Type B F6T5/D LED Tube Light, 9-Inch, Daylight 6000K, 110/120V AC | Rotatable, 4W, Double-End Powered, Frosted Cover, Not-a-Plug-and-Play

Unlike Timmy30, I did not plug these tubes directly in to the lantern circuitry. I suppose you can try it if you wish. The project was a good deal more involved than I had expected. The instructions that came with my LEDs insisted that the ballast be bypassed. To do this, open up the unit and gently heat the shaft of the on/off knob to soften the adhesive so that you don't have to horse/pry it off. (I did not know to do this.) The on/off switch is integrated into the circuit board. I stripped the circuit board entirely, except for the diode at the + connection. After this, I cut the traces in 3 spots and soldered in several jumpers. If you're game for this kind of stuff, you can figure it out in less than half an hour. As Timmy30 said, you'll also have to enlarge the holes for the LED tubes. I did not go to 3/4" because it would have destroyed too much real estate for my liking. I went to 11/16", then enlarged further with a dremel sanding cylinder. Yeah, you can melt it if careless . . . . With a little care, you'll have a working LED lantern with a hi/lo switch.

Nice product, used these to replace burnt out lights in my wife’s make up mirror. The crappy Chinese ballast in her name brand mirror burnt out. So rather than make more waste I removed the ballast and old lights then installed these bulbs. It’s now obnoxiously bright, but I should have bought a lower brightness, that’s on me. Convenient that these can be wired with direct line voltage. Would definitely use these in other applications.

This bulb didn't work for me but that probably is due to where I wanted to use it. I wanted to use it in a battery powered lamp but the lamp doesn't put out enough voltage to really light up the bulb. As a test, I applied a full 120 VAC to the bulb and it really lit up. So, if you're going to apply 120 VAC to the bulb, it will light up just fine. However, be aware that the bulb does have two physical concerns that should be considered. First, the end caps are noticeably larger in diameter than the main tube. Second, the bulb does not emit light from over half of the tube at all which explains the "rotatable" feature so that the bulb can be rotated so light emits from the "front" half of the bulb. In my case the larger diameter end caps were not an issue. However, because my lamp has a clear cover over at least 7/8ths of the bulb's circumference, so even if the bulb would have worked on the lamp's lower voltage, the lack of light output from the back and sides of the bulb would have been a very serious issue. So, if your installation has enough clearance so the larger end caps aren't an issue and/or if you don't mind light coming from less than half of the tube's circumference, this bulb might work for you. However, if the larger end caps might create an issue and/or you need (want?) light coming from all around the tube, look elsewhere.

I reengineered my Coleman lantern to use these. It was wasn't as easy as I had originally hoped. It needs the circuit on the original board disabled. I cut the paths on the board to the light terminals. I replaced the board functions with new 2 pole switch ( Twidec/5Pcs 12V Round Rocker Switch ON/Off/ON) and a diode (BOJACK 1N5349B 5W 12V Power Zener Diodes 1N5349 5 Watt 12 Volt Axial Diodes T-18). The bulbs are also a little bigger diameter. So the case needs to be drilled out to 3/4". And the circuit board need a hole cut in it for the switch to fit.

My husband completely understood the work required to change this fixture from fluorescent to LED. I rated it low on installation due to the work and time involved. This may not be the case for everyone. He had to remove the ballast on the fixture and purchase a new switch. It was rewired using existing wires. Although this item is costly and time-consuming; getting brighter task lighting is well worth it. The bulbs provided daylight brightness!

I learned that they make an LED starter that allows you use it without the need to rewire. I have a difficult to get to fixture that I do not want to take out of the cabinet. With the LED starter, it fires up fine. I was hoping to eliminate the buzz that the fluorescent lamp has. This noticeably better but still has a little buzz. The lamp and starter put me out 20 bucks

These work great in an old magnifier lamp. I have had to replace these twice due to voltage spikes on my incoming power. Once when a truck hit a nearby power pole and the wires arced together and once during a high wind event which caused the wires to hit together. No fault of the F6T5/D LED Tube Light If you tend to leave these powered on most of the time, connect your lamp to a good surge suppressor. Great tubes!

It works of one set of prongs so, it will light up when not secure in a four receptical sockets.