Headlight Restoration Kit, Restores to Like-New Condition

I just finished three lights on a rav4, which were a little bit of a pain because of their complicated shapes, One was a rear which is two separate pieces. I did only one rear because I had just replaced the other one due to cracks in both sections. Side by side comparison- the refinished ones look as good or better then the new one although there are some slight defects in the finish. Clarity is superb. I did a bit more sanding than was probably required but one was in pretty bad shape. It already looked like it had been sanded with 400 grit before I started but it hadn't. Don't skimp on sanding, be careful to be thorough and not miss spots. Better to over sand as you are not really removing much material at those grits. Apply sealer in the shade and you'll get a more forgiiving application window. I could pick my work apart up close but from even just a couple feet back it really looks great. I could do it over I think and clean up a couple imperfections , but truthfully it looks so good now I won't mess with it for as long as this coat lasts. I needed to do something like this or replace my lights so I saved about $4oo dollars with this kit.Kit works really well and I consider it a bargain.

I own a seventeen-year-old Toyota Yaris hatchback (152,000+ miles), which has been parked outside in the sun and elements all of its life. I'd already had the headlights resurfaced (by the Toyota team) many years ago—but my headlights were, by this point in time, at the stage of not passing annual inspection. Replacing both headlight units at the dealership (including labor) would have cost in excess of $700, so I figured—why not try this, and see what happens! The results are really terrific. As "like new" as you're going to get with a seventeen-year-old car which is parked outside. Here would be my observations having just done this project this morning (without access to a hose, mind you!). The instructions are worth reading a couple of times before you take-on the project. It's, actually, a lot easier than the very detailed instructions might imply. Just go step by step, doing each step to both headlights before you move on to the next step, and you'll be fine. 1) Bring lots of water, and a spray bottle (as recommended in the instructions). I filled up some clean milk-cartons I'd saved for the project, and just refilled the spray bottle from those as needed. Super easy. I used about three milk-cartons of water (1.5 gallons). You'll need lots of water-spray as you sand with the provided grades of sandpaper. I would recommend starting (with the first grade of sandpaper) with light to medium pressure, then move to more consistent medium pressure. The second and third grades of sandpaper really are very smooth and fine, and you can finish-off the third grade of sandpaper with a really light pressure. Be patient, and go for a truly smooth surface. I did the recommended circular motions both clockwise, and counter-clockwise, to ensure the smoothest possible finish. Worked like a charm. 2) Regarding the activator spray (with which you will start and, toward the end, use again): I used about 2/3rds of the spray on the first stage (both headlights), dissolving the initial oxidation and grime. I feared I'd not have enough with just 1/3rd by the end, but I had plenty. I'd bring a soft sponge, too, just to ensure that you get the lenses fully clean between steps. I found having extra soft, clean rags helpful with drying as well. 3) Painter's tape definitely protects your paint around the headlight, so take the time to mask-out your light, and protect your paint. The only thing I'd suggest, is to spray-clean your paint-surface after your remove the painter's tape following use of the polishing compound. Some of the polishing compound gets under the tape, so just give that a rinse before you dry the lenses and apply the final UV gloss-coating. Keeps things neat and clean around the lenses. 4) As for the gloss-coating: you really can be very generous applying it to the provided blue-cloth. I was a tiny bit stingy on the first headlight, fearing I might not have enough product for the second headlight. Don't worry ... you'll have plenty of UV product left over when you're done. I'd really soak the entire blue-rag well, and apply generously. I can see a *very* tiny difference between the first headlight I did (where I was more stingy applying the UV gloss-coating) and the second (where I was more generous). It's so slight you'd never see it. Just rest assured that you'll have plenty of UV gloss by the end of the project, as it spreads evenly, smoothly, and well—so be generous in applying it. The best part? If I get any haze again, this was probably the easiest headlight-repair imaginable. I'll just do it again! And I saved about $700 to boot. You just need to set aside the time to do each step well and carefully. It took me perhaps an hour and a half from start to finish (and I was moving slowly and carefully), with some time thereafter cleaning up and just standing around to ensure no falling autumn leaves fell on the UV gloss while it was still wet. Just went to check on the headlights, and they're completely dry to the touch, and very smooth and glossy. This is a terrific product! Easy to use, great instructions, and a really fine result. I look forward to seeing the longevity of the product.

