Granville Genuine 1 X Petro Patch Putty 50g Multi Purpose Metal Repair Leaks Car Sealant - Part Number 455

filled my petrol leak

This is great stuff! I had a leak in my old classic motorcycle's petrol tank and was thinking I'd have to spend hundreds getting it professionally welded and treated. Then I discovered this Petro stuff. It's a two part epoxy which, when mixed to a uniform colour, sets rock hard. Following the clear instructions, it was really easy to work with and filled the hole perfectly. Once fully cured it sanded to a super smooth surface which I was then able to prime and paint. I've been running the bike for some time now and there is no sign of any leak at all.This product saved me hundreds of pounds and I highly recommend it to anyone for an efficient and good value solution to leaking petrol tanks or similar.

And it works well, it's just a shame about the rest of the car

Didn't expect much out of this as I've used these products before to little success. However it successfully patched a kubota diesel powered generator radiator which had a pinhole in it and it's still holding and not leaking like a year later.

A fantastic product and excellent customer service from Granville.My old Granville petro patch repair had lasted 5 years and was on the underside of my motorcycle petrol tank. It had prevented a petrol leak from 2 pinhead holes 1.5 cm apart from each other. As Granville has now made a newer version of the product, I thought I had better give them a call to find out if my old unopened jar of Petro Patch Putty was still good to use. Not only did I find out that it had a shelf life of 2 years and had therefore expired, but I learn’t some very useful tips from them as well:1. The repair area needs to be rough in order to provide a 'Key' for the putty to be able to stick to the surface properly. As my petrol tank is smooth steel, I used Wet & Dry Grade 120 sand paper. Using it dry, It was very good at scratching the tank area to be repaired and only a small amount of the sheet was cut off and used. The area should then be made as clean as possible.2. It's best to use a small amount of putty as 3mm - 5mm thickness is all that's necessary to cover the repair. I cut off a 1/4 of the block and kneaded it in my hands with rubber gloves on. The putty was previously warmed to room temperature for about 6 hours and 'likes' heat. Being winter, I made the repair indoors. It became more pliable the more I kneaded it. After about 3 minutes of vigorous kneading, it was very pliable and I then rolled it into a ball which I pressed onto the petrol tank repair area. I pressed it hard to make sure some of the putty would go into the holes and kept on pressing it in various places to flatten it out into a circle. I also tapered the edges to make them as flat as possible, as this helps prevent the putty from peeling off, such as if it gets knocked or attack from prolonged weather exposure. After about 3-4 minutes of the putty being pressed onto the tank, it had gone hard and was no longer pliable and was impossible to work with. However, I had finished the repair by this time. The circular patch ended up 4.5-5 cm in diameter and was around 3 mm thick. I was advised a thickness of 2-5 mm and to have the patch area not too large, as it was unnecessary.3. After 24 hours at room temperature, the putty had cured and was ready for the repair area to be painted. Although it can be sanded (even drilled), I chose not to sand it, as I thought the slightly rough surface of the putty might be a better surface for the paint to stick to.I hope this description helps people and my repair lasts at least another 5 years!

I had a leaking weld on a classic bike petrol tank. The first attempt failed probably beause I was applying it to a painted surface. Second time around I used a Dremmel type tool to grind off the paint annd get it perfectly clean and it has worked.

Ok so I was probably just as dubious as you are if you’re reading my review. I had a fuel leak from a seam in the tank of my classic car. I am/was intending to pull the tank and get it repaired properly. The tank is in the cabin of my car so fumes, smell, not great. I decided I’d give this a shot as I didn’t want to lose weeks of use in what is already a short summer. I drained the tank first as although the instructions say you can make the repairs “wet” I figure you have more chance of success dry. The putty comes in a roll, you simply cut off a slice the amount you need. Kneed it all together and it’s ready to go. Beforehand I’d cleaned the leaking area with a wire brush and a little sandpaper then a wipe with some thinners. Put on the putty, I’d made far too much. Quite difficult to get it to stick to the metal, prefers to stick to your hands. Keep at it though and it will stick. Left it to dry all day, says 24 hours for full hardness. I didn’t wait that long. Refilled the tank, jobs a goodun 👍 I’m not going to bother to pull the tank now, it’s that good. If it goes eventually I’ll think again. Good stuff and way easier than removing your tank etc

Fuel line leak on a 2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser. Didn't work.