Dasher Deals Billet Aluminum Latch Pivot for First Gen Tacoma Tundra Rear Quarter Window (Pair)

I wanted to share my installation experience in hopes I can save some folks from making the same mistakes I made. I own a 2004 Tacoma. Starting on the passenger side window, removing the old latch pivot went quite smoothly. Thank you to those that recommended lubing/oiling the pins. They slid out with minimal effort. Unfortunately, in my haste to complete the job, I didn't make sure that my pins fit inside the predrilled holes of the new latch pivot. I was able to install the pin on the truck side of the latch with relative ease (and a lot of oil) and it was a solid fit. Unfortunately, the hole on the window side was too small. No amount of hammering was going to make the pin fit. Due to the solid fit, I could not get the pin I just installed back out so I was unable to remove the latch pivot completely to drill out the hole. My drill was too big in a limited amount of space to get a direct bead to bore out the hole. However, after some crafty angle drilling (and a fair amount of cussing), I was able to get the pin installed. Learning from my mistakes, the driver's side window pivot took less then 5 minutes to remove and install.There's an old adage that goes something along the lines of "measure twice, cut once". That holds true in this case as well. Lubing the pins will make getting them in and out easier. Double check and make sure your pins fit into the predrilled holes of the new latch pivot before installing. Doing both will save you a lot of time and blood pressure medication. :o)Overall, the product is simple and solid. Both of my pieces had to be bored out on the window latch side. I don't know if there is a difference in pin size between the Tacoma and Tundra, but the holes on the window side of the latch were consistently about 1/16 inch too small.

I bought two latch pivots for a 2003 Toyota Tundra access cab rear side windows. After minor alterations of both pivots, they installed fairly quickly and without great difficulty.It only makes sense NOT to use a plastic latch pivot again, as it will only break again. [My first broke about a year after buying the truck. The second broke about 3 years ago.]Thanks to Dasher Deals for making and/or acquiring the aluminum pivots for the earlier model Toyota Tundras!Thanks to YouTube video .... here is what I did (for those who care!!):1) Remove the screw from the latch that attaches to the glass window.2) Spray the center pin (that holds the pivot) of that latch piece with WD40.3) Using a 5/32" punch & hammer, remove that pin from the latch. While you are at it, remove the pin from the part of the latch that remains attached to the inner door frame. Also use WD40 to help in the process. I removed the pin from the 'underside', causing the pin to be freed at the top! I don't really know if this direction of approach matters! (It was suggested in the video I watched.) Don't lose the pins ... they will be re-used with the new latch pivot!4) Drill both holes on the latch pivot piece to make them slightly bigger to better accomodate the pins. An 11/64" drill bit works fine.5) With the latch piece that had been screwed to the window ..... Hammer the pin through the latch and new pivot piece. (Use WD40 as an aid.) The hole near the 'outward protrusion' is used with this latch piece. The positioning of the pivot piece is such that the convex surface faces you and not the window!6) Screw the (completed) latch piece with pivot back into the window.7) Extend the latch pivot so that it can be placed within the latch piece that remains on the door frame. Hammer the pin through the latch piece and pivot. (Use WD40 as an aid.)Obviously be careful not to break either the old latch pieces or the glass!! Hopefully all goes well and you're Done!

Awesome replacement for the OEMs that broke years ago!Having read some of the reviews, I was concerned about the fit and difficulty in replacing them without damaging the latch itself. It was no problem!Couple of tips:1) As suggested by another reviewer, don't take the whole door panel off. Pop the top rear corner and a couple of clips down the side and across the top. Wedge something in there, and use a box end wrench to remove the 2 bolts.2) Since the old pivot is likely broken on the "handle" end... bust it off there. Now that you can access the middle of the pin, use a pair of small pliers to squeeze/rotate/push the pin out of that handle.This prevents having to drive the pin out, with the handle taking some of the impact.3) When replacing the shorter of the pins (in the window end of the new pivot), clamp the new aluminum piece in a vice, and tap the new pin into place. This will prevent stress on the plastic part as you push the pin into the new latch pivot.

I lke that these are made in USA, however they did not come with new roll pins. I was disappointed at first, but after seeing how robust the stock ones were, I felt ok about it. I used a screw, socket and channel locks to gently press out the old roll pin and a similar approach (less screw and socket) to press it back together. I actually removed the latch from the window to do the otherside of it. One big negative: i found these to be too short. Yes, they are exactly stock length (I think, from how I measured them; I work at a CNC machine shop), however replacements really should be .030-.050" longer, hole to hole. Used as is, I found that my windows were not tight feeling when fully latched. So I took the first one back out and used a 2 ton press to straighten one out a little. Note that its a bannana shape ---- I made it less of a curved banana by a little and the window was notably tighter to latch. I probably should have made them myself. I think these would be great if the design was modified.