Leak Saver Direct Inject UV - Refrigerant Leak Sealer with Added UV Dye to Detect Large Leaks - for AC, Refrigeration, and Automotive Systems Up to 5 Tons - Compatible with All Refrigerants

Worked perfectly. Saved me thousands.

It worked just as advertised

Two years ago my 19 year old Lennox a/c would not turn on. Service technician had to add 6+ lbs of r410a refrigerant. We discussed getting a new system. Two months later it was not cooling as well and required another 3 lbs. $1,300 for service calls but I got through the summer.Over the winter my furnace died so a few months later I was not ready to spend another 10k for new a/c system.As a DIY guy I educated myself with YouTube videos.I bought this sealer and charged the system myself.Had a very respectable 20 degree delta T which it maintained all summer.This spring we had a couple of 80 degree days with really cool nights so a/c wasn’t needed but I decided to check the system. Hoped for the best but expected to be disappointed.I hooked up my gauges and was pleasantly surprised to find everything was good.I am very pleased and impressed.Thank you for keeping me cool and buying me some time.

Why did you pick this product vs others?:It had good reviews, so I figured it was worth a try.It's not hard to get it into the A/C system. Best way is to valve off the high side output of the compressor, wait until the suction side pressure is down to like 5 or 10 psi, then attach the tube of stuff and push it in with the tank of gas. It only takes a few seconds. Once in, close the valve on the gauges, open the high side valve back up, allow the system to stabilize, then finish charging. I can't say whether it worked or not, that will take a couple of months to see if the system is still losing refrigerant.

I tried this on two mini splits that had slow leaks before I found Nylog. The first seems okay.The second one must have had bad product. It was a 2 year old system that was a little low. I shot in this leak saver and it was very slow going in and made a farting sound. Much different than the first one I used. The gas was very slow going in. Unit ran for about a half hour and the compressor started making a loud banging sound every few minutes. The sound kept getting worse. By the next morning it was making a grinding sound and was working poorly. I know when you disconnect service hoses you will get some splash as found on the first unit with UV. The second unit that had the problem showed small bits of solid yellow under UV. Not splash. I disassembled the system and shined UV in the lines. I got NO UV indication in the lines. That means the Dye/ leak saver must have been solid upon install. If it was liquid it should have been distributed through the whole system after a few hours running.The unit is trashed and I had to buy a replacement so now I am out the 30 bucks spent on this product, 600 for a new unit and some expensive R410A. Plus labor and parts to fix the wall. I figure good luck getting anything back from leak saver and am not going to waste my time.STAY AWAY FROM THIS PRODUCT!!!!!

I used it on my 14 year old R-22 heat-pump system that had a very small leak and needed to be charged (added some R-22 gas) every 2-3 years. HVAC guys make more money to charge me to add gas instead of going to the root of the problem. I decided to become DIYer. Got myself gauge manifold and small tank with R-22. Followed the instructions and injected it into the system + added about 2LB of R-22 (as it was low again) and ran it in AC mode. 1h later got my UV light out and started looking for the dye at the furnace first. Immediately I saw some dye at the vapor line (large pipe) where brazing was done on the pipe joint right next to the furnace. I wiped it off and let it be for about 30min. Came back to see if more dye came out but it did not. Used gas detector sniffer and it did not detect anything. Came back a week later and still no dye or gas detection at that poorly brazed joint and system still stayed fully charged. The bottom line is: It DID work with detection and SEALING the leak in my small leak case!!!

I'd been trying to locate a small Freon leak with soap sprays, oil residue searches, & Freon sniffers on the 7-year old split unit heat pump in my shop. It would run for 4 to 5 months of cooling & heating, then suddenly shut down with low pressure indicated. It tended to run longer cooling than when heating. I was leary of stop-leak products in general because of bad experiences in car systems; the stuff plugged up everything (like thermostats) as well as the intended target. The R-410A systems run at very high pressures compared to old R-22 systems so I expected to find a fitting not quite tight enough to hold the refrigerant. No luck. I viewed the clear tubing holding the stop leak & UV dye with suspicion--didn't look strong enough to hold the high pressure. The connectors fit perfectly (I already had the adapter on the low-pressure line needed to connect the low-pressure hose); they were just like an extension of the charging hose. I decided to do the injection & recharge in one go. I set up liquid injection into the low-pressure line to make sure the contents were diluted promptly. When I opened the tank charging valve the yellow fluid in the clear tubing vanished immediately followed by boiling R-410A. I watched while the scales moved smoothly up to the 68.8 oz charging spec with the system running on cooling. Everything worked fine for about an hour then the system shut down. Turned out there was more residual R-410A than I expected & the system stopped (high pressure cutoff) when the fluid temperature came up to the 100 deg F outside temperature. I decided to let the system pressure equalize--give the leak a chance to expel some of the stop leak fluid. Air & moisture was suppose to cause it to harden & plug the leak. Sure enough, the next day the AC came on & the air coming out of the evaporator was a chilly 50 deg F. It has worked great both as a heat pump & AC since then. I haven't tried to located my UV light to see if any dye escaped. I expect that will be easier to find if significant R-410A escapes in a few months. Follow the instructions; I recommend this for small leaks--don't waste R-410A (or any other refrigerants) trying to plug large leaks. The dye-only version is probably your best approach in that case.