10Pcs 4mm Banana Plugs Solder DIY Banana Plug Connectors Adapters for Multimeter Test Leads Probes

Great quality banana plugs so far. They seem to take up to AWG 14 sized wire. They are solder plugs, not crimp, and require quite a bit of force to snap together. Key point is that they plastic jacket and strain relief needs to be threaded on the wire FIRST! Here is what I did: 1. Thread jacket on wire 2. Strip small amount of wire 3. Flux the exposed wire 4. Pre-tin the solder cup on the plug 5. Mate the wire and plug 6. Solder 7. Grab the jacket with pliers and push DOWN into the plug (on a piece of scrap wood) You should feel a noticeable "click" when it is fully mated and seated properly. The resulting plug feels very solid. Just dont forget to use a piece of wood, as you can see in the last photo the amput of pressure let divots! (Ok, it is a piece of Fir, so it is soft wood to begin with, but still... You get the point.) Enjoy!

Great plugs. Arrived quickly. Fit like they are supposed to. One review said to heat up the plastic to get onto the metal so I will try some boiling water when I assemble them.

These standard banana plugs are just what you think they are. They are NOT Pomona quality of course, but they get the job done for bench work and are reasonably easy to solder. The jacks fit snugly in my vintage U.S. built test equipment just fine (i.e. HP, Tektronix, Sprague, etc. They come disassembled and ready to solder, and they fit standard thick silicone test lead setups. The solder pocket is fairly easy to heat up. I used the notches in my Vacu-Vise to hold them while I soldered them, and thanks to the rotating spring ends, this didn't transfer too much heat out of the end and into the vise jaws, which made soldering with a Weller PES51 very easy. The spring ends rotate freely and don't foul with solder when you do them right. The color coded insulating sheaths fit nice and snug, and standard thick jacket silicone wire fits in them just right. Don't forget to put your jacket on before you solder! :-) TIP: If you have too many LONGER banana test leads, consider getting a set of these and spliting your LONGER leads into two shorter versions. I split a standard 3 foot length five pack in matching colors into 1 foot and 2 foot versions. That worked out well, as I ended up with five 1' and five 2', each with a piggyback plug on at least one end. It is a slight negative that these are not piggyback capable jacks, but for this price point I get it. Fours stars because they're not U.S. made Pomona, and I have to save that extra star for the best in the business! Handy solderable ends get the job done with a minimum of fuss.

Great set. Currently using continuous @ 6V 1-3A in an electrolysis tank. Despite limited exposure to solution & continuous 8 hour a day usage, has held up perfect. Note that you need to solder & crimp these. That being said, solid option if your comfortable with that.

Plug was a little short for MFJ binding posts, but worked on others, and OK for multimeters.

Heat Gun Required-Outstanding Plugs. The solder on fitting is one of the best configurations I've used. Soldering the connection is a breeze. The plastic insulating jackets, as most point out, are stiff, not very pliable at all. As a result you either have to grip the metal plug and press the jacket on (potentially damaging the metal plug) OR use a heat gun. With about 30 seconds under the heat gun, they pop right on.

These have a great fit and finish and make an excellent connection. The pin can swivel in the jacket, which is a nice touch. The only drawback is that they are a little difficult to assemble until you figure out all the tricks (which I gleaned from a couple other reviews here). Slide the jacket over the wire first. Strip the wire just enough that the exposed conductor is the same length as the "solder cup" in the plug. Tin it. Tin the "solder cup" in the plug. Be patient, it takes a LOT of heat to get the solder to bond to the pin. Feed the wire in and solder the exposed conductor to the pin, filling the solder cup with solder. Again, be patient as this takes a lot of heat. I was using silicone jacketed wire, so I wasn't too worried about how hot the wire got. Once soldered, you will find it seemingly impossible to slide the jacket over the pin. The trick is to heat the jacket a little bit with a heat gun. Just a few seconds with a crafting heat gun on the lower setting was all it took for me. Don't pull the wires to seat the pin in the jacket. Although the solder connection is very strong, you don't want to tug on the wire hard enough to snap the pin into the jacket. Instead, holding the jacket, press the tip of the pin against something that gives a little, like wood. It should give a satisfying snap. If it still refuses to go in, try heating the jacket a little more. Once assembled, these are great.

Other reviewers complained about the tight fit of the cover. I gripped the cover with pliers and pressed until it snapped on the metal plug. I'm not a particular strong person. I liked that it was a tight fit. Soldered wire to the plug and measured only miliohm resistance. The plug fit snugly into my Fluke multimeter. Seems like a good product.