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🔧 Seal it once, fix it for good – the aluminum putty pros swear by!
The H-450 Alumbond 6.5 oz Aluminum Putty Repair Kit by HY-POXY is a waterproof, aluminum-compatible epoxy putty designed for durable repairs on metal surfaces. With a 45-minute working time and full cure in under 5 hours, it offers a professional-grade solution trusted by thousands to fix leaks and cracks, saving costly replacements.

| ASIN | B001RMITIA |
| Best Sellers Rank | #51,985 in Office Products ( See Top 100 in Office Products ) #34 in Adhesive Putty |
| Brand | HY-POXY |
| Brand Name | HY-POXY |
| Colour | Silver |
| Compatible Material | Aluminium |
| Container Type | Tube |
| Country of Publication | USA |
| Customer Reviews | 4.5 out of 5 stars 1,332 Reviews |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00683873444500 |
| Item Form | Putty |
| Item Package Quantity | 1 |
| Item Weight | 0.44 Pounds |
| Manufacturer | HY-POXY |
| Manufacturer Part Number | H-450 |
| Model | H-450 |
| Number of Pieces | 1 |
| Other Special Features of the Product | Aluminum Compatible, Waterproof |
| Special Feature | Aluminum Compatible, Waterproof |
| Specific Uses For Product | Repair |
| UPC | 683873444500 |
| Unit Count | 1.0 Count |
| Viscosity Level | Medium to High |
| Volume | 191.73 Millilitres |
| Water Resistance Level | Waterproof |
J**A
Sealed up Boiler leak
I have an aluminum heat exchanger in my home heating boiler (Utica UB90). I drain the system and refill every year to maintain proper PH. The boiler developed a leak at the bottom of the heat exchanger, looks like the gasket material between the two plates failed. The boiler is 16 years old which is right at the life of an aluminum heat exchanger so I attempted to patch the leak. Tried JB Weld, 2-3 variations, with no luck. Use Permatex which held for 3 months, then I found this product. I got the boiler up to temp so the heat exchanger was hot. Cleaned the surface, roughed it up with a wire wheel, mixed the compounds as instructed, and applied to the leak. Let the boiler completely cool and as it did, I noticed the compound was pulled into the seam, so mixed a little more and applied. You have 45 minutes working time before the material gets too hard to spread, hardens at 1 hour and fully cured in 4-5 hours. Four hours later I fired the boiler, leak was sealed, and I am going on 1.5 years with no issues. This is a problem solver which saved be roughly $3,000.
A**N
غراء قوي وصلب
غراء قوي وصلب لسد الفتحات وعيبه لاينشف بسرعة يحتاج إلى ساعات
J**A
Did what it was supposed to do.
I bought this product after JB let me down. I had a cracked door frame on my RZR. When I say cracked i mean completely separated Look, I’m not an exact measurement kind of guy when it comes to this stuff. I squeezed what looked like equal portions onto a piece of cardboard. Found a clean broken piece of trim . Mixed up the solution for maybe a minute. Directions say 3. The epoxy is a little runny but not that bad. If you needed it to flow into a space it would with the help of gravity. It’s not going to pour like oil. I then put it on the cracked area with the broken stick. Smeared it around cover the crack and other area. Kept the kids away for a bit and 3 hrs later I checked it. Some of the solution flowed into the cracks and you could see a partial outline. 5 hours later I mixed up more in the same order and speared it on. Let sit over night. This morning went out there, checked the area. Dried solid. I opened the door and slammed it 10 times in a row. The solution did not crack and the door was holding up good. I’ll report back if it breaks.
K**O
Works perfectly for my modified aluminum radiator fan tabs
I have a 04 Maxima and they don't exactly make an aftermarket aluminum radiator fan mount. I did however grab specs off Mishimoto's website to compare my radiator to a 350z which is essentially the same engine but different placement in the engine bay. So I grabbed an aluminum radiator support for a 350z and cut off the original tabs and used this Hy-Poxy H-450 to reattach tabs at the correct location to fit my 04 Maxima mounting points. I used scrap cardboard and takeout chopsticks to mix the two parts together and surprisingly it spread very easily. Not too runny and not stiff where it makes it spreading difficult. I did have to let it sit overnight to fully cure and the next morning once I removed my clamps it was rock hard. Key tips are to make sure to wipe down the area with ISO alcohol before applying. Scuffing the aluminum with a stiff wire brush or coarse sandpaper will help with bonding. If you also use wax paper under the project you're working on it'll help from sticking to your work area. I opted for this since I tried to use aluminum brazing rods with a digital temp gun and MAP gas and it quickly went downhill once I got the parts to 700 degrees.
A**M
Better than other epoxys for water block on cast aluminum water block on a outboard, but...
I bought this to use on the water block for my 2002 outboard boat motor. Its a salt water boat. Some genius used an impact wrench to tighten the bolts and put a MAJOR crack in it. Pros: For my application it has worked longer than the other epoxys i have tried. Ive used JB weld and Marine tex. It held for several hours of use and is pretty easy to apply after buffing the surface of the block. Cons: Unfortunately the block "powders" and still causes issues with bonding... but i cant really blame that on the alumbond. All in all i do think this is an excellent solution for sealing any holes in cast aluminum. I'm not sure about drilling and tapping, but i assume that it would work if your surface bonds better than mine does. Its a great temporary fix for a terminal motor.
Trustpilot
4 days ago
2 months ago