This is a fantastic product, that really works! It's far better than anything else on the market and it's guaranteed to last as long as you own your car, that's quite a guarantee! A couple of major points to remember Take your time Take your time Clean the lens and dry. Use the spray activator. Take your time. You need to sand the headlight lenses with all three of the sandpapers using each one for approximately 2 to 3 minutes each. It's not really that tedious it just takes patience. Take your time. Use the activator again. Rinse and dry the lens completely. When using the UV protector make sure you are not in the sun and that it is not a windy day this will impede your progress. Wipe the protector across the lens one time but overlapping. Do not try to rework it once you have applied the coding it will leave streaks. Take your time. Follow the directions and the headlight will look like new. The biggest caveat is that if you mess up you have to go back to square one and repeat the entire process over again. So, in a nutshell, take your time and it should go smoothly.

In general, this product provided good results, but there were a few issues with using the kit that I wish I had been aware of before using it to produce better results. The instructions provided with the kit are clear and detailed, which is important because there are multiple steps involved in using the kit and all have to be done in the correct order and with the necessary thoroughness to produce good results. I was able to apply tape to the paint surrounding the headlights and go through all of the necessary steps to finish the process in about two hours. All of the materials needed to complete the process are included in the kit, except for two basic tools I needed to use the kit on my car that is parked outside my apartment complex in a parking lot, with no access to a garage or a water supply. I needed to add to the kit materials several 32-ounce water spray bottles and a roll of paper towels. With those two items, and the items provided with the kit, I was well-equipped to complete the steps described in the instructions. The main issue I had with using the kit and producing the desired results arose from applying the UV protection treatment that is the last step in the process. The instructions state that the user must apply the UV protection treatment liquid on an included paper cloth in even, continuous strokes across the headlight cover, overlapping the previous stroke slightly. This did not work in practice to produce a clear headlight cover on one of the two headlights on my car. In reality, overlapping the previous stroke of applying the UV protection liquid acted to disrupt the liquid already applied on one of the two headlights and created some mild haze in the final appearance of some portions of the headlight cover. Once that haze appears there is no way to correct the problem - as going over the problem areas again will only make the issue worse (per the instructions, which warn the user not to touch the headlight covers after applying the UV protection liquid). The other issue I had with the product is the complexity and time involved in using it. There are other kits that have fewer steps and take less time. For example, one of the liquids supplied in this kit has to be applied and then washed off four times during the completion of all of the steps in this process for both headlights. However, this kit has a good reputation for producing quality results that last longer than some other similar products. So, I am still pleased that I used this product for my first experience in headlight restoration, as it did a good job eliminating the heavy, opaque discoloration caused by long-term exposure to the sun and the headlights look much better than they did before using the product. One headlight looks new, and the other looks clear except for a light haze where the UV protection liquid seems to have dried slightly cloudy in some areas. I am guessing that the light output from the headlight with the slight haze in some areas will not be affected significantly from the haze. So, with the warning that this kit takes time and effort to use correctly, and with the additional warning that you should try not to overlap your application strokes of the UV protection liquid (contrary to the instructions) and try not to re-touch the surface after applying each stroke of that liquid, I can recommend the kit.* *One other issue I have with the product is the alleged warranty. I tried to register the product on the Sylvania website, so I could enroll in the warranty. However, the website requires that I provide my telephone number to register the product. I am not willing to provide my telephone number, due to the unknown risks that it will be sold to others or stolen and used by criminals, so enrolling in the warranty is not possible for me.

I am very pleased with the results of using this product. I would purchase this kit again in a heartbeat, as the headlights on my wife's Lexus now look virtually new. Gone is all the yellowing, hazing and surface roughness that was there before. Amazing improvement. We always park our cars in the garage, so I imagine my refurbishment will last longer than some people's. As such, this was an awesome twenty bucks to spend. Perhaps I was more thorough than required, but it took me about 80 minutes to do both headlights, not 30 minutes like the package says. 30 minutes per light would be a decent estimate, perhaps. My job took a bit longer than expected 'cause I purchased some 2500-grit wet sandpaper so as to make the final sanding coat even finer than the 2000 grit included in the kit. While I was doing the work, I wondered if I should also do a pass with 4000-grit sandpaper. Not exactly, but I would add a pass with 4000-grit, yes. If I was to do the job again, I might start with something less coarse than the 400-grit that's included in the kit, as I think it scratches the lenses a bit too much; some sand marks are still visible (**barely** and only with **very** close scrutiny) after completion of the job. I did NOT skimp on the sanding steps at all, so this is not a case of my not being thorough enough. Having done some of my own bodywork and painting, I know all too well that skimping on sanding = high cortisol later on in the job. The kit worked out well, but I wish that Sylvania included twice as much of the surface activator. Tip: Start spraying at the TOP of your headlight and let gravity coat further down for you, thus saving on activator. You use activator TWICE on each headlight, not once, so conserve if you can. Another tip: I recommend filling a gardener's sprinkling can with water, not using the hose, particularly if you work on one headlight at a time like I did. If you do work on one at a time, pay close attention to the wind and be sure not to splash water on your just-completed first headlight. I used blue painter's tape and did an extremely careful tape job, just as if I were going to paint the headlight. Tip: be extra careful and precise with your tape job. As you start sanding, you'll thank yourself for the careful tape job. The blue tape doesn't stick as aggressively as the electrical tape included in the kit, and the blue tape wanted to let go of the car as the job progressed. This wasn't a deal-breaker for me, but you might achieve better long-term adhesion with the included tape. No matter which tape you use, protect more of the car than you think you need to. The clarifying compound seems similar to me to the 3M rubbing compound I've been using on our cars for years. I didn't run out of clarifying compound like I thought I might. If I had, I'd have used 3M rubbing compound, too. Be careful when applying the UV clearcoat and do your best to keep it off the car. By then, you will have been instructed to remove the tape from around the headlight, thus it'll be easy to "color outside the lines" if you're not careful. I thank Sylvania for marketing such a helpful, easy-to-use product. I am proud of the work I did with this kit...and proud that I was smart enough not to pay $175-$300 for headlight restoration, which are the prices I was quoted by a top detail shop and the dealership.

