Kenwood KFC-P710PS 560W Max (160W RMS) 6.5" Performance Series 2-Way Component Car Speakers

This is the 2nd component system I have purchased. The first was the Pyle PLG6C 6.5-Inch 400-Watt 2-Way Custom Component System and I was very happy with that purchase. The thing is, this installation required a woofer that was not quite as deep. The Kenwood specifications showed the woofer would fit just barley in the rear pillars of my car and for a few extra $$ I thought I would give them a try.When I got the speakers I was a bit surprised. Unlike the Pyle, ths Kenwood uses a simple inline bipolar electrolytic capacitor for the crossover. Pyle has a actually 2nd order crossover with a coil for the woofer. Whoops I'm getting technical, let me explain:Crossovers take the signal and send only the bass info to the woofer and the high end signals to the tweeter. Without the crossover the woofer is left to reproduce high end material that it is not designed to reproduce and the tweeter will get all that unwanted bass signal that will damage the tweeter. By using only a capacitor as a crossover the rate or reduction of signal to the tweeter is only 3db peroctive and the woofer is still getting that high end info. While that will not damage the woofer, it will be trying to reproduce that high end while vibrating from the bass. It will can make the high end sound kind of garbled.The thing is, the Kenwood speakers sound really good. The bass seems pretty deep and the high end is crisp and clear without that normal car stereo shimmer. I will say that I found myself playing with the parametric EQ quite a bit to get the low end to sound good to my ear, but the speakers responded well.One negative, is the metal part of the grill pops off easily. I put a little but of 3M strip caulk in there to hold them in place. Problem solved!Summary: Even with the wimpy crossover, they play nice and loud without the need for an external amp, responds well to EQ boost without breaking up, very nice high end.If you have limited depth, these are a great choice and for about $40 they are a GREAT DEAL!

