MORSEN Grow Light, 2400W Full Spectrum LED Grow Lights with 2 Dimmer On Off Switch for Greenhouse Hydroponic Indoor Plants(10W ledsx240pcs)

Dec 2019, after Having lights for just a few months more than 1year I have sections of light out on 3 out of 4 lights. I have tried to contact morsen and have had no reply thus far. I have reduced my rating from 5 stars to one until my issue has been resolved.Morsen replied in a few days time after posting negative review and contacting customer support in their "grow light" website which is a different site than their regular led light site. After a few email exchanges and some diagnosis and confirmation pics they have sent me replacement parts and lights are functioning as they should again .I have been growing medicinal plants for several years. I mainly used to use hps lights as they are pretty standard for most indoor growers as the yeilds are so much better that any additional power consumption is easily covered. Also the cost of higher power led's has been too high on cost until recently to try them out. I saw these lights for the first time a few months ago and thought I would give them a try. I would put the equivalency based on yields of a 600hps. I use 2 - 2400w morsen led lights per 4x8ft tent with continuous air flowing in for cooling and fresh air.After 4 months of use I am enjoying the results of these lights. Everything is simpler, no lightbulbs to worry about changing, cooler temps and much lower electric bills. My yeilds are slightly less but everything about growing has become much less time and effort intensive.

I bought the Morsen 2400w reflector series (which is no longer offered) about 2yrs ago and used for 2 grows and about 3k hrs. Light was great! Bright, very sturdy, I was impressed! Not so much now. Lights burnt out on veg and bloom modes. Reached out to them via email and they didn't hesitate to send 4 new panels, 3 new fans, and 4 drivers! The box was badly damaged and protective lenses for the leds were broken. I installed them regardless. All 4 panels worked in veg, but only 2 on bloom. And now one of the veg panels has gone out. 😣 I spent about 350$ when I ordered this 2yrs ago and it had a 3yr 50k hrs+- warranty, and that's why I ordered it! The panels were shipped stacked on each other with only brown paper on top of them to protect them...boo. Each panel should have had bubble wrap in them. After disassembling and reassembling them and still having issues, I'm not happy. I thought i had hit the jackpot with this light...but no. Hopefully they continue to work with me, we'll see