The instructions are thorough, understandable, and easy to follow. The entire sanding + sealant procedure took about four hours, total, for me; your time may be shorter because I took additional time sanding before applying the sealant/UV overcoat. The process is pretty easy: mask with painter's tape, sand, polish, and seal. I have no photos attached because I worked in a garage and my before/after photos were lousy. But, the net result was fantastic: like new, mirror finish. Overnight to cure the coating, then washed, waxed, and vacuumed the car to match the renewed headlamps. Result: 'a new car'. It looks really good. Following the suggestion of other reviewers, I used 3000-, 5000-, and 7000-grit paper (not included) for polishing beyond the 400-, 1000-, and 2000-grit papers provided in the kit. The net result was a finish that was almost clear even before applying the overcoat. I was extremely happy with the end result. Here is the 3000/5000/7000 kit I used; I highly recommend it, as well: AUSTOR 18-piece 3000/5000/7000 sanding paper (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078HG5R8W?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) My hints for great results. 1. Use water often and plentifully. Keep the sandpapers and the lenses wet, all the time. 2. Grab a roll of paper towels and wipe the lenses clean, often, while sanding. It really helps with the sanding and it keeps your work area cleaner. 3. Keep a bucket nearby to toss your paper towels into and to keep your used sandpapers semi-clean, if you want to reuse them. Toss the sandpapers on top of the paper towels; they will protect them from a dirt on the floor or ground. 4. Don't be afraid to go back to lower grit sandpaper to touch up an area that still look a little rough. My idea was to do the best I could before coating rather than hoping that the coating would cover any flaws. 5. Buy and use the 3000-grit sandpaper. The 5000-7000-grit might be overkill but I was impressed with the results using them . 6. Use a light-to-moderate touch when sanding. Take your time: sand, rinse, wipe, inspect, resume, repeat. 7. Make two passes with the brown polishing liquid. Use one-quarter of the polishing liquid for the first pass on each lens, rinse, wipe, rinse, wipe with a paper towel, and inspect. If it looks good, polish a second time with the rest of the liquid and the provided white cloth. Using a paper towel first will give you a good idea of how well you did your sanding before you use up all of your polishing liquid. When I finished with the sanding and polishing, wiping on the UV protecting sealant went on so smoothly. 8. I recommend using nitrile gloves to apply the sealant. They fit better and do a great job protecting your hands from the sealant. They are pretty cheap and have a hundred other uses around the house.

I researched different products and this brand, Sylvania Headlight Restoration Kit, had the best reviews. (I paid about $23.) My headlights were pretty bad... foggy and significantly yellow. It took me about an hour and a half to complete the job. I was a little worried that I might mess it up, so I was pretty cautious and deliberate and took my time. (There are videos on YouTube showing how to use the kit, including one put out by Sylvania, but I actually found a video by a layperson to be more detailed and helpful.) I followed the directions, beginning by pre-washing the headlights to remove any foreign matter. (I used Dawn dishwashing liquid and a sponge.) I put painters tape around the headlights for some protection. First you spray the headlight with a surface activator, washing it off after 30 seconds. You then sand the headlights for 5 minutes while using each grade of sandpaper, starting with the corsist. Next, you apply a clarifying compound, rubbing it in for about 30 seconds and then washing it off. Lastly, you spray the surface activator once again, leaving it for 30 seconds, and then washing it off. You repeat the same steps on the other headlight. Once you've completed both and have washed and thoroughly DRIED them, you're ready for the final step which is to apply the UV Block Clear Coat. (The directions say that you should try to apply as thick a coat as possible for maximum protection, but not to repeat or reapply on treated areas. I found that rather difficult. I wonder if using a sponge would have been more helpful with putting on a thicker coat, rather than the cloth they provided.) I still had almost half the bottle left over when I finished, so I'm not sure how long or how well they will hold up. I'll have to update my review from time to time.) After completing the restoration, the directions say that they need to cure for 4 to 6 hours. During this time, they can't be exposed to moisture. So you have to make sure it's a nice day, (but don't do it in direct, strong sunlight or frigid temperatures), or do it in a garage or other covered area. I took these pictures just before, and then just after, I treated them. They'll need to cure overnight. I don't know if that will will improve or change their appearance. For the shape my headlights were in, I'm amazed and extremely happy at how clear they look. I'll just have to wait and see how long the clarity lasts. (The thinner layer of UV block might cause it oxidize and degrade more quickly.) I definitely recommend this product. I'm extremely happy with the end result.

