Hoya77 mm Pro ND 1000 Filter

Review of Hoya ProND1000 Neutral density filter:- Hoya ProND1000 is a 10 stop filter. I measure 10.3 stops in the green channel- Hoya ProND1000 is *extremely* color-neutral: A very small red cast is measurable, but not visually obvious (more below).- No discernible Infra-Red leakage / IR pollution.- Typical, decent quality aluminium frame.- Good price for performance.Safety: This is NOT a filter for photographing the sun.==========================================- If you want to photograph the sun, use only a filter designed and certified for photographing the sun.- Solar filters have heavy IR and UV reduction, as well as high attenuation of visible light, to prevent damage to eyes or equipment.- Contact your local astronomy society, or university astronomy department for advice.Colour:======I've attached images of a ColorChecker chart, with:1) Hoya ProND1000 filter2) No filter3) SRB ND1000 filter- These were all taken with a fixed "UniWB" white balance, which gives all images a strong green cast (the point of this weird white balance is to make it easier to check RAW exposure).- The filtered images were taken at 6", f/4. The unfiltered image was taken at 1/200 ", f/4.- The loss of focus in the filtered images is down to my sloppy technique with an extending zoom lens, the short object distance to the colour chart (~0.6m), and the wide-ish aperture (f/4). The lack of sharpness should not be attributed to the filters.The Hoya ProND 1000 is very neutral. Under Halogen lighting, I measure a very small red cast: Red up by 1.5%; Blue down by 0.25% (relative to green). The measured cast varies a little with lighting. If you are worried about this level of color cast, you should also be worrying about the color casts introduced by changing lenses. These shifts were measured on Nikon D7200 using RAW - i.e. linear light - data extracted using RawDigger.In comparison, It's quite clear that the SRB ND1000 has a blue cast. On the Nikon D7200 I used, Blue is up by about +20%, Red is down by about 30%. But the color shifts are fairly even across the different patches, so white balancing, either by setting a custom WB in the camera with the filter attached, or by adjusting the color temperature in RAW processing. The SRB has just a little difficulty with the lime-green patch on the third row, which is (relative to other patches) shifted slightly to yellow.The colour shifts quoted were measured under halogen lighting. I get similar results under high-quality (CRI Ra 98; CQS 95) LED lighting [Philips ExpertColor 4000K].Construction:=============Decent aluminium construction. Brass, with a knurled ring for better grip would be ideal (Like Breakthrough Technology X4 filters).Sharpness & visual artefacts:=============================I have seen images ProND1000 images with halo artefacts perhaps related to reflections between sensor and filter. On Nikon D7200, I haven't been able to reproduce such artefacts: I've tried photographing lights, shining a torch at the filter out of frame.I've also seen reports of sharpness problems with the Hoya. But pixel-peeking with and without the filter shows *I*'m getting very sharp images, with no significant loss of detail, even inspecting images at 200%.I'm not aware of vignetting problems, except with Nikon 10-24 at 10mm at the extreme (<100 pixels) frame corners, which are down ~1/3 EV - seems like filter ring shading.I'm mostly using the Hoya with Nikon D7200 and Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 OS, at near 50mm and f/5-f/8.Usage:=====- Autofocus may - or may not - be possible with a 10-stop filter fitted to your camera, depending on your camera, and available light. Some experimentation with live-view autofocus, and, for DSLRs, with TTL phase-detect auto-focus, is required. TTL phase-detect auto-focus may work well, but the problem is it may be hard-to-impossible to see what you are focussing on, because of the dark viewfinder relative to your environment.- A typical technique is to focus the camera without the filter, either manually, or with autofocus, and then attach the filter. Some care is required, particularly with extending zoom lenses, not to upset focus. Plate filters in a filter holder are better in this respect. There is a small focus shift on adding a filter, but negligible except for macro photography: the focus point will shift away from the camera by roughly 1/3 of the thickness of the filter glass - typically less than 1mm.- Possible difficulties in focussing suggest the use of small (ish) apertures to ensure adequate sharpness: say f/11 (full-frame); f/8 (APS-C); f/5.6 (Four Thirds). Significantly smaller apertures (higher f-numbers) will cause a loss of sharpness due to diffraction.- On SLRs, use the viewfinder blanking plate to prevent stray light entering the camera via the viewfinder. With a 10-stop filter, not much stray light needs to enter the camera to ruin a photograph. If you've lost the one that came with your camera, inexpensive 3rd-party replacements are available for popular camera models. On some camera models, you may get away without the blanking plate. I have tried and failed to provoke my D7200 to misbehave when using a 10-stop filter - for example by shining a 1.5W single-LED torch into the viewfinder.- Fitting *any* filter increases the likelihood of ghosting and flaring: Use a lens hood or matte-box to shade the filter and lens from stray light.Alternatives:=============SRB ND1000: Moderate, correctable, blue cast; similar construction; half the price (roughly).Breakthrough Technology X4 Neutral Density 3.0: [I haven't tried this] Fairly neutral; low vignetting; Excellent construction; double the price (at least).