UPDATE: I have dropped my rating from a 5 star to a 1 star. It has been less than 6 months and several LEDs have stopped working. This is unacceptable for any grow light. Being mid-experiment with blooming cucumbers which need as much intensity they can get....this is not cool.My previous review stated:The Morsen 2400watt LED Grow light gets a 5 star. It works well and is priced competitively.I've just concluded 3 months experimenting with the Morsen 2400w LED grow light. If you read any of my past reviews you will notice a consistent pattern, I am extremely critical on LED grow lights.I've been running numerous science experiments for the last 18 months or so. I have purchased almost every single "LED Grow Light" in the 300-600w range, all the 36w, 48w, and 60w "LED grow light bulbs", and about 34 of the 600-2000W LED panels. I use an Apogee Quantum Par meter (sq-520) (Love it) and a Hydrofarm Quantum Par Meter (which I think is terrible). The plants in the experiments are: Basil, Strawberries, Dill, Variants of Lettuce, Lavender, tissue culture of California Redwoods, Medicinal herbs (Indica and Sativa strain), tissue culture of peas and other vegetables. Nutrient delivery is computer controlled (GrowLink Environment Monitor, Growlink Nutrient Doser, Autogrow Intellidose systems with peristaltic pumps, separate Arduino monitoring system, and an Apollo environment monitor. I am triple/quadruple tracking most environmental variables for redundancy and data logging.Over the last 18 months I ran experiments in DWC hydroponics STERILE/CULTURED, DWC "Bennie", Aeroponics, Ebb and flow, ebb and drain, Kratky method, and full aquaponic systems.LED wattage/Power:Typically with LED grow lights the listed wattage of LED is meant to show what it equals if it was a HPS light bulb. The Morsen states 2400watts. Measured at the wall it pulls 445-452 watts with both switches turned on. To put this is perspective for those who know nothing about power or wattage....this draws as much power from the wall as a modern day (cheesy dell) desktop computer. Most gaming computers have 1000watt- 1500watt power supplies.Lab Measurements:For the Morsen 2400watt test I placed it in Lab 2 (6x6 (x7ft) sealed growing container, not tent, no reflective surfaces* until bloom). Using a PCE-P02 air quality and particle meter, there is less than 30u parts per million of (undesired) particulates at any given time within the sealed enclosure. A Titan Ares 4 provided controlled bursts of C02 every 40 minutes for 16 minutes with an average ambient c02 level of 830ppms. During the vegatative state (weeks 1-4) the plant was autofed by a Growlink Ec-1 Environmental controller, typically once every 6-7 days. During Bloom, the plant was fed every 2-3 days.The (single) plant was grown from mixing 3 tissue cultures of an Indica mix ("Tahoe OG, Alpine OG, Moxie Labs "Lucky No Slevin") (tissure culture viability started with 10 g of agar/L 30 g sucrose/L )All the science...is this solely applicable for medicinal herbs?No. But...How do you measure the potency or success of a strawberry or a bannana? Sure I might grow Costco sized strawberries, but what if they taste terrible? What if the strawberries grow large and taste great, but contained 60% less Vitamin C than a regular store bought strawberries? Still not success, correct? With botany and agricultural studies "success" is hard to scientifically justify. With the medicinal herb market (sorry but Amazon doesn't approve reviews with MJ mentioned) and high performance liquid chromatography testing (HLPC), there is an acceptable measurement of "success" provided in scientific results, the THC.At the earliest viable state (2-3 weeks) the seedling was transplanted to a Botanicare grow plug and placed into a 2 gallon pot with soil mixed with Hydroton clay balls (to ensure soil didn't settle and become packed (packed soil or dense soil hinders oxygen to roots, causing leaves to wilt and slower growth). This method only works well when you place a 120mm fan directly over the pot for the entire grow, the fan also prevents ANY fungus gnats from growing. I used the AC Infinity AXIAL 1238 120mm fan with a Titan fan controller, however I think the Titan fan controller is stupidly overpriced, this does the same exact thing and the Lighthouse Hydro fan controller here on Amazon does the same thing for $14.Another reviewer on Amazon already measured with the same Apogee sq 520, my measured results came out near identical :At 6" from the LED: 3980 μmol (center point of the LED)At 12" from the LED: 1319 μmol (center point of the LED)At 24" from the LED: 520 μmol (center point of the LED)At 36" from the LED: 251 μmol (center point of the LED)To provide a comparative perspective, medicinal seedlings thrive when you start them from seed with a minimum of 150µmol, preferably 300µmol+, teen (2 weeks into VEG or futher) medicinal herb plants from healthy strains are known to prefer a minimum of 500µmol+ .From over a hundred experiments I've documented that starting germination under 1800µmols and only increasing as the plant grows, has exhibited phenominal results. Attempting to transition a germinated seed or seedling from anywhere less than 900µmols to 1800µmols never seems to work well and tends to stress the plant.Most of the "good" commercial LED lights kick out around 1200-2300µmol (in the center) and the ones