SJ@JXArcade Game USB Encoder Zero Delay 2 Player Gamepad Button Joystick Controller for Nintendo Switch PC PS3 Raspberry Pi MAME

Didn’t work with sanwa buttons, when I plugged in another encoder to test it, the wires shorted, ruining the other encoder

Por favor espero me pase un manual

Works great with switch, but I can't get to work with raspberry pi.

Yes, I used these controller encoder boards to make a 4-player arcade that would play roms off of RetroPie playing on a Raspberry Pie computer or a Nintendo Switch. I'd say now it works pretty well. I'll try to explain first how I had it set up and then I'll explain some difficulties.How I'm set up: I wired these encoders to buttons and joysticks that I also bought off Amazon. The encoders then have USB cables coming out of them. Out of the Raspberry Pie, I have two "1 male to 2 female" splitters. Out of my Nintendo Switch dock, I have a "1 male to 4 female" splitter. This makes it easy for the controllers to be easily detached and re-attached to whatever system I am using at the time. I took the time to color code the USB plugs so that I can easily tell which plug goes with which controller. Each controller button set-up has a joystick (has clickers on each direction so that it acts as a d-pad), x,y,a,b,l and r buttons, and an extra button, which I mapped to the CLE button so that I can change between the joystick reading for the analog stick or the d-pad (more on that below). I also have start and select buttons for each controller, and one button mapped to the MOCE (Mode or home) button on controller 1 in the middle of the arcade where all players can reach it.So here's how it worked out of the box (I updated the firmware later and I'll talk about that below):RetroPie: I had a hard time figuring out how randomly (it seemed at first) I would lose the joystick on the first controller. I would unplug the controller's USB it and plug it in again and it would be fine. After a while, I realized that it was any time I pushed the home (or MOCE) button that this would happen. I figured out that if I just pushed the home button again, it would be fine. Weird, but at least I could get it to work. I had the home button set up as my hotkey in RetroPie, so it's possible that I could have resolved this issue by assigning a different button to be the hotkey, but I wanted to be a hybrid system, and the home button is the menu button on the Switch, so I had to deal with it.Nintendo Switch: I think that this worked pretty well out of the box. Since I wired the joystick buttons to "up, down, left and right", it read the joystick to the d-pad, which made for a hilarious first battle in Smash Brothers. We all jumped and punched, but couldn't move as our characters taunted each-other! So we could not play smash brothers without the updated firmware. However there were lots of other games that double the d-pad and analogue stick (Mario Kart, Ultimate Chicken Horse, Towerfall all worked) but Smash did not. Another note about the Nintendo switch is that to set up the controllers on the Switch, you have to go into the controller settings and connect them all. I would have to go to the change controller order screen, then plug in the first controller and push the L and R buttons quickly before the LED on the controller board went out. If it didn't register, I'd have to unplug the USB and plug in again and again try to spam the L and R buttons before the LED light went out. Then continue for the rest of the controllers.After firmware update:RetroPie after update: After the firmware update, I could not figure out how to get a hotkey to work. I don't know why. Maybe if I mess with it more, I can figure out a work-around, but one thing for sure is that I could not get the MOCE (home button) to work as my hotkey. What I ended up figuring out is that I could unplug the first controller board and plug in another controller (I used a SNES style controller) and use its hotkey combo to get out of a game. Then I could hook the controller board back up and everything would be fine again. So it works great until you want to exit the game and then you can't exit. Like I said, I might be able to re-map the controller board so that a different button is the hotkey, but I haven't tried.Nintendo Switch after update: Works great. The MOCE button is the Switch's menu button and the CLE button toggles between reading the joystick as the analogue stick or the d-pad. You don't have to hold the button for 5 seconds like some people have said, you just click the button and it switches. This works great with Smash Brothers. This does not open up my entire switch library to working on the Arcade, however. I noticed that the joystick is pretty limited compared to an analogue stick. An analogue will allow you to move slowly or at any number of angles, whereas this will allow you to go left, right, up, down, and diagonally, and that's it. Games where angles and power matter (I had a mini golf game that was fairly impossible) do not work as well. Also, just a note, I have not tried to map or do anything requiring the right stick. It looks like you might be able to plug an analogue stick into one of the 5-pin slots, but I have not tried it. Plugging in the controllers to the Switch dock is about the same after the firmware update as before. I still need to plug each in on the change grip order menu on the Switch. Plug in USB and spam L and R quick before the LED light goes out. It's weird, but works.Overall impression: Very pleased. I did not know if it would be possible to have a RetroPie and Nintendo Switch hybrid arcade. It takes a bit of set-up, and every time you switch from one system to the other, it takes some unplugging and plugging, but it works!

Works as intended with Nintendo switch.