9" /10" Spokeshave for woodworking with 6pcs Metal Blades & 4-Way Rasp File

These arrived today; as expected, they are not in any condition to begin work right out of the package. About 20 minutes of fettling, and it is the equal of my old Stanley spokeshave bought some 40 years ago. I start by dismantling the tool and then grinding the paint off the bottom using 100 grit self adhesive sandpaper stuck to a granite block (I also use this for removing imperfections and establishing the bevel on old and new (bargain store) chisels). The process also flattens the sole of the spokeshave. I then turned to the blade, starting on the same sandpaper to get rid of the vertical striations on the beveled surface of the blade. I didn't remove them completely, but the 1/8-3/16 inch cutting edge was flat; then put them on the diamond stones, the same as I use for chisels and plane blades, to sharpen them. Removed the burr and flattened the back, retouched the bevel, and then honed them on the strop. Tested it on a piece of beech wood; it gives me the same types of shavings as the old Stanley. I did compare the smoothness of the soles; I think if I go through to fine grits of sandpaper on the sole, it will be just as smooth and a tad easier to use. All in all, you can spend about $20 for both the large and small spoke shave, and with about a half hour of work, you will have a tool every bit as good as the more expensive spokeshaves available here (which, by the way, will also require some fettling before they reach their top performance as well). The blade holder and its knurled knob are not as substantial as on the more expensive planes, but they work just fine.

Decent quality at fair price.

Haven’t tried it yet but looks solid, 9 days on shipping, unimpressed.

So these aren't terrible by any means. It just depends on what you're looking to do with them to see if they'll suit your needs. I bought them after deciding to make some spoons/spatulas/etc. with some of my "scrap" material laying around my shop. The blades are sufficiently sharp and seem to be of a pretty good tool steel quality. Wouldn't call it high end tool steel but they'll work right out of the package for a lot of rough carpentry. The bases are painted and if you decide to use the tools right away then you'll notice some of the paint wearing off onto your work. I'd recommend taking these apart first and getting the paint off the working surface. Use some spray adhesive on the back of 400 or 600 grit sandpaper and stick it to a flat surface. Then run the tool across the paper until you flatten the tool and remove the paint on the working surface. Apply some good wax to the tool and put it back together. (Might as well be sure the blade has a good edge while you're at it) These will work with a little love, they're good to learn on. Check out Paul Sellers on Youtube for some guidance to setting them up

They were sharp and usable out of the box. I always have anything like this sharpened further to ensure that the tool is max effective.

Received mine yesterday right on time. Unfortunately, that is the only good thing I can say. 1. The set screw was in the wrong place. The threaded hole was 1/16 inch off to one side making it necessary to file away one side of the base so it could go in straight. 2. The set screw hole was threaded out of perpendicular by 10 or 15 degrees. Unfortunately, that was the opposite direction from the small slope of the cover plate. Absolutely would not hold the cover plate well. 3. Big lump cast into the base where the blade has to sit flat. Had to file it away. 4. Corners of the throat through the base were full of excess cast metal. Had to file it away before the blade would seat completely. 5. The bottom face of the base was concave and rough. Had to file away the paint and a lot of excess cast metal. 6. The blade was very crudely sharpened. The edge was curved (end to end), the edge was rough like a fine saw blade, and there was a large bur left on the back side. I spent several hours fixing these problems as best as possible. In the end I did manage to get it assembled. But, it failed miserably when I tried to use it. I didn't bother to try assembling the smaller one. It is good they include a rasp so you have an alternative tool to do the job. But, I finally used my good ol' Stanley block plane. This piece of junk is on its way back.

Very simple way to take down high spots on studs. Used when straightening out a few studs that were not aligned before putting in a tile backsplash.

Out of the box, the soles and frog are painted over and definitely not flat. However, if you have the tools and the time, you can flatten, sharpen these cheap chinese spokeshaves and really make them sing. For the price, it's really hard to beat, especially for two along with extra knives. Oh yeah and a rasp.

Bought this for a project i was taking on, Made my life a-lot easier. Just make sure the depth isn't too aggressive if you plan to take a little bit of material at a time.

The handles are a little uncomfortable but I plan to probably wrap them with hockey tape or something to make them better. Other than that it's a pretty good spokeshave for the price!

Does exactly what you would expect a spokeshave to do. having 2 makes it a good thing if you've got more than one worker. Extra accessories are always nice, and I've a mind to make a plane with the replacement parts, though I'm hesitant. It remains a possibility.

Unit broke in half the first time I used it

Out of the box, neither spokeshave was usable at all. The bottom being painted, it would be a mistake to use just as it (as mentioned in other reviews) since the paint can rub off on the wood and it's also just not smooth. It's also not flat so you'll have to flatten it (I removed the paint with a file and then flattened it with 80 grit sandpaper followed by 400 grit diamond plate. Took roughly 20 minutes). The mouth itself has all kinds of imperfections. In one of the spokeshaves the mouth was so bumpy and uneven that the blade itself couldn't be adjusted as it didn't move. You'll have to fix and square the mouth with a file to get it usable. I did this but I'm thinking I might also sand that area where the blade sits to make it flat and even. Lastly, you'll have to work on the blades. The bottom needs to be flattened and then either by hand or with a honing guide you'll have to fix the edge and sharpen (out of the blades the edge looks uneven and a bit nicked. Can't cut unless you use force). After that, it worked pretty well. I already have the tools to fix all of these problems BUT if you don't, then you'll have to consider the price of those tools and materials when buying this. It might be better to get a more expensive spokeshave that is more usable out of the box. One important thing I think should be mentioned is that even though it is very nice that it comes with so many replacement blades, ALL of mine, including the ones already installed, had these blue spots. I'm a beginner so I'm not that knowledgeable but I believe this happens when you heat up a blade too much and it loses its temper which leads to it becoming softer and not holding an edge as well. I don't know if this is the case for these blades and I'm not sure how to test this but keep that in mind. Had I known I would receive the blades in this state, I wouldn't have bought this. I knew it'd have to do a lot to the spokeshaves to make them good but the problem with the steel (if it did indeed lose its temper) is not something that can be fixed.