that do it continuously RELIABLY *and* run cool to the touch, typically cost anywhere from $900-4000. Hopefully lights like this Morsen, which delivered great results, on par with a $1600 light I own, will help drive those prices down by simply being competitively priced.You can use the following calculation to determine the hourly PAR. Substitute your actual instantaneous PAR measurement for the '55µmol’' below:Hourly PAR= (55µmol / m^2s) ( 60s / 1min) (60min / 1hr) (1 mol / 1 x 10^6µmol) = 0.36 mol / m^hourIn case anyone isn't tracking along, here are some definitions:Humans use Lumens. Don't measure a lights effectiveness by it's luminosity. For example: The FEIT 300watt LED $40 bulb is extremely bright and can light up a .25 acre backyard, it's marketed as "stadium lighting replacements" however it puts off a miserable 100-300µmol within 2" of the bulb and leans too heavy on the blue/white spectrum side. It doesn't work well at all at replacing a grow light.Plants use PAR, PAR stands for photo-synthetically active radiation (PAR). PAR is NOT a measurement or “metric” like feet, inches or kilos. Rather, it defines the type of light needed to support photosynthesis.The three factors anyone (even little ol granny growing Magnolias indoors) should care about when growing under artificial lighting is:PPF - Photosynthetic Photon Flux, PPF measures the total amount of PAR that is produced by a lighting system each second.PPFD - Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density (PPFD), measures the amount of PAR that actually arrives at the plant, or as a scientist might say: “the number of photosynthetically active photons that fall on a given surface each second”.Photon Efficiency....Photon Efficiency refers to how efficient a horticulture lighting system is at converting electrical energy into photons of PAR. Many horticulture lighting manufacturers use total electrical watts or watts per square foot as a metric to describe light intensity. However, these metrics really don’t tell you anything since watts are a measurement describing electrical input, not light output.Micromoles (µmol ) – Intensity of a light is measured over a fixed area to understand the ability of a light to cover an area with that intensity (coverage). Micromoles of photons per square meter per second (µmol/m2/s) measures the intensity by taking measurements in a consistent 4 x 4 grid, measures the coverage of that intensity–commonly known as PPFD per 4 x 4 grid. Rather than measuring light intensity by lumens per watt with a lux meter, growers should use a quantum PAR meter to measure the micromoles of photons per square meter per second (µmol/m2/s) at the canopy level. To best calculate PAR light intensity coverage using PAR mapping 4 x 4 grids, be sure and measure at various heights. Spot readings (PPF) metrics are misleading. Growers use PPFD per square meter to accurately measure intensity and coverage of that intensity.If you're like "whoa dood, I'm just trying to grow baby tomatoes for grams and you're going Bill Nye on me", I'm simply saying: This is a good light, it is a sound investment for a greenhouse or small grow area, and it is priced very competitively.The Morsen 2400watt LED runs warm but it isn't a deal breaker as it was on some other lights. Other lights in this same power range, increased ambient temps in the same growing container by up to 35 degrees. Independently the Morsen 2400w light increased the ambient temperature of the 6x6x7 growing container by 14 degrees. That is a lot, but this is also a sealed container, comparative to a home closet. If you were planning on installing this in a closet, I would highly recommend creating a temperature controlled exhaust port with a minimum of 300cfm. The fixture was never too hot to touch, a laser temp probes displays 108f on the hottest spot I can find... however my ambient temp is locked between 78-80f in this lab. I imagine most other people will not be controlling their ambient temps. The fixture has 6 fans on it, they are relatively quiet. Makes me think I should get a db meter, right?So how did the experiment end and how did the light perform? Very well. I've attached a screenshot of the laboratory HPLC results from SC Labs. (UPDATE: Amazon does not want me posting results or links to SC Labs), you can send me a message for the public laboratory results, which came back at 23% total THCSingle plant, topped once for ScrOG at flip to bloom. Total dry yield: 1.126 lbs , incredible for it's power draw.

lights were faulty but good customer service.light was replaced free of charge.

I originally bought 2 of the 2400 watt leds, one in almost a year has continued to work. I have had two of these that with less the 8 months use have blown. The first one which contained the daisy chain completely melted over half of the LEDs with less then 6 months use. The replacement for that light came via amazon. The replacement no longer contains the daisy chain connection. Less then 8 months 60+ leds are out on this replacement 2 quadrants. I contacted seller for warranty which when I purchased these for $359.99 it came with a 5 year warranty, they have stated they are willing to honor their warranty. So on one light I would give this 5 stars, the second/third light I give 2 stars based on performance, if longevity was there it would have been an easy 5 star review.