NuFun Activities Inkjet Printable Iron-On Heat Transfer for Dark Fabrics, 8.5 x 11 inch, (25 Sheets) Make your own custom T-Shirt
Item model number | DFT |
ASIN | B01HQR7G9W |
E**O
Calidad
Mala calidad,muy delgadas y se lastiman a la primera lavada
L**E
I am so impressed!
I purchased this a few months ago and just now got around to trying it out. I have been sublimating shirts for a few months but I have issues with only being able to sublimate well on VERY light colored (mostly white) shirts that are mostly polyester. I wanted to be able to iron-on to dark fabrics and not just poly (I purchased Siser EasySubli to be able to do this and while it works, it is much more expensive AND very easy to mess up with fingerprints). After reading SOOOOO many reviews on printable iron-on transfers I decided to give this one a try. If it didn't work it wasn't too much money down the toilet. I wanted to make a professional team logo shirt for my daughter on a black t-shirt. The primary colors were red with black and a bit of a white outline. I made the design in photoshop and uploaded it to Cricut Design Space and printed and cut it out using the Cricut Maker. I put the settings on "Light cardstock" because I wanted it to cut through the sheet and it worked. Do not flip or mirror the image as you would sublimation. The back peeled off very easy, although I would recommend taking care to not over-pull on it or it could possibly rip or wrinkle your design. I used a Cricut EasyPress (on a Cricut EasyPress mat, even though another reviewer said not to use the mat), and pressed at 365 degrees for about 90 seconds. One tutorial said to do it for 2 minutes, but I think that's if you use a regular iron. Honestly, the 90 seconds may have been overkill. HOWEVER, when I pulled the parchment off I couldn't believe what I was seeing! It looked like a professionally done T-shirt! The reason I say that 90 seconds may be too long is because the t-shirt color (black) is kind of seeping through the printed image. For what I was making, it gives it that old-style classic team look and was fantastic for this particular shirt! I immediately ran up two flights of stairs to show my husband and 11 year old daughter and my husband even said, "Did you sublimate that?" I said no and he said, "That looks like one we would pay $20 or more for at the ballpark!" Of course this is only my first project and I haven't seen what it would do on a shirt where I don't want the old style look. And the next one I do I will probably only press at 350 degrees for a minute. The shirt I used was 60/40 cotton poly blend. That may have also made a difference in the shirt color seepage since it isn't 100% cotton. Looking forward to trying out more and seeing how many washes this holds up. When rubbing over it, it feels like it has adhered well to the fabric. I will turn it inside out as suggested when I wash it. I only spent a grand total of $4 making this shirt! Definitely worth it. I would post pics but since it's for a professional team I'm not going to. Maybe my next shirt I will! Based on this first shirt, I would highly recommend using this brand! I've used others without any good results, especially long-term. I also use HTV but when doing multiple colors that is a little more time consuming. I would say that this is so far the easiest iron-on I've ever worked with (including sublimation).
M**D
Ok, but not the best.
This is great paper to print for customized heat transfer products.Pros:Easy to useEasy to print onAdhered nicely (I used a heat press)Good priceCons:Black bleeds - I found with some of my images that had a lot of black, the black bleeds over. I also have Avery paper and it didn’t bleed so I can only determine it’s the paper. I tried multiple settings with the nufun but even on draft it bled the edges. I also had another image that had black that didn’t bleed so I don’t know if that one was printing more of a gray than a black and that’s why it didn’t bleed. Unable to determine the cause I had to go with the Avery paper for my projects involving a lot of black.I haven’t washed the shirts yet to know how they will hold up in the wash but will maybe remember to update this review when I do!I would definitely continue to use the nufun on items that don’t matter as much if they were exactly precise on the edges or if it didn’t involved much if any black printing. As it is a good value for the money.In the side by side photo you can see the Avery on the left with very precise printing and the nufun on the right with the bleeding particularly around where the bow meets the black but also the entire edge - the edge isn’t as big of deal because I can cut that off but the part in the center is the image cannot be fixed that way. The nufun also didn’t pop as much upon printing but I feel like it still looked pretty decent once it was ironed on.The Maui photo is another example of the bleeding.The 2019 photo shows when the black didn’t bleed over. I truly do not know what makes the difference which is why I would likely continue to use the nufun for some projects.
D**0
BEWARE - ONLY good for 1 use.
This “Iron-on Heat Transfer Paper” is a complete disaster. I have been a Pre-kindergarten & Kindergarten teacher for over 20+ years.Every year our students are allowed only one “Field Trip”. Since we live in South Texas, most of the schools choose to take advantage of having a decent Zoo close by. Many times the ZOO is filled with students from other campuses. By assigning different color of t-shirts to each class, we have a better control of keeping track of our students.This year I thought I would make an investment that would last me a couple of years by making my own shirts and using this “Iron-on Heat Transfer Paper”. I went ahead and spent over $100 in buying NEW shirts and a pack of 25 “Iron-on Heat Transfer Paper”. Another teacher and I decided to invest on these “Iron-on Heat Transfer Paper” for our students.We both used HP Color LASER printers for this “Iron-on Heat Transfer Paper”. As you can see from the first 2 pictures, the transfer paper worked pretty decent. The only problem I encountered was removing the protection paper from the “Iron-on Heat Transfer Paper”. Since I clip my nails too short, I had a lot of problems separating them both.Results were amazing. The kids enjoyed wearing their own creative t-shirts. At this time, I thought I had made a wise investment. I thought I would be able to use these t-shirts for at least 5 years.However, the problem did not come apparent until I washed the t-shirts the following day after the field trip. Honestly, I wanted to cry when I saw the results. I spent over $100 on new shirts and unfortunately, I will not be able to use the same shirts next year. The “Iron-on Heat Transfer Paper” FADES horribly after washing. As you can see from the pictures, the “Iron-on Heat Transfer Paper” fades horribly.Regrettably, the other teacher had the same experience with this “Iron-on Heat Transfer Paper” when she washed her t-shirts. The manufacturer SHOULD warn people that this “Iron-on Heat Transfer Paper” CAN’T be applied to items that NEED to be washed.Please spend your money on something else unless you are NOT planning on washing these “Iron-on Heat Transfer Paper” EVER.Please save your money on something else.
S**E
Great for 100% poly DIY sports uniforms - just use low heat
I created some custom Star Trek uniforms for my 16U girl softball team and after a lot of research came upon this as being the best option for numbers and lettering on the back of the jersey. The base shirt was a ladies A4 performance tee that is 100% poly. I created a template using MS Word to print the letters and numbers with just an outline on the inkjet printer, and then use an exacto knife with a metal edge and sharp scissors to cut out each number and letter. I put a pillow case over a wood board, and then the shirt. After removing the backing (which can be a bit tricky) and manual placement of letters and numbers I used an iron on it's lowest setting for about 20 seconds.I highly recommend you experiment first on a similar shirt or buy an extra one to experiment on. My first attempt following the instruction was much too hot and the yellow of the jersey bled through very clearly. After then experimenting on an old jersey I figured out the low heat setting, and fixed the first jersey by applying a second layer on top of the first one.The result is great and pretty indistinguishable from what I get from the uniform shops, you just need to make sure you are cutting away all of the printed lines as those will show up. This was a one time use thing, but it certainly appears that the transfer would survive a lot of washings.I created the starfleet badge on the front using heat transfer vinyl (HTV) you can buy in sheets from an EBay vendor. Those also turned out great.
Trustpilot
1 week ago
1 month ago