ClosetMaid ShelfTrack Wire Closet Organizer System, Adjustable from 5 to 8 Ft., With Shelves, Clothes Rods, Shoe Shelf, Hardware, Durable Steel, White

We were looking for an economic way to optimize my daughter’s closet. She has the smallest room in the house which makes organizing key. Her closet is a standard 6 foot closet and we purchased the 5-8 foot system.It took us about 3 hours to get the system up with at least half of that time spent making sure that we were anchoring the main bars into studs. Once the main anchoring bars were up the rest went quickly and smoothly. We mimicked one of the 6 foot closet designs pretty much as drawn with the exception of cutting the hanging bar. We left it intact so we would have optimal hanging space. We did not need to order any extra parts and had one bracket that we didn’t use.As many others mentioned, the holes for the the screws going into drywall only definitely need to be bigger than the 3/8 in recommended. We used 1/2 in and even that was tight.So far, I would definitely recommend this system. Since we were able to tackle this project without requiring couples counseling after, we are contemplating tackling our other daughter’s closet!!

Easy to follow installation instruction. Fits a wide range with different configurations for closets.

I purchased 2 of these systems for each side of our main closet. Best advice to any self installers is to ensure you get the main track mounted on studs. I drilled a couple holes to ensure the screws were in the studs. Very flexible on how you want to set it up, and fairly easy to change when/if you want to arrange it differently.

This is my second time purchasing this system. In my experience, closet systems are unsightly and un-sturdy, pushing through the walls where the brackets are, bending, sagging, falling down completely, what have you. This system solves all of that with its clever design. The top rail is held on by attaching to as many studs as possible (my closet has 24" spaced studs so I had to drill new holes to accommodate, but it was easy enough to do), and where there aren't studs, you use toggle bolts. If you put a toggle bolt or screw in every hole on the rail (as well as any new ones you made), the attachment is very strong; just make sure you put the darn thing on the wall right-side up. You won't get your toggles back if you have to take it down to flip it over. I made that mistake the first time I installed one. Won't happen again. Also, they say to use a 3/8" bit for the toggles, but that's too small, and trying to force the toggles through that size hole will just damage the drywall and make the hole useless. I used a 1/2" bit instead, and I still had to drive them through with a few taps from a mallet, but this worked much better. Also, getting all the toggle bolts through the wall at the same time before you tighten everything down is a bit of a trick, but it's manageable. Once the top rail is up, you have some decisions to make, since the thing is completely customizable. Some of the suggested configurations require you to cut the shelves to size too, which can be done easily enough with a Dremel or a hack saw, or -easiest of all- bolt cutters if you've got them. Once you get everything laid out, you have to attach the standards to the wall, which is another bit of a chore, since you need to have them all level top to bottom, correctly spaced (which I did by installing the shelves onto them), have them stay in place while you mark out locations on the wall for fasteners. Then you have to remove the shelves, remove the standards, drill holes and install the fasteners at all the places you marked out (which it tells you to use a 1/4" bit for but that's actually a bit too large; go a size down, tap them in with a mallet, and they'll hold better), put the standards back up, screw them down, and finally re-install your shelves where you want them. Once it's all said and done, the system is very nice. The top rail being so secure holds all the standards up very well, and the standards themselves act as a buffer to hold the shelf brackets off the wall so they won't damage it. Since everything's hanging off of the top rail, if you know that's really secure, you can put a LOT of weight on the shelves without having to worry about it all coming crashing down, and honestly I think it's easier to put up than many other shelf systems out there that don't hold up as well. It is a bit cumbersome to put up, but once it's there, it's really good.

OK, so I ordered one of those full-wall murals and someone that I've loved DEARLY (my wife) for almost twenty years is... A Hater. Simple as that. A forest wall? Like yeah - 1980's Sears catalog cool. Whatevs - she also doesn't like Christmas lights under the bed or wrapped around the headboard. I'll never figure that one out either. So anyway I got this closet organizer today (Christmas break projects galore!) and put it up in a little under 2 hours start to finish (including the mural install and a razor blade in the closet with bad light). It's a really well thought out product - all hardware included for whatever your situation. The directions don't mention a level but you should have one to line everything up properly.The mural is obviously optional but this one covers up some serious holes from the crappy clothes rod contraption I took down.Now when I get dressed in the morning I can imagine I'm going to walk around that forest instead of reporting to my soulless beige cubicle and work on my carpal tunnel.

My closet space was 8 feet and 2 inches wide. If you have a narrower space, you will be cutting metal to make it fit or not using all the pieces available. That being said, if you put it up the way we did you will have a couple left over screws. We did not mount the smallest shelf as indicated for shoes so we also had those special brackets left over. It took us probably an hour and a half to set up. I'm pretty pleased with it. I will likely order another one for my other basement room, and possibly a smaller variation for another closet. I really do like how the hangers glide easily on the rods. Highly recommend mounting over studs instead of sheetrock, this was for a kids bedroom and I don't think that they swing off of it - but I wouldn't put it past them or any other kid! They are rough on everything...