CerAnode Expandable-Spring Powered Water Heater Anode Rod (20-100 gal tank)

I should start with the make and model of our water heater. It is a Richmond 6GR50PVE2-42 50 gallon power vent water heater. Because our water heater has a dedicated port for an anode, this installation was nice and easy and we didn't require any brass Ts to install it. So far so good. Installation was easy.First, I shut off the gas, unplugged the power, and shut the fill ball valve to the water heater. Then I opened a hot water tap to allow air to pass into the system and drained a little bit of water out of the water heater.The hardest part was removing the old anode because the space above my water heater didn't allow for the full length of removal. I grabbed the anode with a 10" vise grip to keep it from falling down inside, and I had to make 2 cuts with a hacksaw above the vise grip to get it out. Once it was out, the port for the anode had some grit on the threads from the magnesium anode rod, so I cleaned them good with a rag.I measured the (mostly intact) magnesium anode lengths I removed from our Richmond at 43 1/2". I stretched the coil on the powered anode to the same length (including the insulating weight at the end of the coil) and installed it.Next, I drained the water heater to eliminate sediment. I should also note that while it was draining, I installed a fresh di-electric union on the cold water supply because the top of the galvanized steel fitting that attached to the di-electric nipple was starting to corrode shut. The hot water supply port on the di-electric union was fine.The warranty on the paperwork that comes with the powered anode is for 7 years. If we get another 7 years out of this water heater, we'll be pretty happy.*update* on 07/11/2019 we got a letter in the mail that was dated May 24, 2019 notifying us that the powered anode output may have been set too low. I checked it and it was drawing 2 volts DC, but it was only putting out 5mV DC to the anode. The mV output in the letter stated it should be adjusted via the brass screw to between 48 and 52mV. I adjusted it to 48mV according to the instructions, and it was then drawing 6.32V.

Not a job for average homeowner. I needed an impact wrench to get the old anode out. Included pipe nipples and adapters needed for installation we're included but you need pipe dope to prevent leaks. I had to get some as Teflon tape didn't work, leaked.Anode and power supply looks well made, I'm happy with that. I'll add more to this review if the smell and black water are cured.

[Value Review] I bought this because our water heaters were eating up magnesium anode rods at the rate of 1 rod every 18-24 months. Likely this is due to our keeping the water fairly softened. It's not that expensive to change out the traditional anode rod, but this water heater has the rod integrated with the outlet port making the cost about $50-60. It is a hassle to remember to change it out and it is inconvenient to have to remove/install the new one and make sure it does not leak.I have liked the concept of Impressed Current Rods (Power Anode Rods) since studying the theory behind them in Materials Science class. When designed, installed and operated properly, they really do perform their function well and extend the service life of the water heater. If I have to replace this water heater for some reason, I like that I can easily port this anode over to the new water heater. I gave this 4 stars for value because it is about $225 compared to ~$100 for non-outlet integrated versions.[Installation Review] Installation was relatively easy after I bought all the additional brass fittings needed for my particular install. I had to do a bit of research to determine what metal to select for those parts so I would not create other galvanic corrosion problems. You can see in my pictures all parts that I bought were brass or plastic lined. The directions did specify plastic lined dielectric unions (connecting the brass T to the water heater). The Stainless Steal flex hose is plastic lined. Pipe dope as thread seal proved superior to prevent leaks compared to teflon tape (just does not work with this size thread). I'm a engineer and a DIY-er (but not a plumber). With that, I will say the instructions were simple enough and I found the installation easy. I did have to cut the copper header plumbing shorter to adjust for the change in span. This is due to having to buy parts for and create a T installation. These parts are not part of the kit they sell you. If you are buying this CerAnode for a "hot-out Anode", take your time and measure all your connections (e.g. existing union outer diameter, outlet plumbing). The Amazon listing for this does provide useful measurement guides, but do double-check by measuring your plumbing yourself. Because I'm not plumber, I did pay my heating/cooling/plumbing company to double check my work as part of a periodic HVAC tune-up. The tech said going with a powered anode was the way to go versus replacing every other year. I gave only 4-stars for installation, even though it went smoothly for me, because I'm not sure non-Do-It-Yourselfers might feel a little apprehensive about how tight to tighten and how to get the T lined up with header plumbing. NOTE: for reasons given in my Performance Review, definitely fill out the registration card![Removal Review] I've not had to do this, but it is as simple as unscrewing the connections. The might damage the dielectric union, but I would always buy a new one for each install.[Performance Review] Technically, I feel I would need to wait to see how long it takes this water heater to fail for reasons of a corrosion to the steel tank. That could take many years if this device works like it should. If this happens in the next two years (water heater is currently 5 yrs old and just out of warranty), I will update this post. I can comment on one issue I was alerted to by CerAnode. It turns out the factory that puts these together did not turn the power that is applied up high enough on "some of the units". The instructions to check and monitor this are attached in my photos. My voltage was turned down to 2mV when it is supposed to be 48-52mV. Determining the as-found voltage and correcting it was super simple if you have a digital multi-meter. If you do purchase one of these, do follow the instructions in the photo I attached and check your unit AFTER you install it in a full water heater and power it up. I plan to periodically re-check the voltage to make sure it does not drift out of range. I can't give any stars for performance of the device since I have no way of measuring active corrosion in the water heater and have not had a tank failure. But, I would give the company 5-stars for proactively contacting customers. Honestly, I don’t remember filling out a registration card, so they must have reached out to every customer on file with devices from the effected batches. Additionally, the company explained what happened, the impact of the problem to a water heater’s integrity and provided mitigation and remediation instructions which were very clear, simple and able to be done with mostly typical household tools (assuming you have access to a volt meter, or someone who does).

I like that it easy to install. I don’t like that it has a constant beeping noise. I think it’s malfunctioning. Also my water has a metal smell to it.

I switched from a gas to an electric water heater. I live in the country and have well water. When I switched we started having a smell to our water. After switching to this anode the smell was gone. It was easy to install. The only hard part was unscrewing the original one out of the water heater. After that it was a breeze to install ourselves. You do have to keep it plugged in in order for it to work. Even though I thought it was a bit expensive, it was well worth the cost.