8K@60Hz 4K@120Hz HDMI 2.1 Splitter 1x2,48Gbps,Supports Soundbar,HDCP 2.2,HDCP 2.3 Bypass,Duplicate/Mirror,EDID,Copy,Downscale, HDR,Dolby Vision Atmos,8K HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out for Dual Monitors

I bought this because I have a new Epson LS12000 projector with HDMI 2.1 support, capable of 4k120hz 10-bit with HDR10+, but my AVR is only HDMI 2.0b. The computer I'm using with this setup had some issues with running the AVR off a separate display, and using ARC to pass audio bacj to AVR from the projector was limiting the supported audio modes. With this device, I can have a single output from the PC, and then split it to the projector for full video capabilities and the AVR for full audio capabilities (just sending a 1080p signal to AVR).Initially it was flawless. Just after a month though, I started getting display flickering. I unplugged it overnight and then it was stable for like another week or two. The intervals between flickering and needing rebooted keep getting shorter and shorter. I've owned it for almost 2 months and now it needs rebooted near daily, sometimes multiple times in a single day.In fairness, they do say to power it off when not in use. That's the annoying part, because there is no remote. The whole rest of the theater is remote controlled, except this box. The power connection is also a screw-in connector and the HDMI ports are pretty finicky and can easily be bumped to where they're unstable. So it's really annoying and impractical to be unplugging and replugging all the time. There isn't even a power button. Unfortunately the only alternative I'm aware of is a $600 HDfury device, which is not worth it to avoid replacing an AVR just to get support for HDMI 2.1. So for now I'm just dealing with it but fear that it will completely die soon or just become so unstable that it's completely unusable. Considering just adding a remote switch for the outlet that it's on. If your AVR has switched outlets, that would be ideal to just plug into those so it turns on/off automatically with the AVR. Mine unfortunately doesn't for some reason.update 2023-10-09: Shortly after my initial review, I did end up getting a remote-controlled outlet for this and began turning it off when not in use. Again, that was initially flawless but eventually became finicky after some months. Sometimes after starting everything up, the screen will begin flickering and artifacting quite a bit until I power cycle the splitter. Sometimes, I have to shut everything down and start it all back up again to get it to be totally stable for the the night, but so far it will at least be stable after messing with it. It seems somewhat impacted by the device startup order. What I've found is that the highest likelihood of stability for me is with the following startup order, pausing for about 1 minute in between each to ensure each device is fully booted: output devices > splitter > input device. In particular, if the PC comes on first, that has high likelihood of instability and sometimes won't even produce a display at all. The AVR as it's only being used for audio in this setup really doesn't seem to matter much; it's only the video stuff that seems finicky. Anyways, this is still the best option I have for the price, so I'm still dealing with it because it's worth it to utilize all the features of my system.

Works great with the PS5 as long as you set edid properly and disable HDR. When enabling HDR on the PS5 or using the EDID coppy feature the colors get scrambled (see image). It is really nice that it downscales the image to 1080p. It allows me to Play in 4k120hz and stream in 1080p60hz. My capture card can only recognize signals up to 4k60hz so this feature is an life saver. Overall I would say this is extremely serviceable and a great little solution until 4k120hz capture cards get released. The only way I wouldnt reccomend it is if you have a capture card that can recognize 4k120hz signals or the absense of HDR support for the PS5 is a dealbreaker. If they release a firmware update that supports HDR for the PS5 this would be an easy 5 star product.

I'm using this splitter to have my gaming PC drive two displays - a 50" Samsung QN90B in the bedroom, and a 75" Samsung Q90T in the living room. I want to be able to move between rooms without changing connections on my GPU or fiddling around with Windows 11 multi-monitor annoyances.4 stars instead of 5 because it was fiddly to get working and it's a fairly expensive piece of kit. That may be the fault of HDMI tech in general, but I still didn't expect to spend an afternoon troubleshooting this for the money. Had to fully power down everything and try different boot sequences between the TVs / PC / Splitter, as well as different points in the sequence to switch the TVs into "game mode", before I managed to get both TVs to accept a 4k120 Hz HDR/VRR signal, but I eventually got it working.In case it's ever of use to anyone else, my setup worked with the following order:Use the less capable TV (the Q90T) as "OUT1", the more capable TV (the QN90B) as "OUT2", with EDID set to "Copy" and OUT2 output at 4kShut everything downPower the splitterPower the two TVs, any orderPower the PCWait for signal on the Q90T (OUT1), switch it to "Game Mode" once there is signal and confirm 4k120 HDR/VRRIf no signal on QN90B (OUT2), manually toggle "Game Mode" setting to get signal. If this fails, go back to step 1 and repeat until success (I never had to attempt more than twice).Only other downside is that I can't make use of the 144 Hz refresh rate on my Samsung QN90B, but I'm OK with that; the difference between 120 HZ and 144 Hz is minor, and I didn't expect to be able to run two displays at different refresh rates off a splitter.--EDIT - Now 5 Stars!--I contacted support, and they promptly provided updated firmware which resolved all my issues getting both TVs to accept signal. I now have 4k 120 Hz VRR/HDR on both screens with zero hassles from this adapter. Great stuff!

I've been hoping for a product like this for a long time.I want to get the best possible signal from my Xbox Series X to both my TV and my A/V receiver. My receiver won't pass VRR to the TV and my TV won't pass anything better than Dolby Digital 5.1 to the receiver via regular ARC. (Also the TV puts in a 1s delay on DD signal passed via ARC, so it's pretty useless anyway.)After initial setup, this device worked like a charm. Source: Xbox Series X. Out1: Samsung 2019 Q70R TV Out2: 2021 Pioneer LX-505 receiver.All the EDID showed up as expected and I can get 4K60 with Freesync VRR on the TV. (That's the highest this TV supports.) Also 1440p@120Hz worked great. I'm also getting all the expected audio options for the TV: Atmos, DTS X, 7.1 PCM.It worked great for a couple of hours but then the picture started coming in an out and then finally dropped altogether. The device was fairly hot to the touch but not scorching.Trying it the next day, I get the video signal flashing in and out. Too bad. Returning.