WINSINN 3D Printer Extruder, Works with Creality Ender 3 V2 Upgrades Aluminum RepRap Prusa i3 for MK8 Drive - Black

Works better than stock and MUCH less hassle than the full geared drives I have. I grew so tired of the time and effort to change the filament with my full geared drives and this loads easily like the stock drive only with two drive gears. You have to change the e-steps as the drive is a little smaller than stock. Being a little smaller diameter is nice as it adds a little torque to help push the filament through the printer. I have the CR-10 S4 and had to change the extruder e-steps from 100 to 139. Was very easy to update the firmware now that Creality is posting the firmware on their website. Look under configuration around line 589 and change the 100 to 139 and upload to the printer. Also moved the extruder from the printer frame to the control box as I noticed putting pressure on the x-axis track was trowing the two z-axis motors / rods out of sync. Some have complained of the finish of the drive but all three of the drives I got were very nice. Now using these on a Creality and a Tevo.On a side note; There are no instructions but it did come with all the correct screws and the yellow/orange spring does fit exactly on mine. I did have to put a bit of loctite on the set screw in the stepper gear. There is only one set screw in the gear, it is very short and has a tenancy to back out every few hours or printing. Very happy with them so far.Note; for the tevo tarantula I changed the extruder e-steps from 100 to 138. I am using the updated Merlin firmware in the tevo. The changes are 'around' the following lines ( I removed and added some settings so your actual lines numbers will be close but not exactly the same as mine)...984 #if ENABLED(DUAL_EXTRUDER)985 #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, Z_STEPS, 138, 94 } // change from 100 to 138 for dual gear extruder drive986 #else987 #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, Z_STEPS, 138 }988 #endifHope this helps...March 2021 update;Been using three of these for a few years of HEAVY use and still love them. I have looked at a few other reviews that complain of the DRIVEN gear self destructing. Some things to consider… the DRIVEN gear is FIXED in place (no adjustment) and the bearing rides on a threaded screw (not ideal). You HAVE to leave the DRIVE (motor) gear loose and put a piece of filament between the gears to align the DRIVE (motor) gear to match the DRIVEN gear. Make sure the DRIVEN gear is centered on its axle before you LOCTITE the set screw on the DRIVE (motor) gear. If you do not do this, the DRIVEN gear will rub on the frame like the ones in the other reviews. Also, DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN the DRIVEN gear axle screw. You WILL bend the frame and squeeze the DRIVEN gear. ONLY SNUG the axle screw LIGHTLY and LOCTITE it! After dozens and dozens of rolls of filament I’ve not had any problems. Even had excellent results with NijaFlex.To the manufacturer…. PLEASE change out the threaded screw you are using for the DRIVEN gear axle with a proper screw with a shoulder for the bearing to roll on. I’ve not had a failure yet but that is the only weak link in an otherwise great design.UPDATE 01/29/22Just ordered my SIXTH for a new Ender 3 MAX. Still have the original one I bought in 2018 and after dozens and dozens of rolls of filament is shows no sign of wear.I cannot stress enough... YOU MUST PERFECTLY ALIGN THE GEAR THAT MOUNTS ON THE STEPPER MOTOR !!Leave the stepper motor gear (DRIVE GEAR) loose. Put a short piece of filament between the gears to help align the gear. THEN LOCTITE and tighten the set screw.The gear on the arm is NOT adjustable and will rub, wear and fail if the stepper motor gear is not PERFECTLY aligned.Other than that;All the parts I have received over the years all fit and were correct.The latest one (01/29/22) now has a NON-threaded spring tension collar that looks custom made as opposed to the RIVNUT the older ones used. Both work but the new collar looks nicer.This newest one also has the M3 screw pictured that is NOT threaded all the way so the bearing does not have to ride on the screw threads.Had great luck running NinjaFlex with these.

UPDATE: I have installed this on two printers. I really like the gripping power of the filament. THE NEGATIVE: Despite all the mods prior to installation you really need to have the idler gear "FREE FLOAT" in the tension arm or it will grind. The picture with the two washers shows you want the gear will do actual steel vs the aluminum of the arm when it is driven down. I replaced the washer, cleaned up everything and made the following adjustments. 1) Moved the drive gear to the top of the motor shaft 2) no longer add tension to the spring with tension screw, just let it set on the weakest setting. No issues encountered so far... and I print a lot.I was using a Titan extruder clone prior to buying this one, but I was not too impressed since I had to crank the spring up like crazy and still ended up slipping at times.This extruder uses two hobbed gears to drive the filament vs the one one on the Titan. I like to read the "bad" reviews to see if there are any common issues with products. Once I received the extruder it looked like the common issue of having the idler gear grind into the idler arms was addressed by beveling the gear. I think this was the most common gripe. However, I have some long running prints, so I didn't want to take any chances. I quickly determined that the extruder just used common anodizing, which makes it pretty red, but it does not improve the hardness (compared to hard coat anodizing). Therefore I trimmed the idler gear by 0.017" off the gear side and added a washer. I also opted to polish the top and the bottom of the idler gear to eliminate any unnecessary friction. Lastly, I grabbed a M3 screw with a smooth shank to replace the fully threaded screw. Unfortunately, I didn't have one of the exactly the right size, so I trimmed a longer one to length and cut the head off and added a slit for a flat head screw driver. A dremmel with a cutoff wheel made quick work of it. I used locktite red on the screw to hold it all in place for the foreseeable future.Installation:Installation was quite painless. One thing you want to pay attention to is that you don't want to drive the idler gear up or down into the arm. So before you tighten the motor gear down (and add locktite blue) you want to look through the hole for the bowden tube and make sure that the hobbed gears are aligned. the should look like this: (o) In essence, you want them at the same height. Last but not least I added a drop of super high viscosity oil to the idler arm for added insurance.So far everything is looking great. Compared to the titan, there are no filament flakes on the extruder. Should something change, I'll update this review.P.S. What i called idler gear, should probably be called the 'passive' gear, since it is not driven by the motor.