Polymaker Fiberon PA6-CF Carbon Fiber Nylon Filament 1.75mm Black 0.5kg, Fiberon PA6-CF Nylon Warp Free 1.75mm 3D Printing Filament

Im printing this out of an Ender 3, with a steel nozzle and an auto leveller and it seems to print well so far. I have experience with PLA and PLA+, this seemed like a good filament to try for parts that need a little more durability/heat resistance and the items do seem more durable that I've printed in other filaments. Cura does not have a preset for this but Ive been having success at the lower end of the recommended temperature ranges. I have the flexible magnetic Creality bed plate and the items peel off easily. I have a limited sample size, but for small parts that dont have to print very tall on the most basic of printers, I like it. I did read somewhere to use a brim with this filament, which is where I've had the worst results, every layer from there has been great, but I have been getting some stringing when the printer is trying to lay down the brim. Im keeping it in a gallon zip-loc with the drying packet it came with between prints, who knows if it helps, but the consistency has been fine.

Exactly what I wanted. I use my A1 mini in an enclosure with a filter to print. Make sure to dry the filament though as it absorbs moisture quickly which is expected with nylon. I use the poly maker filament dryer on high for 18 hours and it does the trick. The warp free technology works very well when printing, I’ve only had a little issue with warping when annealing, but this is very minimal.So far its use for me has been all motorsports related; mostly shock packers and shock travel indicators. It’s held up well and no complaints from the teams.Annealing at 70 degrees Celsius in water for three hours has given me the stiffness properties I was looking for. Then letting it dry out and acclimate to ambient humidity (time is dependent on the size of the part). Annealing time and if it’s annealed in water or annealed dry are dependent on what the part is meant to do. But even without annealing the parts are plenty strong.I haven’t experienced any issues with adhesion to the bed or layer adhesion. And the finish I get is really good.All in all, for a tiny home machine running an engineering filament I’m very impressed.Print Settings:50 degree bed with standard PEI plate290 first three layers285 everything elseMax 30% part cooling on overhangs75mm/s print speed, max I’ve used so far has been 120mm/s with good resultsVolumetric rate of 8.4 hardened steel nozzle.2mm layer height

I wish PET-CF was cheaper so I could afford to use it for more than high temp applications, it prints great. Right out of the box on to the printer, no tuning, just generic PET-CF settings except I lowered the printing temp 10 degrees because of diamond nozzle. I can't say I've had a better print. No stringing, no shrinking(!), no warping, perfect bed adhesion, and excellent detail without a closed chamber. The photo of the bed after the print is out of focus, sorry; but it shows what I was printing. The color balance is off on the others, not my day for photography.

I printed the above image with a stock Kobra Max (260° max nozzle temperature. Although some people suggest it runs hot), 0.8mm nozzle(not a nozzle suggested for small gears)...I have been printing for a well over 5 years and it's not just a side hobby. It's not work but it's an obsession. I've had many printers, I've tried innumerable brands and types of filaments. This is my first favorite. I'm going to write a simple list of why you should buy this filament.By far the strongest filament I have ever used. It's a different kind of strength though. PC FG/cf, peek etc might be stronger in certain ways, But having the same volume as a regular kilogram, yet half the weight, it's just something special. Just a note, the way this filament works is a lot like say porcelain. It's an incredibly strong substance, but if you kind of chip away at it with say a pair of bolt cutters, it'll break easier with scary pieces flying at you.. Kinda like that.Dimensional accuracy is off the charts. You make a hole, the whole will be the size you make it.I only have one printer that prints perfect every time. A toybox printer.. If you know what that is, you'll understand. Anyway, this filament in my Kobra Max, is officially my new most consistent and reliable print. I use Cura to do the "print one at a time" (instead of all at once), and I can have 19 different prints I want done all in that one platform, and it'll just go through one after the other and print them all completely accurate. No more checking every 30 minutes or hour. No need for a camera mounted on it or special failed print sensor...Keep the support material as low density as you can, but when it comes to the support interface and removing this support, it's amazing. The support interface ACTUALLY works...... Really. And once you break off the support which CAN require a lot of strength (ice pick or smaller nozzle size suggested) You're left with a manufacturer quality part. No post-processing necessary.A real quick note, I tried doing the flow reduction for the support material and it ended up failing. I'm sure it's because this material is very thick/.8 nozzle/and printed well below the suggested print temp, But that did fail me. Anyway, I'm sure if you actually have the appropriate setup/settings you'll be fine. Print your support flow to give you ~0.2 mm support line width. Then it should break off super easy, clean and without any excessive strength.Guess that's really all I have to say. Aside from the fact that it also has a really nice texture. Oh, and make sure you use "alternate wall printing direction" or something like that. I'm sure even if you use a smaller nozzle size, there will be a little pull like with metal field or glass filled filaments. You want to make sure it changes direction each layer to avoid that warp and shit. If you use Cura, the newest update has that option in experimental or somewhere at the bottom.This is my summary. I'm using a stock printer, oversized nozzle, and very little is done to try and accommodate this filament suggested print settings. I'm honestly not even sure how it works.But regardless, I'm getting manufacture quality parts. Truly functional.I have every other filament. And although some might have higher strength in certain areas(and usually some disadvantages), but they all require some specialty equipment, tons of work to get it to stick or print clean. High build plate temperatures that waste electricity and often result in warping.And so on and on.And maybe ridiculous for me to say, but I think this is the best filament ever produced...(Aside from basic PLA for prototyping).I just want to know if it comes in 5 kg.

This stuff prints great! No problems on my BL H2D, print came out beautiful.You lose a star here though because of the cardboard spool. It is not good for the automatic material system. Also, I bag my filaments after they are opened in vacuum bags, and suck the air out of them. Cardboard spool do not handle that well and get deformed real quick. The price a customer pays for this stuff, it should include a PLASTIC SPOOL.There is other material just as good from a variety of makers that use plastic, and that is where I will be buying my filament from. If Polymaker ever comes to their senses, I will be back.