BETOOLL 50mm Crankshaft Crank Pulley Wrench Holder Tool Removal Holding Spanner kit Compatible with Honda and Acura Engines

Worked as it should and at a great price. Didn’t need the socket but nice it came with it. Couldn’t have done the job without it. Seems like good quality for occasional use. Fit nicely and held up with no issues.

We had to replace my daughter’s engine in her 2005 Honda Accord. This worked well and allowed us to get down to the timing belts and do a service on her replacement engine. Worked perfectly.

Worked great, cheapest option available and i dont see any reason to buy a more expensive one. Worked for my 2013 honda pilot.

Okay, so first does this socket work for getting the crank bolt off a honda odyssey van..Yes but does it fit well..No! I was able to use the socket with my 1/2in dewalt impact gun and back out the crank bolt. However, the socket size is too big for the bolt. It fits Sloppy on the bolt with lots of wiggle room almost as if it is a size up. This will eventually create a problem with constant use because it will round bolts and eventually wear the socket down. The harmonic holder was a nice feature for being able to hold it and use a torque wrench to torque to spec. I'm giving this tool an overall 4 stars because it did work but could use some improvement on actually being the correct size for that Honda bolt not some made up size.

Just what you need for Honda 4 cyl engine crankshaft removal and installation. The socket is heavy duty built not thin walled like a regular metric socket. Plenty of weight to it to withstand impact use.

I bought this to help with a water pump and timing belt change. This tool is a must have! It fit snug and did its job! The water pump Installed perfectly on my 03 Odyssey with 197k miles. I chose not to purchase the kit and save a hundred bucks because my pulleys and tensioner seemed to be in excellent shape. Replaced the timing belt as well, even though the old one seemed to be in good repair anyways. I tossed the gasket on the water pump and used the "Right Stuff" gasket maker instead. I also replaced plugs. Suggestions: -Buy THIS crank pulley tool (It will make your life easier and you won't risk damaging your engine). - Take out spark plugs when adjusting cams. - Buy thread lock for crankshaft pulley bolt - Buy thread anti-seize for plugs. - After belt install, turn crankshaft pulley "righty- tighty" two times around and ensure you still have TDC. - Use Walmart cheap Brake Cleaner to clean up area after disassembly. - Watch lots of videos on YouTube to understand lining up cams to TDC. ***CLEAN EGR PORTS in the intake manifold. I completed the water pump and timing belt job. I also replaced spark plugs since I had to remove them to turn the cams to TDC. The old NGK laser plugs were nasty too. I assumed after putting in new plugs, new pump, and new belt, this puppy would purr (The vehicle ran ok before I started this job. The only reason I was changing the water pump is because I noticed coolant on my A/C compressor while doing my last oil change). I fired up the can for the fist time and the idle seemed to be ok, but I could hear the all to common tap coming from the rear valve cover area. This is usually just the solinoid, but it did appear to be a little louder than usual. No check engine lights were on, and while I was driving the car around there were no signs of any problems. I thought the tapping was just the car trying to readjust to the new parts, oil, and plugs I installed. However, after driving about 50 miles, the idle got worse, and shortly after, my engine light and tcs light came on at the same time. The tapping was really loud now, and I was afraid I had damaged something in my cam shaft when adjusting timing. I pulled codes and had P0300, P0302, P305, P306, and P1399. Although the vehicle performance when driving was still good, I had no clue what happened. After reading several posts and watching videos, I decided to check and see if I had a bad coil or spark plug since plugs were loosely packed and out of package upon arrival from Amazon. I simply unplugged the coils to see which ones didn't effect the engine when unplugged. Of course the middle cylinders 2 and 5 were hard to tell because they are in the middle and don't really shake the engine as much as the end cylinders do(I bet many people misdiagnose this and commonly purchase two new coils and plugs which were not really the problem). It was hard for me to tell if the engine was missing or not on 2 and 5 because the idle was so bad in the first place. I even listened with a stethoscope, and heard weird metal clanking noises and tapping in the rear valve cover. I finally went to the next easiest check, and that was to unscrew and check the intake manifold cover. Super simple and took literally 2 minutes to pull off. I was SHOCKED at what I saw. I always use Chevron Gas, or have Techron additive available when I don't have a choice. I know this keeps my fuel system clean, but when I pulled the cover, it was a black carbon mess. My EGR ports were almost completely blocked. My engine was suffocating, and I had no idea. I spent an hour cleaning, scraping, vacuuming, and wiping carbon off the manifold. I put the cleaned cover and gasket back on, and the car sounds like it did when we first purchased it. I still need to do a valve adjustment at some point, but for now, I'm leaving it alone. I hope she is good for another 100k miles. I also switched to synthetic Mobile1 0w20 and Fram Synthetic Filter. I will try to get 6k before next oil change. I have always done the Fram HM and Valvoline HM non synthetic.

First off a warning. Make sure that the hole in the holding tool is large enough for the socket to fit inside of it or you're just wasting your time on the fake tools also sold on Amazon. The socket must rotate inside of the holding tool! This tool worked out very well and I was able to get the damper bolt to break loose. You need a breaker bar to hold the damper from turning with the tool, and most likely a three-quarter inch air gun with full air pressure to break the bolts loose. If you're doing this by hand, you will need a Long 3/4"breaker bar. And most importantly, half inch extensions to clear the fender will not work. 3/4" x 26" total will work, But I went with 1" x 18" plus 8" (26"total) and it popped right loose without all that extra torsional twist in the extensions. It worked really well, without all the frustration.

Works as it should..

Queda algo floja pero aguanto bien la presión

Excelente de buena calidad lo recomiendo ampliamente...

Worked well during a timing belt and water pump replacement on a pilot, much easier to torque the crank bolt with the proper holding tool!

Se ve de buena calidad y resistencia hay que usarlo para verificar que tal resiste

Excelente producto y muy útil para el quitar la polea del cigüeñal de mi Crv