I purchased 2 sets of this component speaker system to replace the door speakers in my 2002 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (non-Bose system). The Tahoe has never sounded better!I ended up replacing every speaker in the Tahoe except the two rear pillar tweeters. To my surprise all the factory door speakers and the factory sub were blown. I think the factory OEM el cheapo speakers just deteriorated over time and there was cone separation on all of them. I replaced all the door speakers with Kenwood Kfc-P709Ps 6.5-Inch Performance Series Component Speaker System and replaced the factory sub with Kicker 10cvt8-2 Shallow 8" Subwoofer 2-ohm 400 Watts.[FRONT DOORS]The front door had both factory woofers and tweeters so I used the existing holes to mount each. I had to drill new mounting screw holes in the door to hold the woofers as the factory speakers used a plastic retention clip that was permanently affixed to the OEM woofers. I used this wiring adapter Scosche SHGM03B 1985 and Up GM Universal Speaker Harness to connect the woofers to the factory wiring harness. The factory tweeters were mounted in a diamond shape plastic mount so I used a hole saw and drilled out a hole in the diamond plastic mount where the original tweeters were positioned and dropped in the new Kenwood tweeters. I did not use the factory tweeter wires off the wiring harness, but rather used the included Kenwood passive crossover which connect directly to the Kenwood woofers.[REAR DOORS]The front door had factory woofers but no tweeters. No drilling was required to mount the new Kenwood woofers. The factory mounted woofers were mounted with screws and the hole pattern matched up perfectly. Since there were no factory tweeters, I used a hole saw to drill a hole in the door panels and mounted the new Kenwood tweeters directly in the door panel. There was plenty of room under the speaker grille to add the tweeters. I used this wiring adapter Scosche SHGM03B 1985 and Up GM Universal Speaker Harness to connect the Kenwood woofers to the factory wiring harness and connected the Kenwood tweeters using the included Kenwood passive crossover which connect directly to the Kenwood woofers.[SUB]Based on some of the reviews here I thought that the sub would be a near drop in replacement. Wrong! Modification to the factory enclosure is required to fit the new sub into the enclosure box. Basically the sub enclosure has a recessed hole where the factory OEM sub drops into place. The new Kicker sub has a plastic ring around the speaker that makes the diameter slightly larger and prevents this sub from dropping into place. I started by using a Dremel tool to try shave off enough around the outer ring of the enclosure .. what a waste of time. I ended up scratching up the enclosure surface (not a big deal since it is not visible) and getting burned with molten plastic shavings while trying to use the Dremel :-) I abandoned the Dremel tool and decided to bring out the big guns -- a router (Bosch 1617EVSPK 12 Amp 2-1/4-Horsepower Plunge and Fixed Base Variable Speed Router Kit with 1/4-Inch and 1/2-Inch Collets) with a straight bit. With the router I could set the depth of the cut with accurate precision and ensure that I would not cut too deep. If I were doing this professionally I would have built a jig to ensure a perfect clean circular cut, but since I was just doing this for my personal vehicle and I did not care that the cut was less than perfect, I decided to free hand route it. I have attached a picture of the mounted sub in the enclosure on the Kicker sub product page. I reused the existing sub wiring by cutting off the wiring connectors and stripping back the wire insulation about half an inch and then tinned the stranded wire with solder. I then inserted the tinned wire ends to the Kicker spring retention connectors. Positive to positive and negative to negative :-)[FACTORY AMP/CROSSOVER BYPASS]OK, after doing all the work and replacing all the factory components, I learned that there is one more hidden gem in the Tahoe. The Tahoe included a factory amplifier and crossover behind the glove box. This factory amp includes a crossover that filters out the bass from the door speakers. In my case, I wanted the new Kenwood door speakers to provide more low end sound since they are capable of it. There is an adapter you can build that plugs in between the factory wiring harness and the factory amplifier that can bypass this crossover and send the full audio frequency range from the head unit to the door speakers. If you are interested in this adapter, please visit my blog site for the article. Just visit my Amazon profile to get the website address.******************************PROJECT PARTS LIST******************************SPEAKER PARTS:-----------------------1 @ Kicker 10cvt8-2 Shallow 8" Subwoofer 2-ohm 400 Watts2 @ Kenwood Kfc-P709Ps 6.5-Inch Performance Series Component Speaker System2 @ Scosche SHGM03B 1985 and Up GM Universal Speaker HarnessHEAD UNIT PARTS:-----------------------1 @ Scosche GM02B Mini Connector Set for 1988-Up GM1 @ Dual XHD7714 In-Dash CD/MP3 Player with Remote, Built-in Bluetooth, HD Radio, iPod Cable, and 3.5mm Aux Input1 @ Scosche GM1483B 1995-02 General Motors 1500 Series Full Size DIN/ISO Truck Kit1 @ Genuine GM pocket #15958735 (to replace where factory cassette tape desk was located)FACTORY AMP BYPASS PARTS:--------------------------1 @ Metra 70-2002 GM Radio Wiring Harness (B0002BESFA)1 @ Metra 71-2002 GM Reverse Wiring Harness (B0002BESPA)

For under $100 category, this component set rocks! I'm running them on a Soundstream amp so each woofer/tweeter pair gets 100 wrms and the amp highpass crossover is set to 80Hz.These handle the power well but probably shouldn't be pushed by much more as they do distort at high volume if the highpass crossover on my amp isnt - the woofers simply cannot handle that much power being fed to them with lower bass notes.With the crossover on the amp set they can play VERY loud and clear. However, the tweeters are overpowered with the wattage the amp pushes, causing them to seem harsh after 50% volume. Thankfully my JVC in dash headunit has a built in parametric equalizer. I had to dial the treble back -6db set at 10Hz to keep the tweeters in check. They are mounted in the top of the door panels - so installs with tweeters lower may not need as much cutting of the high frequencies.The woofers needed some break in time. They sound even better with midbass/mids now then initially. With the tweeters in check, the system now sounds very dynamic/lively yet warm with crystal clarity. Compared to the JBL factory system in the 2007 Highlander, this system sounds amazing. We hear every deatil in the songs now!These are aided by a subwoofer in our install to fill in the sub 80Hz range. If you don't have a subwoofer, these will do okay down to about 40Hz as long as not pushed too hard. They don't have the excursion ability to handle lower notes pushed by a powerful amp.I took a star away for the woofer's struggle with bass below 80Hz when passed 50% volume and the lack of adjustable crossover for the tweeters. For a little more money other brands offer crossovers with adjustable treble gain to tweak the tweeter output depending on install location.