Crux SWRTY-61J Radio Replacement Accessories

This was for a JVC aftermarket stereo in a 2007 Toyota Camry with JBL. The connections worked properly, as they were supposed to according to the directions, and the steering wheel buttons all worked as well. The only issue we had was that the JBL system powers all of the speakers off of the amplifier, and you are only supposed use the front speaker wires of the radio wiring because the original radio only had 2 speaker wires. If you do this, you may have no rear speakers with the new radio, since the radio itself splits the sound in 4 direction - front left and right, rear left and right. To get past this wire both lefts together and both rights together. This will give you all 4 speakers, but either way you will no longer be able to use the fader function to adjust sound front to back. The fader not working with aftermarket stereo is even mentioned in the directions. Other than that, it works perfectly to install the stereo and power the amplifier and everything sounds great.

It worked perfectly, easy to follow instructions. Steering wheel buttons needs programming for it to function.

Install is like any other aftermarket radio the other aftermarket radio. This is better than the Metra because this Crux has built in SWC. I have a 2007 Camry with navigation and the JBL system. This plugged right in and retained the SWC and amp. Paired with an Atoto 6pf it’s a perfect pairing.

I chose the Crux Swrty-61J to upgrade my stereo with a Sony unit and retain the JBL speakers and amp in my Toyota SUV. I read the other reviews and don’t feel the need for the fade option for the rear speakers not pay an extra $50 for the PAC SWC. The instructions were pretty self-explanatory. It looks intimidating out of the box due to the extra harnesses so make sure to find the right harness for your car. Once I found out which one worked for my car, the rest of the install was just soldering the corresponding wires and installing it to my head unit and car. I had no issues and my steering control unit works without issue. Regarding the gain function dip switches, I set all three to off. By default all three are set to the on position. When I tried to test my Sony head unit after the install, I felt the volume was way too loud and created distortion. I don’t want to blow out my current speakers. Aside from that, I would recommend this unit to anyone that is looking to upgrade their head unit and retain the stock JBL speakers and amps. Update:7/20/22 I tried using my steering control buttons on my SUV and they stopped working after I updated my firmware on my Sony head unit. They worked after the initial install. I changed my review to reflect the stoppage of the steering control buttons.

I though this would work but after everything was hooked up the steering wheel controls didn't work. I ended up buying a competitors module instead. In my truck the shape of the wiring harness behind the stereo is different than the non premium stereo version. Mine was the premium stereo version except I bypassed the factory sub long ago. None of the wiring harnesses worked with my particular setup. The wiring pins didn't line up, even though the connectors matched. I ended up just cutting the wires on this and cannibalizing it so it would work. Just make sure you line up the pins from this and in the vehicle before you start crimping and soldering.

I purchased this interface to upgrade the head unit in my Tundra. I wanted to maintain all the factory steering wheel controls as well as the stock amp and sub location. This unit integrated my Pioneer touchscreen seamlessly! Installation was simple and my only negative would be the loss of fade control. I have two Tundras, an 05 and an 07. I plan on ordering another unit to use on my 05. Without this unit I would need a separate unit for the SWC, amp and head unit. Way to go CRUX!

