Repair Kit, Hanns-G HG281D Main Board, LCD Monitor, Capacitors, Not The Entire Board

Let me begin to tell you that I'm a noobie at soldering. The only thing I have ever solder was little toys that had a wire broken off. Never on a IC board.The direction on the website that was included with the kit was easy to follow. The direction is sort of gear towards people who is a little more advance than me, but never the less, I got it working.The kit came with 20 something capacitors. The video online said that you can see which capacitor is broken by the leakage on top of it. In my case, there was no indication.This kit has 'almost' everything that you need. I would have like a little more solder since I'm a noob and I wasted solder trying to remove some of the caps.The key is to remove the caps one side at a time. Don't worry about breaking them since you're not saving it. Use a terry cloth to hold the cap on one side and apply slight pressure on just the side you're heating up. Pry away and one the solder heats up, it pops right out.The problem is, there is solder in the hole now and its difficult to get rid of it. The online tutorial said to apply more solder to the hole and use the copper wire to soak up the excessive solder, but after about 1/2 way, you quickly realize that you won't have enough solder to do all 20 caps. It would be nice if they gave you double the amount of solder or a blower to blow out the solder. Have a thumb tack and a pile of unwind paperclips. It will help you a bit taking out the solder out of the holes.At the end of 20+ caps, I feel that I have advanced from noob to kind of noob. I'm much more comfortable replacing caps now.Good luck!

I've been a "depot" level, component level repair tech for over 40 years. With the advancement of technology we have evolved to an era where it often can cost more to repair an electronic device than it costs to buy a new one. Most everything in the industry today is designed for board level replacement, from consumer electronics to super computers to aerospace. It is unfortunate however that along with the simplicity and speed of replacing a board comes the cost. For most consumers this pretty much sucks. Manufacturers just don't make available replacement boards for consumer products and if they do, you need to decide whether to invest in the repair or pay half as much again and just get something new.I remember when there where electronics supply stores, even RS carried lots of components. You could buy schematics and a thing called a "theory of operation" that helped you understand what it was supposed to do when it worked.Bench repair of electronic devices is a skill just like being a mechanic or even a doctor but, many repairs are simple enough that many average folks can do the job with the minimal required tools. Most anybody can stitch up a small cut if they have a suture kit. You don't need to be a certified mechanic to replace rear shocks on most cars. Just a point.So, when a TV or monitor stops working and you have and adventurous spirit, a steady hand and the desire to keep as much cash in you your pocket for beer for the weekend, there is a company called LCDalternatives who just may have a component pack that will revive it. Solid state devices like transistors and chips can fail, sure but the most common culprit is going to be the electrolytic capacitors. Trust me there is a reason behind that... well, a couple. Anyway, this company has identified the most common reason for failures in many common and popular devices and have put together repair kits for the average Joe to allow them the chance to save a bundle of cash by DIY.I just replaced all the caps on the control board of my computer monitor that I've had for about 4 years. I was provided some solder, some solder wick and a alcho pad along with all the caps I needed for the job. The caps where more heavy duty (better quality) than the ones they replace so they should not be the cause of the next failure hopefully years down the road. I went to work changing the components and when I was done I realized I had a cap of the wrong value in the wrong place... but which one???I emailed the company late in the day and early the next morning I received a reply with nice colored and labeled diagrams of my board and I was able to immediately find my mistake and fix it. Monitor is working great now.I'd like to say thanks to LCDalternatives for the service they provide and the kits that they make available to those who wish to DIY and save their hard earned cash.

My spare HG281D was having an issue where it would start on for a short time, but quickly would start flickering the image and then cut out. You'd was on VGA. HDMI would no longer work at this point. The 2 caps on the board that were causing this are C80 and C83. Both 15V 100uf. This kit provided 16V 100uf, which are safe to use as replacements. After replacing those 2, it works flawlessly again. Over VGA or HDMI. I'm taking off a star since it gives you maybe 2 inches of solder. This is enough for about 2 caps. Luckily I had more, but it seems like they're being stingy with the solder

After 7 years of use, my Hanns-G-HG281D 28-inch computer monitor screen blacks out intermittently (otherwise its picture is fine and Windows plug-n-play continues to detect the monitor correctly; all these symptoms tell me that the main board is fine, the display panel is fine and the back-lighting LEDs are fine; hence it must be the power to the back-lighting LEDs). I bought the Repair Kit, Hanns-G HG281D Power Supply Board, LCD Monitor, Capacitors; plus this kit just in case (so I would not have to wait for parts). The other (Power Supply board) kit works perfectly, the 28-inch monitor works again, bright and sharp just as new (and hopefully lasting another 7 years); so, I did not need this kit after all; but just in case its main board goes bad in the future, I now have the capacitors for repairing.

No major issues replacing the capacitors (it helps to have some experience soldering). I took copious photos as disassembled the monitor. I took copious photos of the video board as well as diagramming it before I started desoldering the capacitors. I have an ancient manual desoldering pump, so I just removed the caps and then used the desoldering pump on one side and the iron on the other to heat and suck out the solder from the holes. Before snipping the wires after soldering the new capacitors in, I checked my resoldering with a ohmmeter. I verified that I hadn't created solder bridges by checking the resistance across the capacitors (no issues, but if I had created a bridge it would have dropped to near zero). Yay!