National HardwareN280-347 V7618 Torsion Spring Lift Cables in Galvanized, 2 pack,8'8" x 3/32"

The product itself was an almost exact replacement for the cables on my sectional garage door. My door was manufactured by the Ideal Door Co. around 1987. It covers a 7' x 16' opening and has a standard (not low-overhead) track.The reason I didn't award this product five stars is that the instructions have you doing a lot of unnecessary and potentially dangerous work unwinding and winding torsion springs while the door is in the down position. The process they detail is really not necessary if you are just replacing the cables. There is an alternate method I used which involves replacing the cables while the door is open (and the springs unloaded). This method is safer and much faster than the tedious procedure described in the instructions. It should take you only about 10 min. per side. Always replace both cables - this set contains two. If the door was balanced when the old cables were new, it should remain balanced with the new cables and not require any further adjustment unless your old cables were substantially longer or shorter. But if that is the case, you probably shouldn't be using this product anyway. Instead, get the correct length / diameter to match what you're replacing. Here's a well done source for instructions on how to perform the replacement procedure I used.Go to Youtube and and add the following to the URL: /watch?v=XzsQuFj5ygUThe tools you'll need are:- Needle nose pliers (to bend the cable and possibly to assist in removing the loop end from the post fitting on the door.)- (2) Vice Grip pliers. (one for locking the door in the track so it doesn't fall down when you disconnect the door opener link or the old lift cable, and one for gripping and turning the shaft to slightly tension the springs when re-attaching the loop end of the cable to the post on the bottom of the door.- Puncture proof gloves (optional, but highly recommended in case the old cable is frayed near the top where you can't necessarily see it easily)- Shatterproof eye protection (any time you're working with something springy like this cable there is a risk that it can get away from you and strike an unprotected eyeball).- Sturdy 6' stepladder.- Possibly a short handle prying tool or awl or 6-8" pointed alignment tool to aid in prying the loop end of the old cable off of the post it's attached to on the bottom of the door. I didn't need any tool to assist in putting the new cable over the post as the loop was just barely large enough to force it over with my fingers.A couple of hints that might apply to your situation:1) Once you've completed the installation, check that the cables don't have any slack in them when the door is in the open position. If they do, there is a risk of the cables jumping out of their tracks on the drum or the loop coming off the post. If yours is loose, you have two options. Either adjust the door opener so that the door doesn't open far enough for the cables to go slack. Or if that isn't an option, you'll need to increase the tension by a quarter turn or so on BOTH torsion springs. But this requires messing with the winding cones on the ends of the springs and is potentially DANGEROUS. It also requires special winding bars that fit correctly in the cones and an understanding of what's going on. Do this wrong and you can get hurt. While it's not rocket science, and is actually part of the procedure that National recommends for replacing these cables, it does bring the job to a whole new level of potential risk that most casual DIYers should probably avoid. But if you're experienced mechanically it shouldn't be much of a challenge.2) Once the new cables have been installed, open and close the door by hand (the opener linkage should still be disconnected). The door should travel smoothly and not require much force. It should stay closed when you let go if it in the closed position and remain open (or maybe lightly try to close) while in the open position. Ideally, it should stay put when half open. I wouldn't get too worried about if you have to exert light force to keep in in any of these positions, but if the door seems like it wants to fall or spring back up with significant force when you let it go then it will need some further attention to get it back to balance. The same is true if the door is racked (top not parallel with the top of the door frame or bottom not parallel with the floor). To correct this, you (or a professional you hire) will again have to resort to adjusting the winding cones on the springs. It's also possible that whomever did the original install used the wrong springs for the weight and height of your door and they will have to be replaced. If you have an unbalanced or racked door, you will likely be repairing the opener/track/door components soon so you might as well get it right before reconnecting the opener. There is a good tutorial on how to make these adjustments from the same source I linked above for those of you who are mechanically inclined and willing to assume the risk.3) While not strictly necessary, now would be a good time to test the operation of the safety switches and sensors that are part of the garage door opener controls (assuming you have an opener of course). You'll want to test that an obstacle placed in the light beam between the two optical sensors on the inside bottom of both vertical tracks prevents the door from responding to a command to close. You should also place a 2 x 4 (flat side down) or something similar on the floor in the center of the door opening and verify that when the door closes and hits the obstruction it reverses and fully opens. If these haven't been checked in awhile (years maybe...) they can get out of adjustment.Good luck with replacing your door cables. Writing this review took me a lot longer than actually replacing both of mine. Just consider following the alternate instructions I linked above and it should be a piece of cake.

I snapped a cable and needed a replacement, but all the local stores I searched didn't stock the 3/32" cables. I looked at Lowes, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, and Menards... but the only cables I found were 1/8" think and they didn't work on the cable spools on my doors.Thus, Amazon Prime to the rescue. I bought these cables and they were on my doorstep less than two days later. Installation was a snap (If you have never done this, there are a number of YouTube video tutorials available). In my case I replaced both cables because I didn't want to have to come back and do the other side a few months later. It was a simple process and required basic hand tools and 20 minutes of my day. These thinner cables wind up on the spools as they should and solved my issue.The original cables were most likely from when my house was built back in the late 80s, therefore it took around 25 years for one of them to rust through to the point it finally failed where it connects to the door. Because of this I don't imagine I'll be doing this job again anytime soon - but if you're like me and can't find these locally this is probably a safe bet. Just be sure you order the proper length (measure the old cables to be sure you get the same).

I was not able to find these replacement cables on the local hardware store and I did not want to take the chance of making my own due to the high tension places on these by the springs. I had one of my original ones break due to corrosion on my 7' garage door. These are very easy to replace... just watched a couple of the youtube videos. Just be mindful of the the energy potential that is in the springs. I had the door all the way to relieve some of this tension and replaced one at a time. These work perfectly. You can't find them in the big box stores. They fit perfectly.

This works well, but is barely long enough for an 8-foot door. You only get about 5 degrees of rotation on the pulley when installing this. This means that all the stress of the initial lift of the door is on the swage instead of the cable. If you have door opener, this is not quite as big of a deal but is much less than an ideal situation should one of the swages fail. The product description appears to have changed since I bought these, now adding that these are for a 7-foot door. What has not changed is the description that these are 8'-8" when in fact they are 88".

These cables were the perfect size and had the right connections for my garage door. My last cable rusted through after 20+ years of use. It was simple enough to thread the new one and set the garage door up again. I would suggest looking at YouTube videos for help with that. They really explain how to adjust everything on your door.Locally they were asking over $30 for just one cable. I'm glad I didn't jump on that. These were much less expensive and I would be shocked if I ever had to replace them again.

Perfect fit for my Overhead Door garage door

fit my door good.

As described

Absolutely easy to install(with the help of youtube)They seem very strong. I'm hopeful they will last long. They were longer by 2 inch but I found out how to tighten the tension wheel.

Appear to be better quality than what had originaly been supplied with the door. Came exactly as pictured and installed easily. If I didn't figure I'd forget where I'd put them, I'd order a second set now for when the 2nd door breaks.

Fairly easy to install. Make sure you do it with the garage door up to save time.

Excellent value

Instructions were a bonus, and good quality, working great!