SUSEMSE Welder Foot Pedal 2+3 Pin for TIG Welding Machines Power Foot Plate Control Equipment

Absolute junk compared to advertised image. It doesn't have that nice rack and pinion in the images, the bolts are beyond loose, the pedal is just a flat bit of stamped steel without even the grip notches in the sellers image. Mine also had wires poking out of the poorly formed body.The polarity was also backward for my Rohr welder - This wouldn't be a massive problem if the rest of this was not junk.So now what? I have to return this crap to China and wait weeks for a refund? They have their product back to sell to another chump for £43, and I have a month of my time wasted?I've had poor products before, but this is something else. It's literally a scam selling this for £43. It is not what is pictured.

Good price does the job. Needed to swap the wires. Thanks

Works very well

When initially purchased, the variable current part didn't work, after taking it apart, it turned out a wire had become desoldered. It's a pretty sturdy unit, but some cost cutting meant that as well as the bad soldering, there was no strain relief on any of the cables 9all issues were fixable). That said, at this price point you can't really complain. It's a good pedal for the price otherwise.

As others have said, item listed is not as described. Picture is of a higher quality item probably taken from someone elses website. It will work but is of inferior quality and needs modifying for reliability.

Very pleased, pedal works well after a little re-wiring to suit my welder, customer service is excellent.

I bought this to modify for an older murex 14 pin machine. Pretty easy to mod, red and black go to A and B either way round. The yellow wiper from the pot goes to F, blue to E and green to G. Some models need a jumper from G to D too but not mine. Works well so much more control than the torch switch.

I purchased this to save me time creating a case from scratch, and in the knowledge that for my Rohr WSME200/250 it would require at least the wiring modifying.It took about 1.5 weeks for arrival to the UK from China, with good tracking via Yanwen and Royal Mail, with no import charges (listed as 5 USD value on the packaging!). It sat in an airport in China for a week, presumably waiting to fill a shipping crate before moving on to the UK, or a once-a-week shipment, and then quickly came from Heathrow via RM - not bad at all.On arrival, the external rotary potentiometer was poking through the cardboard box packaging - not a good sign, although it was also wrapped in bubble wrap and a jiffy bag. There was no control knob on the splines of the pot - either very cheap production, or it has been lost. (I suspect the first). Unlike the photographs shown on the product listing, the cable enters the box via a 5-pin aviation style connector, on the front of the box, so you have to pretty much have to stand on the cable to approach the pedal. I will be modifying this later to add a second 5-pin connector on the rear of the box (you could just move the existing connector if you wanted).Close examination of the internals reveal laughably poor soldering, and a change from the pictured rack and pinion driven rotary pot to a linear pot, driven by an arm off the foot pedal. Simpler, and cheaper to manufacture I guess. The pivot pin for the foot pedal really should have a nyloc nut, but is a plain nut - I have put a bit of blue threadlock on to stop it working loose in time, and the microswitch was out of alignment with the pedal, causing the switch to be pushed sideways, which would create wear and shorten its life. I shimmed the switch out from the casing with a couple of washers to bring it back into alignment.Many ask what the extra potentiometer is for - it is a current limiting resistor to enable you to set the maximum current on full depression of the foot pedal - it will allow anything from zero to the full welding set capacity - it's quite a nice touch on such a cheap unit, and will stop you overloading your tungstens or blowing holes in your workpiece.The connectors for the welder, were as described in one of the other reviews - two, and three bare wires going into the connectors, with no strain relief. Indeed, the strain relief screws weren't even done up, almost as though they are expecting you to dismantle these connectors to correct the wiring. The use of two connectors gives flexibility so you can still use your torch switch if you prefer, or just use the foot pedal as a switch, with arc control retained on the machine.After a quick probe with a multimeter, and reverse engineering the simple circuit, with the wire colours to the three pin connector being the same as described in Andrew L's review above, I followed his guide and switched the colours around to match, and tested, and the controls work as they should. With the internal wiring colours now being mismatched to the cable, I decided to move the internal wiring to match the cable - not necessary, but I'm fussy and it makes it easier for future fault finding.Having the 5-pin connector is nice, as it does allow you to make different cables to be made up for different welding sets if you have several. A friend has a tig welder with a 7-pin connector, so we could make an adaptor cable for that if we needed to. There seem to be no set standards for foot pedal connections across manufacturers, with them all deciding on their own connections, presumably in the hope they will sell more of their own brand expensive foot pedals.I have placed a few labels on the outside, a few cable ties on cabling inside, and improved the protection for the exposed wiring at the connectors with some heatshrink and a couple of small cable ties as strain relief.In use, I've found the pedal to be very usable, with about the right spring pressure under foot to make easy control of the arc, and it will transform a TIG machine without a pedal into a very controllable machine.In summary, these aren't heavy duty, but then neither are the welding machines you are likely to be using them with. Buy them as a cheap pedal to use as a base for modification and improvement, and they are fine, but don't buy them if you aren't capable of doing some simple modifications. The manufacturer is probably missing a trick by not selling at least a version of these specifically made for the WSME200/250's - I'm almost tempted to buy a few in and modify them and sell on. Overall, well worth the money I spent, including the mods I've done myself.I've given three stars, only because of the incredibly cheap production standards, and they do not produce a model "ready out of the box". It would be higher if the soldering had been better, there was a knob on the rotary pot, and five stars if it was ready to go.Pin 1 of the three pin connector for the Rohr WSME200/250 should be for the sweeper arm of the pot- in my case, the yellow wire. Pins 2 & 3 are connected to either end of the control pots - if the pedal is in reverse, simply swap them round, but in my case, I found Pin 2 should be green, and pin 3 should be blue, and it works correctly.

Il prodotto non è assemblato molto bene in più è arrivato danneggiato e come richiesto rispedito al venditore per il rimborso.Il venditore non ha mai effettuato il rimborso nonostante la merce gli sia arrivata, l'assistenza amazon ha provato ad aiutarmi richiedendo al venditore il rimborso ma senza successo...

Good

Le mie perplessità sul venditore sono state confermate. Imballaggio insufficiente e manopola range di controllo frantumata. Si sente all'interno qulcosa che balla... Dato che dovrò modificarlo per la mia saldatrice vedrò di cosa si tratta. Comunque giusto perché non avevo tempo di costruirlo da zero ma non vale i soldi spesi. 2 potenziometri ed un switch non costano più di 8 euro. Mi prendo del tempo per aprirlo e vedere se non c'è altro da riparare. Aggiorno tra qualche ora. Aggiornamento: aggiunti un po' di bulloni, al perno reggi movimento per il potenziometro primario (altrimenti non si sarebbe mosso in solido con il pedale) e al perno blocca fondo corsa del pedale che altrimenti si sarebbe svitato correndo il rischio di rompere il potenziometro primario a slitta per eccesso di spinta. Cercherò tra i miei materiali una manopola per sostituire quella rotta.