Used with the Nikon D800, Nikon 24-70/2.8 and Nikon 70-200/4 (with a step up ring) the Hoya Pro ND 1000 and Hoya Pro ND 64 filters work very well. They give sharp pictures with very good colour and no extra optical vignetting (ND filters from other brands do give optical vignetting because they consist of dark glass, while the Hoya Pro ND filters have a metal coating which gives an even light distribution).I measure the exposure and white balance with an UV filter on or without filter and then set exposure and white balance to manual (using WB presets) and compensate the exposure when the ND 1000 filter is mounted. The white balance needs a B4 compensation for this filter, so at least on my setup it gives a bit of warmth unless you correct it, but that is easily corrected in camera and the difference is consistent so that I can always use the same WB compensation (B4) after having measured the WB for a specific scene.I measure the exposure and white balance with an UV filter on or without filter and then set exposure and white balance to manual (using WB presets) and compensate the exposure when the ND 64 filter is mounted. The white balance consistently needs no compensation for this filter.Edit: I have noticed that in many cases AWB works fine with the Hoya Pro ND 1000 or Hoya Pro ND 64 filter mounted (also when mounted together). This means that it is usually enough to set the exposure manually while letting AWB set the WB.You can stack filters, which I do with the Hoya 77mm Pro ND 1000, Hoya 77mm Pro ND 64 and the B+W 702 77mm 25 Percent MRC Graduated Neutral Density filter. The same WB compensation is then achieved (i.e. the ND 1000 and ND 64 filters themselves are not affected with regards to WB, and so no additional compensation is needed as long as the other filters are neutral). I stack the ND 1000 and the ND 64 and if needed I stack the GND in front of the ND filter/s. Note that you do get mechanical vignetting from the stacking so that I can use 24 mm focal length with one filter, 28 mm with two filters and 35 mm with three filters with no visible vignetting from the filters.When it comes to cleaning, the Hoya Pro ND 1000 and Hoya Pro ND 64 are a bit more difficult to clean compared to the B+W MRC filters. It means that a microfiber cloth is normally the only thing you need, but if you put a finger print on the glass, you will need to use B+W filter cleaning solution to make it come off, which has not yet been the case for me with the B+W MRC filters.To sum it up the Hoya PRO ND filters are currently the best money can buy with excellent colour reproduction, without loss in sharpness and without vignetting. Highly recommended.

First ND filter that I ever bought and I'm glad I did. Gives lovely results and is cheaper than the 100x100mm square filters.PROS- Relatively good value for money- Good quality- Case that it comes in does a good job of protecting the filter and is nice and small.CONS- It is quite wide and although it can be used with other filters I have experienced some vignetting when stacking up.- Not great if you want to use it with lots of different lenses with different filter thread diametersAll in all I would recommend buying this if you are just starting out with long exposures and don't think you'll be using many other filters. If you think you are going to be using ND grads and polarisers I would consider looking at the likes of NiSi's or Formatt Hi-Techs square filter systems.

Great filter and worth every penny. Unlike other 10 stop neutral density filters, this one does not leave a colour cast. Experienced hands will know this but for those who are trying this for the first time, you will need an exposure chart to work out how long you need to open the shutter for. You will need to take a reading with your camera's meter and then reference the chart which tells you how long to expose it for. You then set this up on your camera using the manual settings option and hey presto! Some experimentation may be necessary to get it just right for your particular camera but as I have said, it produces great results.

Muito bem embalado, em perfeitas condições

Reasonable price and fast delivery! I mean super fast!!! Keep up the good service.

One of the best (and affordable) ND1000 Filters in market

This is FANTASTIC glass!!! I purchased it for use with my Nikon f2.8 lens. Wow. The glass is just superior. Period. Beautiful optics, no flaring or introduced chromatic aberrations. And the resulting image is sharp as a tack. I actually use the Lee “Big Stoppwr” app on my iPhone to calculate the exposure time, and even though it’s meant for Lee filters, exposure times were almost spot on. I love the fact that the glass is durable. Also, the ring is metal so is durable as well - ruggedly built and the quality is certainly professional quality. It’s on the spendy side.. but if you have a lens with good glass, why ruin it with a cheap filter. Worth every penny!Truly the only downside is that it’s a screw in ND filter so you have to be very careful not to move the camera after composing, but honestly I can’t complain as that’s more due to the fact I have large hands. With landscape photography. I absolutely love the filter and it will be used for years to come!

About this product i m not pleased..Amazon is excellent...i m a amazon customer during last 2 years..but about this product Hoya Pro ND 1000 Filter i m not happy...the product in the box is not like the describtion.