I wanted to upgrade my 04 Solara stock radio to one with bluetooth and a backup camera, but the car has a JBL factory amp and I wanted to keep this install as simple as possible (especially including steering wheel controls). Crutchfield recommended this model to make that happen, but it was out of stock so I ordered it here instead. Well, for starters it only supports control over L+R, fading from front front to rear isn't an option as it just sends both front and back speakers the same signal. That's fine for a limitation, I did read that from the description here so I wasn't surprised, but it was just the first sign of a product that seems half baked. Next up, the steering wheel controls DID NOT WORK. I have an Atoto head unit, and none of the dip switch SWC settings worked. You have to set the buttons on the Atoto, but no matter what switch settings I used, I only got SOME of the buttons working and not others. Like, sometimes only vol + but not vol -, or a different setting gave me just mode and track down, but never all of them at once. I reached out to customer support and it took several tries to get a response, after which they gave me a different set of switch settings to try (not one from the manual) which still didn't work. In the end, I cut the SWC wires from the harness and fed them directly to SW1 and SW2 on the Atoto harness directly, and got them ALL to show up and set correctly! So basically, buying the model with SWC retention was a waste of extra money as it didn't even work. Then I had some ground loop noise I was trying to troubleshoot. To be fair, it could have been the radio, so I tried wiring it directly to speakers to see if the output from the radio had it... it did not. Another weird issue is that I noticed a faint hiss coming from the speakers EVEN WHEN THE RADIO WAS POWERED OFF. As in, I'm not playing anything and want the car to be dead silent, but the adapter still turned on the amp even if the head unit is off! It was more pronounced when I had ground loop noise, but now that I've mostly fixed that, there is still an obvious hum like there is power going to the amp and it is waiting for sound. This should power it off if my radio is off, but that is not happening. I reached out to Crux again, multiple times, explaining the problem and got no response. I reached out again and asked if I could just buy another wire harness in case there is something wonky about the one I have (the swc issue I later realized might have been one of the wires not communicating to the adapter, since connecting only sw1 or sw2 at a time made it act the way it did before with only half the buttons working at a time- but obviously my wire to the car was working as was the headunit because different settings switched around which buttons were active... so the fault must have been in the adapter or harness). No response. It was too late to return it so I tried troubleshooting on my own. I'm living with the faint hiss for now, when the car is on it isn't a big deal and usually I'm listening to something anyway so that's fine. The fade from front to back is fine because its a coupe and not like there's a lot of difference between the front and rear of the car. The SWC buttons are working because I bypassed the faulty operation of the Crux unit, so it's mostly fine now. But I feel like I overpaid for something that under delivered. I wish I had gone with a different interfacing adapter and/or bypassed my factory amp. This was supposed to make the installation EASY and it ended up causing me more grief instead. Also? Crux customer support has been terrible. When they did finally respond, it seemed like they didn't want to help because I didn't buy it from one of their authorized retailers and I wasn't a professional installer. Their website also went down for weeks in the middle and I feared they went out of business due to the pandemic. They have since responded so I know they are still around, but were not really helpful. The technical team at Atoto was worlds more helpful (they wanted it to work and were trying everything to see if the problem was on their side). It seems the problem was with Crux's adapter and their lack of support.

I see some people in the reviews saying that it didn't retain their steering wheel controls, that may be operator error because I installed it on mine car with a dual audio head unit and all of my steering wheel controls work perfectly. Great problem solving product, size makes it tricky getting all the wiring in the dash and a little pricey but works as intended.

Junk ...does not last long and conversion to jbl is poor..rear doors dont work just the highs in trunk

Quería dar ganancia a la recepción de la radio y tener sonido igual al sonido original con bajos y agudos claros. La instalación por el técnico fue excelente y mi objetivo fue alcanzado.

Pude cambiar el estereo de fábrica por uno de pantalla, aunque no se si decir que fue a mejor, pierdes el control del fade F-R, 2 canales y la entrada auxiliar de video de la parte trasera, se pierde el dvd del toldo y am no se sintoniza por como viene el cinector original, el amp esta en extremos, si se activa sube demasiado el volumen y si no, se escucha demasiado bajo, aunque es buena opcion se pierde mas de lo que se podria ganar al cambiar por uno mas nuevo.

Worked perfectly to retain the JBL amplifier, aux input port, and steering wheel controls when installing an aftermarket deck on 2012 4Runner, however neither camera harness included was the correct one to retain the factory back up cam. I had to cut off the RCA and 6V step-down converter and splice them into the corresponding wires on the vehicle harness and was able to retain the factory camera.

I went through two of these and both had the backup camera 6v harness wired backwards. I started to back up and the thing started smoking and filled the car with smoke, and I burned my hand. I didn't plug it in backwards, this is the only way the harness can connect. See the red to black and black to red. The rest of the harness is wired correctly, but this is a major issue and you should not use this portion.