Origin8 Torqlite Square Taper Bottom Bracket

Holds up under heavy stress and riders weight.

My mountain bike bottom bracket was clicking and popping and under load was no longer cranking as smooth as it was new many years ago. I borrowed the tools to pull a square taper cartidge from a friend to get the right size off the old cartridge and ordered this as a replacement. I chose the origin 8 over the original cartridge mainly based on weight. The origin 8 tops out at 240g for the largest size while my old cartridge was over 400g. Price wise there were slightly less expensive cartridges but not by much and for a cheap square taper this one appeared to be one of the lighter ones. To get any lighter it appeared to me you would need to spend over $100. To go to a external type would have cost even more as I would have to change out cranks and such. Square taper has been good for me so I went for what appeared to be best replacement for the budget minded.Installation was quite easy and should be no different than any other square taper cartridges. The cartridge cups came with pre-applied thread compound. Guessing it was an anti-seize vs thread lock. Happy it was pre-applied for me. My bike is pedaling smooth as new again. No real info I can offer and durability. I have only put about 30 miles on it with no issues.

I was forced to change transmission on my 3x8 road bike with Shimano Sora Hollowtech 2 crankset. It is1 year old. The issue is bottom bracket, it has a lot of play when pedaling. I did not find anything good for me with 3x crankset. I decided to have 1x and needs shortest bottom bracket 103 mm. And Origin8 Torqlite Square Taper Bottom Bracket was my best choice. I imediately ordered and installed it. There is sealed bearings inside. And my first ride was best ever. No play at all when pedaling. and no other intermittent noise/shifting issues. Thanks for Great product!

Bought this for a Roberts 1960 restoration. Initially, I just wanted to restore the bike to the best of my ability with as cheap of components as possible. After spending way too much on other components, my restoration budget got the best of me and I went with all original. The bike road very well on the 2-3 treks I took on her, but after determining it was compatible and a decent bb I took it out to prep for painting. That is when the quality of the piece finally reared its ugly face. Somehow the threads stripped coming out, which was a first in my case. I would have thought that perhaps the alignment was off going in, but the campy bb bought to replace this one fit perfectly. Perhaps I had a dud. Regardless, if looking for a decent bb that you don't plan on doing much work with post-install, this would be a great purchase.

Can’t go wrong with Origin8 components; always a quality product at a reasonable price.

Yes, its lighter than a Shimano UN55. But:- installation was a pain. The little flange in the black aluminum on the non-drive side was catching on the inner "nipple" of my plastic cable guide that mounts on the bottom of the BB shell on the frame. So I had to scoot that thing out to get this past, which meant I had to loosen my cables. The Shimano doesn't have a flange like that.- installation was a pain point 2: It was a struggle to thread into my frame. Yes I got the right size, yes my threads are in good shape. I cleaned up the threads with carb cleaner and slathered everything in grease - and i still had to very carefully screw it in with a breaker bar. Yes, I know how bad this sounds - I've been working on this kind of stuff a long time - i didn't crossthread it or anything, no crazy amount of force, but it was just a lllittle too tight. It seems to me they cut the threads to spec And Then electro-plated it in whatever gives them that gold tint.- installation was a pain point 3: Whereas the Shimanos fit perfectly flush on the non-drive side with zero adjustment, the non-drive side cup on this has no outer flange, so you can keep tightening it until it puts an axial load on the bearings. You have to get it just right and put your old lockring on it - just like a cup-and-cone. By the way mine didn't come with a lockring. Not sure if it was supposed to.- The spindle is flexible. Yeah, it seems like a pretty thick hunk of steel, but believe it or not, when i pedal hard i can definitely see my chainrings waving back and forth. I'm quite surprised - I didn't expect the hollow spindle to cause any issues, but it certainly does. Whatever performance you gain from it being a slightly lighter part, you're gonna loose to the lack of stiffness. The flexing also makes it harder to get the front derailleur dialed in, because sometimes it will rub when you pedal hard.- It moved my chain-line out more than i would have liked. Yes I bought the right size, but perhaps a little variability is to be expected when upgrading a 20-year old part. I can't really fault the part for this, as I've not put a shimano on this specific frame to compare. For reference I got the 68x116 - so if this is your size, I would recommend the 68x113 or maybe even the 110.5 if you're feeling lucky. I definitely have room for 1.5mm on both sides. Again, perhaps it was my old BB that was out of spec and not this one.Bottom line i'll keep it on this bike until I have some reason to take the crank apart again, but at that point I don't think I'll put it back on. Its just kind of a bummer to spend more on something that doesn't turn out as expected. If you've an urge to spend more on a bottom bracket for your old frame, skip this and upgrade to a modern form-factor for real gains in both stiffness and weight.

Works great

This was the only 115mm Euro taper bottom bracket I could find to replace the Chin Haur that came with my 2011 SE Draft single speed. I wish it was a bit cheaper, but it was easy to install and seems well made. It didn't solve all my drivetrain noise issues which disappointed me, but that is my fault for not diagnosing the problem correctly.