Brownell Acraglas Gel [Misc.]

Used product in the past. Sometimes hard to find in stock. It does improve accuracy

I used it to bed a rifle. I like the fact that it is a gel and is not runny. Because it is a gel, I need to use a small brush to apply a thin coat on the surfaces before I put the bulk of it onto the stock -- this helps the gel to reach where it is supposed to be. This is exactly how I like to apply epoxy anyway.The instruction asks us not to add too much color to the mix because the cured product will be darker than it was before it was cured. I ended up overdoing the "adding little color" part. And I added a bit too little color and the color of the cured material is a bit too light (light brown instead of medium brown). This means that this is hard to get the brown color just right. If someone needs to get the color exact right, he will need to do multiple color test samples and use a small scale to measure the mix and the color powder. For my application, there is no need to be that exact. Therefore, I simply accept the result as is. If I could do this again, I would have added enough color to the uncured mix to match as close to the wood stock color as possible. Let it darker a little when it cured. A darker bedding color is better than a lighter color. The reason is that the gun metal is blued and is darker than the wood stock and the bedding anyway. A slightly darker bedding will not be noticeable. On the other hand, a lighter color bedding between darker stock color and the blued material will be more noticeable than otherwise. Either way, the difference is small.The instruction asks us to mix the hardener by volume instead of by weight. I am a bit apprehensive about this because I almost always mix epoxy by weight, and the ratio of hardener vs resin is supposed to require exact measurement for epoxy to cure correctly. Luckily the mix cured just fine even though I didn't really measure that well by volume. I hope the manufacturer can give us a way to measure by weight in addition to measure by volume.Yes, the product comes with enough materials to bed 2 rifles. So far I have only used 1/2 of the material and is enough for one rifle (bedding is from the receiver area all the way to the rear, not bedding most of the barrel). If you need to bed the entire rifle including the barrel area, you may need to use 3/4 box of material or the entire box.

No better product available. Easy application for bedding and repair. Comes with both black and brown dye for repairs. Dries hard and files and sand well.

Been using this stuff for many years.Does what it is made to do.Being a jel, it stays were it is supposed to, does not run

Old stock. Opened the container and it was like sand.

This product works fairly well and a lot of people I talked to use it so it must be dependable. The one issue I had with it is that you can't avoid getting bubbles in the resin. I used it three different times and after every use could notice small bubbles in the set resin. The set resin is easy to get out, if you make a mistake and need to touch up, with a sharp chisel. It is easy to use but somewhat messy so use gloves when doing so. Make sure you use putty or play dough to block screw holes or even in the small crack between the barrel and the barrel lock nut if space exists. This will not only make separation easier but it will help avoid cracks in the resin due to separation. Trust me, USE PUTTY!

I used this a little differently then most. I have a 1899 winchester 1892 that had a extremely loose fitting stock that also had some cracks. First I used this to fill the voids between the stock and the tang. This worked great. Now the stock fits very tight. Couldn't be happier. Next I removed the butt plate and removed some wood creating a cavity down the middle. I drilled several small holes all around the butt plate area. I then added the bedding material and reattached the butt plate. This helped squeeze the bedding material into the holes and cavity. This really seemed to give it some strength. Best part is you can't tell by looking at it that repairs were done. The release agent worked OK but would probably try a different method next time.

This stuff has many uses and I have used it for not only accurizing rifles, but for repairing door frames, table tops, nail holes in flooring and in one case repairing a street number sign on a friends house. But, be careful because once this stuff is on something, it is NOT coming off. In cases where release agent is recommended, use the release agent!