Aside from completely stripping and repainting an entire car, I've not done any project to a car that made such a visual difference in recent past. I was debating going without food just to buy new headlight for my C6 Corvette. I did the research and found this kit to be the overall favorite for best results. The claims are absolutely true. Even if your headlights are a "basket case", like mine were, it's just a matter of time and effort to make your headlights look almost new. Previously, these had been sanded and sprayed with clear lacquer. That did not work, so My headlights were to a point where they didn't work with the lights on. night driving was dangerous as I couldn't see well enough to react. So, I had to sand these down using my own sandpaper until they were at a point where I could follow the instructions. I spent about 3 hours just sanding them to get the lacquer off. After following the instructions carefully, the transformation was amazing. They look worst just before they begin to look great! I had a bit of the final clear solution left, so I gave them a second coat, which works fabulously. They honestly look and function like new lenses right up to about 18 inches away. From there, you can see very fine checking of the plastic and minute streaking from my untrained application. This is the best solution for dangerously clouded and ugly headlight lenses. Your friends and family will be stunned and amazed.

This is the third time these headlights have been restored. Wait, let me rephrase that. This is the third ATTEMPT to restore these headlights. The first time the dealer cleaned them up a bit so it would pass the bi annual safety inspection. It lasted almost one year. The second time I did it myself with another brand of restoration kit. It got them clear enough to pass another safety inspection but I wasn't very pleased with the result. This time I did some more research and found this Sylvania Headlight Restoration Kit. It was highly rated and Boy! were they right! As you can tell from the before, during and after photos I've included this kit really works. Except for a couple of pretty deep stone... um dents I'll call them because they're not really chips, the headlights are as good as new. I very definitely recommend this kit to anyone that wants to have headlights that shine like new without the expense of replacing them. Now, that being said, I have some advice. Follow the instructions! They are very clear and take you through the whole process step by step. Do not try to hurry through. If it says it should take about five minutes of sanding for this step then set a timer and sand for five minutes. When it says keep it wet, keep. it. wet. I used a garden hose with the nozzle set to a heavy mist and sprayed it every 10-15 seconds. This rinses away the slurry and cleans the sandpaper so that it keeps cutting. If you don't keep it wet the sandpaper will clog up and you will just be wasting your time and energy rubbing your headlight. When you get to the last step, the UV blocker, don't skimp on it. There is lots in the kit to do two large headlights. Don't rub it on in a circular pattern. Use straight strokes from one edge to the other. Don't rub it on back and forth. Start from one side and wipe to the far side, pick the cloth up and then make your next pass slightly overlapping the first. Continue until you have completely covered the lens and then STOP! DO NOT go back over it and DO NOT TOUCH it. Let it dry four to six hours. Now enjoy the fruits of your labour. Your brand new-looking headlights for nowhere near the price of new headlights.

Total amateur senior but has worked well on a 20 year old care. Now to see how long it lasts Australians should note... in step 2, instructions use the word 'quarter' when dabbing stuff onto a cloth. For aussies it should read the size of a 10cent piece!

Excellent product for DIY. It works as it claims, need to be very careful when applying clear coat, do not over apply.

En mi caso además no es que estuvieran amarillentos los faros, más bien opacos y con arañazos y capas viejas de laca de pulidas anteriores por lo que tuve que utilizar lijas grado 4000 y 7000 (además de la lija grado 3000 que incluye) para un acabado más fino y el resultado me dejó sin palabras. Insisto mi caso era un poco extremo, así que si solo utilizas los insumos que incluye el kit obtendrás un resultado sorprendente. El mejor que he utilizado a la fecha, ampliamante recomendado.

Amazing results for 10 years old car. No more blinding other drivers. Some elbow grease required for upmost results