springs mentioned it may be this part and explained to me how they were easily replaced. He was even nice enough to send me the part number. They were easy enough for me to replace myself with just a step ladder and a screwdriver. It worked and now my garage door opener works again.

This switch was what was needed to stop my garage door from staying closed. Easy to install and adjust the stopping point. I suggest marking the location of your old switch to get you close to the right location. This one was a lot better in reacting to the trigger so it took a few times of adjusting it correctly. Hopefuly for you, the orignal was installed with a terminal instead of sodering the wired to the switch contact directly. I guess this is not surprising due to the age of the opener that's still working after 45 years.

this saved me calling the overpriced garage repair guy

This switch is identical to the original part and works in the same way.

great replacement

I liked it was use for stopping the garage door

Too bad there wasn’t a picture from a different angle. This part doesn’t work for my garage door opener.

Works well